To post or not to...
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Recently finished a 3 pitch sprad route. It is high in the mountains close to another route put up a few years ago by someone else. That route has yet to be posted as well. Here is why. |
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whose the crazy bolt chopper?!?!?!?! |
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1. Post it. Tag the guy. |
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That's sad and unfortunate. I'd lean towards leaving it at as word of mouth, give it some time and see where things go in regards to the sociopath and the popularity of the route. (I want to climb it!) |
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The Raven wrote: Recently finished a 3 pitch sprad route. It is high in the mountains close to another route put up a few years ago by someone else. That route has yet to be posted as well. Here is why. You seem to already have decided there are not enough bolted routes out there for people to enjoy, so I would go ahead and post it. The bolts are already there. |
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Very little of the route is bolted. Out of 290 feet only 90 are bolted. 6 bolts over easy terrain for someone who climbs the grade. Not just a bolted route. |
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Can you live with having the bolts chopped? Are you or others ready to replace the bolts if they are chopped? If so, post away. Some people will appreciate and take advantage of your efforts. |
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The Raven wrote: Very little of the route is bolted. Out of 290 feet only 90 are bolted. 6 bolts over easy terrain for someone who climbs the grade. Not just a bolted route. Fair enough. I would think that power drills and the proliferation of bolting (it's growing exponentially) would be an environmental concern to others as well--not just "traddies." I can remember the days when pin scars were the big concern. Then came "clean climbing." Now we're back to scarring the rock on a world-wide basis. Does anyone doubt that 'clean' bolt substitutes will not come along in the near future? Why not leave a few routes for future 'leave no trace' climbers. |
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Mike Grainger wrote: I am a godless agnostic destined to burn in the fires of hell...Godless agnostics believe in hell?? |
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Possibly I was not referencing my personal belief system? |
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JJK wrote: Post it, but name it the Jim Beyer Memorial Route. Funny, but he would probably be offended and certainly mangle it. The route is named Climb it Change. David, we thought about leaving it but I kinda think the leave for the future ideology to be wobbly at best. That line of thought could be said about any new climb, even a simple, easy trad route. Chances are some trace of your passing will be present while establishing it. Cleaning etc... And who are we to take that possible FA from someone not yet born? If a boltless future comes to fruition I imagine we will see climbers pulling bolts in an intelligent fashion instead of placing them. Climbers have always used the best technology available at the time and evolved with advancements. The bolts on this route were all placed by hand on lead from natural stances and a couple of Rurps. Jim would not remove these bolts in an intelligent fashion. He would mangle them to prove his point. Even his routes recently established in the area are littered with half ass installations. Look up the thread Really Jim? for an idea. |
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Public shaming and name dropping is what I was waiting for. Both are powerful tools. I say post the damn route. We'll all know who chopped it if something happens.... |
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David Baltz wrote:Even though it was "sold" as "clean climbing", nuts were quickly adopted because it was faster and easier to place and remove pro making harder routes more possible, rather than because of a huge concern about pin scars. And I don't think I need to mention the weight of a rack of iron pins and a hammer. Oh, I just did. And if RURPs are the alternative, how are they any different than other pins? I've seen poisoned food/water/air, war, plague, environmental collapse, asteroid impacts and volcanic winter listed as causes for the end of civilization. I guess scaring the rock on a world-wide basis just hasn't hit Instagram or Facebook yet. Please share. If you want to blame someone, blame climbing gyms. Or overpopulation. The Outdoor-Industrial Complex. Or Hemingway. Or Trump. Or Fake News. (But not both.)
I heard that one in the near past, about 35 years ago, so yeah, I seriously doubt it. And oh, there's no such thing as a leave no trace climber, hiker, camper, human being. Get over it. Their clothing, shoes, food & water consumption, houses, electrical consumption, cell towers, automobiles, highways; everything leaves a trace and much larger scars. |
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Haha, y'too late son. I done chopped that rig, nawmean?!?! |
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The Raven wrote: The bolts on this route were all placed by hand on lead from natural stances and a couple of Rurps. More power to you! I respect that style. Sorry to hijack the thread for my rant. |
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Idyllwild Incel wrote: Haha, y'too late son. I done chopped that rig, nawmean?!?! Yet another post that has no relevance. More crap Rollin out of one of many Burchey personas. You should stick to making knives. Or better put, adding handles to metal you did not forge. You know nothing about this route. And I doubt you could climb it. A bit above your pay grade. Nawmean? |
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I luv the intrawebs |
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David Baltz wrote: No problem David. You were working off of incomplete info but offered the kind of response that is valid. We should question the motives of others. If not we all end up like poor Burchey. Dude can't even figure out who he is. |
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Did you free it? |
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Eric Chabot wrote: Did you free it? Yes. Both of us have led every pitch. Goes at 12c if interested. |
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The Raven wrote: I think you mean A2. Don’t forget your RURPs. |