Harder Crack Climbs near Boston
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I'm visiting a friend in Boston soon but I wanted to get a fix in while I prep for Indian Creek. Anyone have any good recommendations for hard crack climbs? I saw Thee Offwidth and Doug's Roof, wanted to know if there were any more in the area. Looking for things 5.10-5.12ish in about an hour's drive or less. Crow Hill also looks promising |
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The best crack climbing in Massachusetts is in New Hampshire |
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Connecticut Crack at a place no one talks about near Crow Hill goes hard right? I wouldn’t know it’s abov my paygrade, but think so. |
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For Gloucester, Zipper is great if you're a fan of 5.6: it's just very aesthetic with great movements. |
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If you're a crack addict you'll love pawtuckaway. Mostly short stuff but a lot of bang for your buck and every size you can think of right next to each other. |
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if you're trying to get some miles in before heading to the creek, i'd suggest just doing laps on black jack crack in rumney- don't use the footholds. crack of pain in pway is a good trainer as well, though decidedly less fun than black jack. |
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I haven't seen anything near Boston that resembles the kind of sustained jamming on sandstone cracks. For endurance training I'd rather work on cracks in the gym. Central rock cambridge has a variable overhanging crack machine that will surely satisfy your needs in difficulty. Metrorock has three short vertical crack lines, hand, fist, and hard rattly finger. |
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Nolan Huther wrote: Edited title to be a bit more descriptive of what I'm looking for but I have a feeling that these suggestions are showing that there just isn't what I'm looking for. Since will be visiting Boston I'm not gonna be looking to leave the area, I'll be climbing a little in probably the Cape Ann/Lynn Woods anyway, just was looking for routes I should particularly have on my radar anytime I'm visiting. BkB Somerville has two TR routes with WideBoys (TM) cracks on them! |
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Xi Yin wrote: I haven't seen anything near Boston that resembles the kind of sustained jamming on sandstone cracks. For endurance training I'd rather work on cracks in the gym. Central rock cambridge has a variable overhanging crack machine that will surely satisfy your needs in difficulty. Metrorock has three short vertical crack lines, hand, fist, and hard rattly finger. The metro cracks are such bad off-sizes if you have smaller hands, haha. Good training for hard crack climbing, I guess! Super curious if anyone does come up with any climbs in the immediate Boston area that match what Nolan is looking for. |
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Boston to Cape Ann: 1 hr drive |
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One little indian in cape Ann is worth getting on, starts with a fist jam and goes down to fingers, it's a Henry barber 10+ so it's definitely a little tough |
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I’d second Farley. Everything Tom mentioned is at the main area and easy to find. Are they the best trainers for IC- no, but, there’s jamming, they’re aesthetically pleasing, and good practice and fun. Bulletproof is the 5.13 offwidth, and Barndoor is a .10b, probably the most fun .10b I’ve done. |
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Cat Crack at East Peak near Meriden / Hartford Connecticut is good, but more like 2 hours from Boston. |
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In general, not a ton of cracks in the region you are looking. With that said: |
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None. Lots of good bouldering and single pitch climbing, though. |
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Rumor has it...MIT campus has some nice crack buildering, so I've heard. Dont get caught! |
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Fan Yang wrote: Rumor has it...MIT campus has some nice crack buildering, so I've heard. Dont get caught! Where? I only know about the chimneys. |
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z sweep wrote: One little indian in cape Ann is worth getting on, starts with a fist jam and goes down to fingers, it's a Henry barber 10+ so it's definitely a little tough This is a great route, but keep a low profile as this is surrounded by private land. |
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You could certainly go out to places like Crow Hill and do laps on Jane and Cro Magnon till you get a good burn. As others have said there is nothing in the East like Indian Creek. You won't have problems on anything 5.10 and under at the Creek, but the main focus is to have a good time. |