Too New to Train?

I see a ton of new climbers wanting to get into training ASAP.  I'm happy that so many people want to climb harder, and I think it elevates the sport.  Does anyone else see lots of beginners jumping in real quick on the training side?  

People ask me about ARC, Hangboard training, campusing and they climb V2 or V3 or 5.10.  I like to tell people this.

ARCing is a base. Like running on a treadmill. Increase your ARC and you'll be happy and will easily climb 5.10. DO NOT ARC on Slab, and DO NOT ARC with no hands rests in chimneys or on aretes, it defeats the purpose entirely.
Bouldering is strength based, and requires greater functional movement, and schemas of technical movement. It's likely that your technique is draining you, so focus on climbing on as many types of climbing areas (overhung and slightly overhung) to develop strength. SLAB doesn't develop strength
V-whatever is attainable, but just climb a lot. Also, V-whatever in the gym is NOT V-whatever outside.
Just go climbing outside and focus on trying hard...that will get you far in the initial stages. V-whatever is a year/2 off, depending on your personal ability/previous strength/athletics. Bouldering is all about strength.

DON'T try to do everything at once. That is recipe for failure and frustration. If you want to climb 5.10, awesome. DO it ,continue ARCing and you'll be there soon.

But Arc for 6 weeks (Anderson Brother's Protocol) 2x a week with increasing duration/reps 2x20min, 2x25min, 3x20min, 3x25min, with a few volume climbing days (5-7, 6-8, 10-12 routes on the weekends) You'll be there. It's a process

Do you agree with my assessment?  Anything that I could add/subtract?

I usually just tell people to focus on climbing well and developing good footwork. There's no need for any kind of climbing specific training until you get into the 5.11 or V3/4 range. In the early days I figure it's better to develop a foundation of good technique. If nothing else I tell them that it can take 1 to 3 years for tendons to adapt to the stresses that climbing places on them. That's a fact of biology. So by getting into hangboarding or campusing too soon all they are really doing is increasing their risk of an injury.

Although lifting to strengthen the antagonist muscles, legs, and core is just good overall.

Strongly disagree 

What do you strongly disagree with?  

I refuse to ARC train now. I got way fucked up from it.

Anderson Brothers protocol. 

I hear newer climbers talking about training as well, but you might agree, it's almost always technique that's the limiting factor.  We only have so much energy, so I say spend it on actually climbing and climb every variety.  Study the techniques and movements of the masters.  The strength comes naturally.  I think perfect technique and moderate strength could take someone to V8ish.  When you hit that ceiling and the climbing becomes too powerful, too tiring or the holds too small, then it might be time to think about training seriously...  I feel like that's we're I've ended up in my short climbing career thus far.  

Good to know, I haven't heard of many people getting hurt/messed up from the Anderson Bros protocol.
When I was ARCing I felt unstoppable.  I did a few macrocycles.

Erik Climb301Skimo001 wrote: Good to know, I haven't heard of many people getting hurt/messed up from the Anderson Bros protocol.
When I was ARCing I felt unstoppable.  I did a few macrocycles.

I felt Unstoppable until I had blood clots all over my shoulder I.e. thoracic outlet syndrome 

YIKES. Damn, I'll make sure to remember that one

This is a very subjective thing. When to train? I think perhaps the more important thing to focus on here is that IF you are going to train, do it correctly. Erik, I can see where you are coming from however,  I think self prescribing something to anyone of any level is arbitrary. It worked for you. Great.

The fact is we all plateau at different levels. It’s not a one size fits all climbing/training world. Different things work for different folks. In my opinion, RTCM is not a great option for most people. There is a lot of great information in the RCTM, but I think it gets executed poorly by most people. So if this whole post is a rant about how people train incorrectly, please don’t recommend a protocol that largely relies on proper hangboard form/knowledge.

There are plenty of knowledgeable training coaches out there who can work with athletes of ANY level. Seems like a bit of a cool kids club to tell beginners they aren’t ready to train. If they are an over stoked Gumby, maybe send them in the direction of an actual expert. Let them decide what they can and can’t do. Sure, technique is great, but there are far better movement drills than ARCing.

There must be more to life than being really, really, ridiculously good at training, and I plan on finding out what that is.

Erik Climb301Skimo001 wrote: DO NOT ARC on Slab, and DO NOT ARC with no hands rests ... on aretes, it defeats the purpose entirely.

Did you mean dihedral? How would you do a no hands rest on an arete that isn't a slab? Knee bar! I always miss the knee bars.

What route is ARC?  Gunks?