Critique this TRS anchor
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What's wrong with this anchor for top rope solo? I've used the usual, recommended anchor set ups and I sort of stumbled upon this one when I improvised after forgetting extra lockers before running up a new route. My biggest concern is I've never seen anyone else do this and I don' find it in one of the anchor books or on one of the AAC or AMGA videos. Bur for simplicity and redundancy it works well for what I use it for - TRS on short sport lines. I can see the anchors clearly from the ground and having two separate cloves helps to see if anything has gotten funky. The fixed rope is dynamic so if one side were to fail, there would be some give in the fall on to the other clove. Another upside for TRS is there is more space/less confusion when completing a lap and transitioning to rappel down the other side of the fixed line. I've run 20-40 laps on this set up with no issues and it's just that little bit smoother and cleaner. Also the progress capture side doesn't get twisted up with the rap side nearly as often as with a traditional anchor. How am I going to die? Oh, and just to head the "don't leave a fixed line up" crowd off at the pass, I haven't seen another climber in the broader climbing area, let alone at this crag for the past 5 months. |
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Is it your rope that is "fixed"? Why wouldn't you want the assurance of using your own rope? (maybe getting to the anchor is difficult?) |
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My only real problem with that setup is it looks like the biner on the left bolt is being leveraged over a small bulge. |
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It’s fine. I’ve done this. But i don’t use cloves. Figure 8’s are the way to go. |
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Figure 8s instead of cloves. I just do a locker to each bolt with figure 8s for TR solo if there's nothing that makes it a bad idea (loading over an edge, where the rope runs, etc). Less stuff to go wrong. |
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yeah fig 8's and why not throw a locker in there? anybody else scene a drop in blow :( |
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I think it's fine, but like others have said, use figure eights. There's no real advantage here of the clove hitches as you're not wanting to adjust it (which is the great advantage of clove hitches). |
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Why have so much slack between cloves? |
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What's wrong with using the Clove hitch ? |
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F loyd wrote: Why have so much slack between cloves? Why would that matter? |
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Suburban Roadside wrote: What's wrong with using the Clove hitch ? That's debatable. |
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Max Rausch wrote: Just curious. It looks intentionally done, so I wish to know the reasoning. |
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You won't see this in any manuals because it's an inferior rig. |
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Thanks for all the responses.
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F loyd wrote: It was just the amount of rope that happened to be between the two draws. I guess in the case of one bolt failing I could have limited potential extension by a few inches? I don't think it would make that much difference, but I've never been through a bolt failure. |
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Matt- We all appreciate creativity, part of the fun in rope work. But.. learn an overhand bight on a bight, you'll never go back! Faster, simpler, and way more bomber. Versatile in other applications too, you'll be psyched to have it in your bag of tricks. |
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chris magness wrote: Just tie an overhand bight-on-a-bight Can anyone illustrate that? Is it this? |
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Long Ranger wrote:You beat me to it! See above post, it's the overhand bight on a bight, the knot to which I've been referring. |
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chris magness wrote: Matt- We all appreciate creativity, part of the fun in rope work. But.. learn an overhand bight on a bight, you'll never go back! Faster, simpler, and way more bomber. Versatile in other applications too, you'll be psyched to have it in your bag of tricks. Sweet, thanks! |
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Naw Chris, you beat ME to it! |
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Matt Clay wrote: No worries, I saw two cloves (which are easy to adjust and could quickly reduce the slack) and thought you had a purpose for it. I will have a bit of rope like that if it's a shitty belay station so I can grab it and adjust myself instead of grabbing the lockers on the bolts. |