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Largest team to summit El Cap?

Original Post
5.7 Crusher · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 15

I was thinking about party wall ascent tactics recently, and I was wondering if anyone knows about the largest team to ever summit el cap (in terms of number of climbers)? Curious about the number of climbers, roles/tactics, route, and year/season completed?

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

Pretty sure the og nose team could claim that if you included everyone who worked on it.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

Iirc, Gerberding lead a party of seven up Zodiac a few years ago.

The Team Extreme Korean climbers routinely climb in teams of five. 

5.7 Crusher · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 15

True, I was more curious about ground-up style ascents though. I've heard of teams climbing with 4-5 climbers, each with rigid roles like leader, cleaner, hauler etc. Curious about this style of ascent or if there have been ground-up style ascents with more than 4-5 climbers on the team?

Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208

I've heard of some big Russian alpine siege teams.  Andy Kirkpatrick had some video of a Russian route on the Eiger where the belay anchors were these huge steel plates bolted to the wall to hold up all that weight.  The video is called "Comrades of Chaos"

Christian George · · Home-yes, Town- no · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Did the Muir as a team of four.
Three would have been better, but that’s mainly because #4 was a total douchebag.

Eric Santos · · Reno · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 30

Recently did Zodiac in a team of 4. It was largely a good time but I think we all wanted more leads by the end of it. A fun party, but a bit distanced from the climbing.

ThomasR · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

also- whats the largest IAD team? ran into a three person team doing the triple direct in a day. didn't know that was a thing until that third person jugged up to the ledge

Roots · · Wherever I am · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

Finally a great question on MP!

Agree with FA of Nose but that's cumulative.

Looks like 5 is LKT (Largest Known Team) for El Cap? ...or is it LKKT (Largest Known Korean Team)?

A. B. · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 51

What about PTPP and crew with the junk show/hanging deli and bar with and overflowing five gallon toilet bucket?

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
A. B. wrote: What about PTPP and crew with the junk show/hanging deli and bar with and overflowing five gallon toilet bucket?

Ptpp seldom climbs with more than three

Christopher Clay · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

In the 90s six of us climbed the Shield as part of a Project Bandaloop site specific dance performance.  Everyone led at least one pitch and four of us danced on the head wall.

(As an off topic aside, when I got to Chickenhead Ledge I noticed some weird object stashed under a rock.  Turned out to be a raunchy porn mag.  When I thumbed through it, I discovered that the centerfold spread involved a climbing theme with the young woman using a rope for several non-UIAA approved applications.  Never found out who had the genius of bringing that up there and carefully leaving it for someone to find.)

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Christopher Clay wrote: In the 90s six of us climbed the Shield as part of a Project Bandaloop site specific dance performance.  Everyone led at least one pitch and four of us danced on the head wall.

(As an off topic aside, when I got to Chickenhead Ledge I noticed some weird object stashed under a rock.  Turned out to be a raunchy porn mag.  When I thumbed through it, I discovered that the centerfold spread involved a climbing theme with the young woman using a rope for several non-UIAA approved applications.  Never found out who had the genius of bringing that up there and carefully leaving it for someone to find.)

Great story Chris!


I only remember Cans of Beef Ravioli and Olde English 800 when you and I bivy’d on Chicken Head Ledge back in 1996- or were you hogging the good stuff? 
2 Leg Greg ! · · Boulder · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 11
Eric Santos wrote: Recently did Zodiac in a team of 4. It was largely a good time but I think we all wanted more leads by the end of it. A fun party, but a bit distanced from the climbing.

I, personally, was not having ANY fun. We should do it again. 

Matt Thomsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 263

I think it was a team of 8 that did a push on the NA in around 2005(?). Richie, Nicky, DT, Walt, Sloan and I think a few more. I think they sent in 30 hours. Pretty funny and cool.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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