DIY cable draws
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It's wet here so I've been looking into goofy ideas. I'm wondering how feasible making DIY cable draws are with swaging tools, galvanized steel cable, etc. |
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The majority of available galv wire rope has become a poorly galvanized imported version of the good stuff available in years past. Aluminum swage ovals are not compatible with galv wire rope. Copper ovals are needed. |
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So the answear is... sort of... i |
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Is this for fixed draws on long multi pitch sport climbing because that seems unusual? |
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It would be for multi pitch rap anchors. In the desert webbing gets blasted by UV all year, and it's easy to go through a cordalette or two replacing rap anchors on a 8-15 pitch route. A lot of routes don't get climbed enough to always have fresh tat so I thought making cable draws might be a nice solution. Currently the solution is hauling chain up or factory made cable draws for permanent rap anchors. |
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EJN wrote: It would be for multi pitch rap anchors. In the desert webbing gets blasted by UV all year, and it's easy to go through a cordalette or two replacing rap anchors on a 8-15 pitch route. A lot of routes don't get climbed enough to always have fresh tat so I thought making cable draws might be a nice solution. Currently the solution is hauling chain up or factory made cable draws for permanent rap anchors. Maybe I'm not understanding, but why not just a quicklink and rap ring on each bolt? No cord or cable needed... cheaper, lighter, and easily replaceable. |
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mike h wrote: Threading rope through anchors is hard |
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Booty stoppers |
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mike h wrote: Sometimes bolts need to be spaced out due to rock quality, or are already not perfectly even. Also spaced out rap rings twist the shit out of ropes sometimes. |
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I think ropes only get twisted when lowering off of spaced out rings. In my experience, rapping off of spaced out bolts without chains is no problem, and quite common. |
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Ate you drilling these anchors? Or kitting out existing ones? If so, drill them in vertical pattern. Thanks! |
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Darren Mabe wrote: Ate you drilling these anchors? Or kitting out existing ones? If so, drill them in vertical pattern. Thanks! Both. I like the vertical pattern too. It uses less tat material or chain, and is lower profile visually. |
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Just because these 2 things were sitting around 3/8 chain vs. factory made cable draw. About a 1/2lb difference. Both 16” total length. |
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mike h wrote: I think ropes only get twisted when lowering off of spaced out rings. In my experience, rapping off of spaced out bolts without chains is no problem, and quite common. No it gets twisted pulling as well if they are spaced further apart. The old metolious rap hangers are the worst offenders for this, had a nearly new rope turn into medusa's hair after rapping off a route with those. On the weight note for these, switch to 5/16" chain, it is a pretty significant drop in weight. Just use links large enough to thread a rope through in case the rings actually get significant wear. It's less effort than swagging cables. |
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To the extent the rope gets kinked pulling through rings, it will often get unkinked when you pull it through for the next rap and by your body weight while rapping. Personally if I came across some sort of cable-draw setup like the OP describes potentially making I likely wouldn't use it, even if it means leaving my own biner (or, more likely, setting it up with just the quick-link and getting the cable draw out of the way somehow). The only way I would use it is if it was clear the rope wouldn't pull correctly or would pull across some jagged edge if it wasn't used. |
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I seem to recall an accident a few years back where a rap anchor was made from cable and failed, dropping a guide to his death. Something like the swage area was corroded through. Jim has posted on here in the past about issues using wire for anchors and basically, it's a no no. That Cable draws made of non stainless materials have become so popular is likely going to become an issue at some point... |