|
Matthew Jaggers
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Red River Gorge
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 695
I know this subject is completely subjective based on climbing experience, how much you've climbed outside of your home area, and even where you went outside of your local area. But.... What Crag in your local area has the most accurate grades, based on your OPINION?
My thought for this is that it'd be nice to have a reference point in popular areas to compare to when visiting a new area.
Opinions can change over time and through experience, but mine currently...
Red River Gorge Sandbagged Crag- Chocolate Factory (Bald Rock) Spot on Crags- Solar Collector/Gold Coast (Coal Bank) Soft Crag- Solarium (Miur Valley)
(These are "generally" how they feel to me. Theres a few soft and a few sandbagged in the opposite category, if you know what I mean.)
|
|
Gunkiemike
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,492
While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate.
|
|
Salamanizer Ski
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Off the Grid…
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 18,929
Accurate; Tahquitz, Yosemite and Smith Rock... there’s a few more.
Soft; Auburn, Luther, Owens gorge.
Sandbagged; Lassen Ntl Park, Needles, anything Johnny Woodward.
|
|
Adam Gallimore
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Greensboro
· Joined Mar 2018
· Points: 313
This is for Western North Carolina:
Sandbagged: Looking Glass Rock
Accurate: Ship Rock
Soft: Rumbling Bald
|
|
Kristian Solem
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Monrovia, CA
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 1,055
Gunkiemike wrote: While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate. Yeah, it's hard to argue with the place it all started. Uber soft grades: Red Rocks. I was hangng out in HVCC one time, and two guys walk up and ask me if I'm familiar with the routes around here. "We're looking for some easy twelves." An oxymoron for sure in Josh. I suggested maybe they start on the left ski track and see how it goes. "But that's not a twelve." I suggested they hit up Hot Rocks and see how that goes. "But that's only .11c." "How about Leave it to Beaver?" "We heard that thing's a sandbag." "How about Red Rocks?"
|
|
Mike Stephan
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2017
· Points: 1,188
Stoney Point, CA.
JTNP is also good, but I find it inconsistent. Perhaps this is due to the sheer volume of climbs (both new and old) in the area.
|
|
Zach Harrison
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Flagstaff
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 1,672
Whatever crag is the newest has the softest grades, unless the FAist understand grade creep, climb old routes to recalibrate and have a healthy amount of self disrespect. Old ratings aren’t sandbags, they are accurate.
|
|
Todd Berlier
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Sacramento, CA
· Joined Feb 2018
· Points: 553
Salamanizer suchoski wrote: Accurate; Tahquitz, Yosemite and Smith Rock... there’s a few more.
Soft; Auburn, Luther, Owens gorge.
Sandbagged; Lassen Ntl Park, Needles, anything Jonny Woodward.
FTFY :)
|
|
Ivan Cross
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Flagstaff
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 198
If you can do it, it's 5.8. If you cant do it it's 5.12. End of story.
|
|
Matthew Jaggers
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Red River Gorge
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 695
|
|
Not MP Admin
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
The OASIS
· Joined Nov 2018
· Points: 17
Ma Ja wrote: Any NRGers out there? RRG: soft grades NRG: not soft grades
|
|
J Verg
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Idyllwild, CA
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 95
Gunkiemike wrote: While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate. This. It’s the logical answer.
|
|
Farzin
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
San Diego, CA
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 85
Any crag that use the most digits and scientific notation would be the most accurate.
|
|
Suburban Roadside
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Abovetraffic on Hudson
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 2,419
thinkin? oH;' never mind, kinda' a masturbatory pursuit -
Considering that all grading of rock climbing is relative /subjective
& very dependant on the individual strengths & weaknesses of the people doing the climbing. As well as who & when the grade was given to whichever variation was climbed at the time. It also matters whether or not that the eventual graded line, is the same as the variation now climbed& given the grade. (which is still a different line from how it was originally accended, especially with certain types of rock like ~"Kitty-Litter-quality"~"Monzonite" )
You really do not understand what the number grades mean in relation to climbing . . . . They are meant to give one a rough idea as to the comparative difficulty of the climbing based on a comparative, amorphous & ephemeral changing scale.
& in the big picture ~ you are completely missing the point . . .
Enjoy the journey . . .
& Chris Duca Said Stoney Ridge in Pennciletucky! is it legal >Again>? . <<*>>> Re-Open/Free That Black Ridge! (I need to get a scanner)
|
|
Chris Duca
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Dixfield, ME
· Joined Dec 2006
· Points: 2,330
Spiders’ Web, NY—accurate Index, WA—stout Stoney Ridge, PA—stout Exit 38(Nevermind Wall), WA—soft
|
|
jessie briggs
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
NH
· Joined Oct 2016
· Points: 636
Acadia:soft NoCo: accurate Whitehorse:terrifying
|
|
Tradgic Yogurt
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2016
· Points: 55
A few months ago, I overheard a gumbie at Movement talking about how a V4 on the Warmup wall at Hueco, over on East Mountain, was really hard for the grade...
|
|
Rob WardenSpaceLizard
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
las Vegans, the cosmic void
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 130
James W wrote: "Red Rock is the most accurate", says my fragile ego. Red rock from 1986 is pretty hard
|
|
Dan Cooksey
·
Feb 11, 2020
·
Pink Ford Thunderbird
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 365
Accurate - any crag where I flash every route I try.
Sandbagged - any crag where I do not.
|
|
Zachary K
·
Feb 12, 2020
·
Leavenworth, WA
· Joined Aug 2017
· Points: 3,293
The most accurate crag is the one that is most consistent. I don't mind when a crag is softer or more sandbagged than another. But when the 5.10 route is harder than the 5.11a right next to it, the grades become completely meaningless.
|
|
climber pat
·
Feb 12, 2020
·
Las Cruces NM
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 286
Zach Harrison wrote: Whatever crag is the newest has the softest grades, unless the FAist understand grade creep, climb old routes to recalibrate and have a healthy amount of self disrespect. Old ratings aren’t sandbags, they are accurate. So true. In my local area old 5.7 are called 5.9: 5.8 are being regrading 5.10. and by old I mean these routes have been around since the early 1970s or earlier put up wearing boots and pitons.
|