Tips for going from TR and bouldering to leading on sport/trad
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How does one go from top roping/ bouldering to the other avenues of climbing without being a complete drag on the other people in a group? |
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Mentorship with a patient person. Mock leading on toprope with simu rappel to go over placements. Ground level practice. That's how I learned. That and a lot of reading and YouTube. |
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Yeah exactly what Jay said. In my opinion one most definitely needs a mentor for trad climbing, and you certainly need to learn from an experienced for sports climbing too. Cleaning a route on trad, re-threading at the top of a sports route, correct safe belaying all need to be learnt from someone who knows how and who actually WANTS to teach you how. Belaying a climber climbing on top rope is 'easier' than belaying a climber climbing a sports route and a leader climbing a trad route. You also need to hook up with someone who might know the routes (climbed them before) knows which routes might be an easier grade but have poor protection, where the abseils are (or walk offs) etc. |
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Find a Mentor. Read books (Basic TR Anchors, Rappelling, Self Rescue, Accident Reports, Trip Reports, Trad Climbing). Watch videos of setups. Learn self-rescue. All the knots and what they are used for. Tie those knots one hundred times over. Making different type of anchors (gear vs bolts vs natural). Going "in direct" on an anchor. Lead belaying. Think of all the situations you could possibly get yourself in and out of and learning to avoid those. Craggin' and Multipitch Etiquette for your area and others. Once you feel confident and ready, mock lead. Lead some easy stuff. Lead some moderates and just lead lead lead lead on all the rocks everywhere! |
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With sport, it's simple enough that you can probably learn in short, short order. Just go do that. |
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Mentor, books, instruction, but IMO sport first, then trad. |
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Sport: you can start by taking a lead belay class st the gym, and practice leading/sport climbing in the gym. Most gyms these days also offer an anchor-cleaning class, and some kind of “gym-to-outdoor” class. With these skills you should have the basics that would help you transition outside, and I do not think you would be a “burden”, assuming that you also do your share in carrying gear, and are generally helpful/positive in your attitude. The rest of the things you need to know are general outdoorsy skills, be it camping, or pooping in the woods. |
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Other options... |
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Don't learn on a multipitch. Period. |
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Francis QC wrote: Don't learn on a multipitch. Period. Why not? |
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Don't be a jerk. That's how you keep from being a drag. Help carry stuff, bring food/beer, help set up and clean-up, don't complain, don't hangdog, be willing to belay... |
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If you're a regular visitor to a climbing wall you'll probably know the quiet periods. Practice leading, but instead of going straight up, do traverses and zig zags. Practice hanging belays, it's really helpful to do it in such a safe environment using the walls bolts or top anchors. Become knowledgeable in setting up belays and how to escape one and learn many other skills by asking the more experienced climbers - you'll rarely find anyone not prepared to help out as climbing is such a great community sport. |
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Prior to when there was a differentiation between 'trad' and 'sport', many people would start on 5.3 and just figure it out. |
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Jay Dee · Sep 3, 2019 · Summerville, SC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0 Mentorship with a patient person. Mock leading on toprope with simu rappel to go over placements. Ground level practice. That's how I learned. That and a lot of reading and YouTube.Jay is %100 exactly right. There are some excellent suggestion by some others as well. Sport climbing will be the cheapest to start off with as trad will cost more money to get your rack started. "From America Alpine institute 5.0-5.6 - Beginner level climber 5.7-5.9 - Intermediate level climber 5.10a-5.11c - Advanced level climber 5.11d-5.13d - Professional climber 5.14a-5.15b - World class climber" I almost always had friends that climbed a lot harder than me no matter how good I got. I had the pleasure of climbing with a few world class climbers while I was according to AMI leading in the Professional level range (years ago defiantly not now) and it always amazed me why would these guys want to climb with me? Why would they ask me to go to the crags with them? No way in hell could I do any of their projects no way could I keep up with them in any aspect of climbing really. But the basic answer would always be the same from all of them "You are fun to be around and you are really safe." So learn to be safe first and foremost. Read every copy of Accidents in North American Mountaineering that you can get your hands on. It will be a good invest of your time. People want to climb with safe partners they will climb with you even if you are not at their level as long as you are safe and not a jerk. Find that mentor learn to be safe. |
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This article talks you through how to make the transition. Not the only way to make the switch, but good things to think about: northwestclimbing.com/f/are… |
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Lon Harter wrote: That list is complete Bull Shit. I have seen that before on an NPS survey about what level climber you are. I know people who I would gladly rope up with who are safe, experienced climbers who only climb 5.7.... and I know some who climb 5.12 and I wouldn’t let them belay me on TR.Jess saying |
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Guy KeeseeGuy I do agree that it doesn't take into account if you are a sport climber, trad, ice, or have Big stone exp. Or your safety knowledge for that matter. It was made a long time ago before they had big influx of Gym climbers going outside and climbing for the first time. And at that time it was relevant. My point I was making was even though I was a fairly experienced climber there was no way I could keep up with a climber that was sending 5.14's or one who was in the running for a speed record on El Cap. But they would asked to go because I was safe and fun to be around. Don't read too much into it. It was just a comparison to make the point that you will be asked to go climbing by better climbers if you are safe and fun to be around. Yes if you look around today you will find posts for 5.12 level sport/gym climbers asking people to take them out on 5.7 trad. Good for them for realizing that 5.12 gym doesn't transfer over to 5.12 trad. That is not what the American Alpine Institute was ranking when they were talking about climbing grades back in the late 80's. Back then all the sport climbers came from trad climbing and it was the next step in progression. Again keep in mind the time and context of climbing that was happening when this list by the American Alpine Institute was written. I can see how today it might raze some questions. And I agree about not letting some one belay you just based on their leading ability as there is so much more that goes into safety and the responsibility of a belayer. |
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I took a rock class a couple years ago but haven't done much actual climbing. Maybe three times after. |
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I've just started climbing again after an absence of more than 30 years. Main reason was to try and improve movement in my left knee which doesn't bend beyond 110 degrees - but here's the thing: back in the day I was a JSRCI (joint service rock climbing instructor) and my top level was around UK E6 6b/c or 5.12c ish, plus huge experience in the high mountains even leading my own expedition. |
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OMG, how is it that there are so many questions? You either want it bad enough to go outside & go for it or you can stay inside |
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Brian James wrote: I took a rock class a couple years ago but haven't done much actual climbing. Maybe three times after. If they're inviting you, you should go and find out. Regardless of how the rope goes up someone will generally follow. No reason it shouldn't be you. You don't restrict them to TR. |