Belaying Very light climber
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When belaying a very light partner with an atc, is it safe to use the smooth side as the brake side rather than the side with the teeth? Seems like it would make lowering much easier. |
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Try it, with a backup, and let us know how it works. Remember the original tube-style belay device, the Tuber, had no v-slots. Neither did the Pyramid or the BD ATC or the DMM Bug or the WC Vario or the old Sticht Plates. They all worked... |
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You should be just fine. But if you are not sure how it would feel, have a backup the first time you try. |
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How light are we talking? How much lighter than you? Why would turning around an ATC (I assume we're talking about an ATC-XP, ATC-guide, etc.?) to use it the style of a "regular" ATC be a problem? Devices like the XP, etc. are designed to be used either way, based on situation and preference-- it is right in the user manual (see the first paragraph under "Instructions for use" and figure A). |
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Lena chita wrote: You should be just fine. But if you are not sure how it would feel, have a backup the first time you try. I really don't think you should be bragging, even if the people you "belated" were 2000 pounds. Sheesh.... |
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It is 100% fine for many situations, even desirable in some. |
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Old lady H wrote: Hahaha! Phone autocorrect made a funny! Usually it just makes nonsense. |
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ChrisSwicord wrote: When belaying a very light partner with an atc, is it safe to use the smooth side as the brake side rather than the side with the teeth? Seems like it would make lowering much easier. Yes, its safe and will make lowering easier. |
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Thanks for everyone’s input, I gave this a try at the gym today. Worked great! |
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Teeth or no teeth won't make much (if any) of a difference. The main difference will be the V-shape or no V-shape on the brake hand side. This is increasingly important when using thinner ropes. In a gym environment this will work fine as they don't use very thin ropes. The BD ATC guide is speced at a minimum rope diameter of 8.1mm. This is assuming you actually use the V-shape on the brake hand strand. Eventhough you had a "successful" test in the gym (with a "fat" rope), be careful if you go outside and use a thin rope. |
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ChrisSwicord wrote: When belaying a very light partner with an atc, is it safe to use the smooth side as the brake side rather than the side with the teeth? Seems like it would make lowering much easier. Yes, it is. Per the instruction sheet that accompanies the ATC. That is referred to as "normal friction mode". Using the ridged side for the brake hand is referred to as "high friction mode". Personally, I don't notice much difference on a light person, so no need to switch. |