2019-2020 Utah Ice Conditions Thread

Surprised this hasn't been started yet.  I've seen the GWI start to form and fall off, a couple smears in the Hogum Z gullies area...  Alpine ice in?  Uintas, Wasatch (northerm, central and Provo area), Spanish Fork, Joe's?

Saw someone soloing on provo canyon 2 weekends ago, looked thin but solid.

Reid’s Peak had no ice at all yesterday. It seemed too cold for ice to form even with plenty of snow. Put in an approach trail and did Golden Spike as a full mixed route anyway.  

We might want to consider updating the title for this thread to 2019-2020 Utah Ice Conditions Thread to avoid confusion, make for an easy search and so another one doesn't start...hope to check out Cobblerest this week...lot of stuff formed in CO and MT...we're due!

Hey if you're down to get out in mill b south fork to climb sundial falls and maybe search around for anything else in that fork this weekend give me a call or shoot me a text 6095764980

Hi all, I’m a total Utah ice newb. Where does one begin? guidebook? good area for WI4s or multi? fb page? what’s close to SLC?Thanks and really looking forward to visiting soon!!! 

http://www.pullpublishing.com/books-1/beehive-ice​​​

This weekend was a productive weekend for Utah ice climbers.   Quite a bit of stuff in, unfortunately a lot is going to go away with this warm high pressure system.

On my way back from Joes Valley on Saturday up the 31 on the right hand side was a really nice frozen waterfall. I'm not familiar with ice climbing so I can't give you anymore information about it.

That would be the dirtcicle Gregory.

I was glad to see it in after wondering if drought or water flow changes were gonna keep it from coming in again like last year.  

What will be in this weekend do y’all think?

Sundial falls up in big cottonwood is a guarantee, everything else not so much

Sundial Falls still good to go on 11-11.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4v3ATqn6Q4/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

So the main line on the Apron of Stairway To Heaven is replaced and the chains are extended and equalized. The anchor materials are stainless, but the chains are not. The WLL on the chain is 5600 lbs. though so it should do for awhile. Just keep in mind that the right hanger will have to be excavated from the ice from now on as it's recessed back in the shelf. Thanks to Thomas and Dustin for helping out.

Thanks for all the hard work Susan, Thomas and Dustin! Fine effort. 

Thank you Susan, (other) Thomas, and Dustin!! Great work!!

Climbed on Reids Peak in the Uintas yesterday. As evidenced in the photo below, "Golden Spike" and "The One Who Knocks" were both totally dry. We climbed a line to the right that I put in the database as "Sunshine Chimney," but we found a couple fixed pins and carabiners that seemed to indicate that at the very least the first couple pitches of what we climbed have been rappelled if nothing else. If anyone has more info, I'd be happy to have it and will update the entry.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/118090799/sunshine-chimney

Sundial Falls is delaminated on the first pitch. Screws are punching through the back and it's completely hollow. Best to wait until after this storm cycle to try this one.

Susan Sims wrote:

Sundial Falls is delaminated on the first pitch. Screws are punching through the back and it's completely hollow. Best to wait until after this storm cycle to try this one.

We were up there Saturday morning and passed on it.  Looked awful 

Any updates? I could be totally off, but I'd expect ice to start coming in after the storm we just had.

Thanks!

Went to check out the GWI this morning.  It was in pretty bad shape.  Think it was just a few degrees too warm recently to where it's not getting a good overnight freeze.

The climber's right gully on the 1st pitch was super thin and wet, with just thin bridges over a substantial amount of running water.  I'm sure it would go as a mixed climb, but you'd be standing in running water most of the time.  We made it halfway up before deciding it wasn't worth it.

The 2nd and 3rd pitches look in-ish, although still low volume and the ice quality is probably pretty questionable.

The 4th pitch looked horrid, with just a bit of ice on either side of a black waterfall.

With the temps slowly creeping up, I'm guessing one will have to go pretty high to find healthy ice.  I'd love to hear what others have found.