Mountain Project Logo

Draws taken off of Double Dragon, Chapel Wall, Yosemite valley

Original Post
Christian Black · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 365

Left some project draws on Double Dragon 12d at Chapel Wall in Yosemite. 7 Petzl Ange draws and one alpine draw. I even equipped the anchors for rapping while I was projecting, if you stole my shit please give it back.

Choss Wrangler · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 65

Maybe they thought you bailed :(

Mike G · · Pennsyltucky · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
Choss Wrangler · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 65
Mike G wrote:

What's wrong with my tick list? :*(

Mike G · · Pennsyltucky · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Troy . wrote:

What's wrong with my tick list? :*(

You could probably learn what goes into projecting hard-for-yourself routes. Do you really think the thief thought somebody would bail with a draw on every bolt? 

Jason A · · WASHINGTON · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 20

I will second that "sick tick list", talking smack to someone climbing 12d? Oh I see you edited that part out rather quickly....
Christian, I hope you get you stuff back but it probably wasn't someone that didn't know better, but rather an opportunistic scum...

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
Choss Wrangler · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 65
Mike G wrote:

You could probably learn what goes into projecting hard-for-yourself routes. Do you really think the thief thought somebody would bail with a draw on every bolt? 

Maybe he doesn't know how to bail properly. I don't like to assume. Do you often make assumptions?

Hson P · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 54
Troy . wrote:

Maybe he doesn't know how to bail properly. I don't like to assume. Do you often make assumptions?

Keep doubling down. Yeah. Maybe the guy that climbs 12d trad doesn’t know how to clean a route.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

Serious question: Is it typical to leave project draws up in a heavily trafficked section of Yosemite National Park? Seems like the NPS might not like that but I don't know. Do the rangers have your gear?

Conor Clarke · · St. Louis, MO · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,013

I wouldn't say it's typical to leave draws hanging in Yosemite, but it seems reasonable to leave them hanging on Double Dragon while projecting.  I believe the park service does sometimes take draws down.  If that's what happened it should be possible to talk to the climbing ranger and get them back.  The relevant rule is a little unclear and could be improved as applied to draws.  It says:

"Property left unattended in Yosemite for longer than 24 hours is considered abandoned and may be impounded. However, the National Park Service recognizes that there are circumstances when it is impractical for climbers to return to fixed ropes within 24 hours. In such cases we ask that you leave ropes and equipment in place only as long as you are actively using the lines and tag your lines with your name, contact number, and date fixed."

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Conor Clarke wrote: I wouldn't say it's typical to leave draws hanging in Yosemite, but it seems reasonable to leave them hanging on Double Dragon while projecting.  I believe the park service does sometimes take draws down.  If that's what happened it should be possible to talk to the climbing ranger and get them back.  The relevant rule is a little unclear and could be improved as applied to draws.  It says:

"Property left unattended in Yosemite for longer than 24 hours is considered abandoned and may be impounded. However, the National Park Service recognizes that there are circumstances when it is impractical for climbers to return to fixed ropes within 24 hours. In such cases we ask that you leave ropes and equipment in place only as long as you are actively using the lines and tag your lines with your name, contact number, and date fixed."

Thanks, Conor. 

Christian Black · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 365
Conor Clarke wrote: I wouldn't say it's typical to leave draws hanging in Yosemite, but it seems reasonable to leave them hanging on Double Dragon while projecting.  I believe the park service does sometimes take draws down.  If that's what happened it should be possible to talk to the climbing ranger and get them back.  The relevant rule is a little unclear and could be improved as applied to draws.  It says:

"Property left unattended in Yosemite for longer than 24 hours is considered abandoned and may be impounded. However, the National Park Service recognizes that there are circumstances when it is impractical for climbers to return to fixed ropes within 24 hours. In such cases we ask that you leave ropes and equipment in place only as long as you are actively using the lines and tag your lines with your name, contact number, and date fixed."

Yeah I just asked the climbing rangers, they said they didn’t take any down. There’s plenty of obscure climbs with fixed gear or draws on them. I think leaving them on a classic like Drive By would be silly, I didn’t think they would get bothered with since no one really climbs Double Dragon (I was only the second tick on Mtn Proj). Oh well, shit happens, I hope they eventually learn some climbing ethics. 

Choss Wrangler · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 65

I would like to be helpful and extended an offer to teach Christian how to bail off routes without leaving all of his draws. 

John Clark · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398
Troy . wrote: I would like to be helpful and extended an offer to teach Christian how to bail off routes without leaving all of his draws. 

I think you missed the part where he is projecting the route, not bailing off of it, hence why he would just leave the draws on it until he gets a redpoint. The route takes 6 protection draws and an anchor draw (meaning he got to the top of the route and was not leaving bail draws). Leaving gear in for a pinkpoint would be weird. Leaving draws on a sport route, not so weird.

Choss Wrangler · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 65
Rob T wrote:

Oh come on, just say it, you know you want to. 

“ LNT!!!!!! I nEveR nEeD To lEaVe GeAr on My rOuTes to cOmPleTe ThEm”
(except for ballnuts, keeping track of those is hard)

Geez people can be so rude now a days. I do still miss that ballnut. Did you find it? :*(

Mikey Seaman · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5
Christian Black wrote:

(I was only the second tick on Mtn Proj) 

Thought you were projecting? And you left your gear, no?

Christian Black · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 365
Maurice Chaunders wrote:

Thought you were projecting? And you left your gear, no?

Yeah I sent but it was so fun I wanted to come back and climb it again later that week. And regarding the above comments, obviously I would not bail on a route and leave a draw on every bolt and two anchor draws, that’s a pretty silly assumption. 

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

Oooh - the plot thickens!!!

Word Nazi time...

If a route was "sent" and "project draws" were left afterwards...

IS

IT

BOOTY!?!?!?!?!??!

Choss Wrangler · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 65
Christian Black wrote:

Yeah I sent but it was so fun I wanted to come back and climb it again later that week. And regarding the above comments, obviously I would not bail on a route and leave a draw on every bolt and two anchor draws, that’s a pretty silly assumption. 

Shame on you Christian! You deceived us all     

Ryan Kelley · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 655
Matt N wrote: Oooh - the plot thickens!!!

Word Nazi time...

If a route was "sent" and "project draws" were left afterwards...

IS

IT

BOOTY!?!?!?!?!??!

This changes everything. Project was sent so the draws no longer have the “project” keyword and are now just normal draws.  

Therefore the person claimed legal booty.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Lost and Found
Post a Reply to "Draws taken off of Double Dragon, Chapel Wall,…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started