Belaying from above with masterpoint at feet
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I was climbing at Otter Cliffs in Acadia last week. The norm here is to build anchors in cracks running along the ground (see Jonathan Steitzer's photo below for an example). Then, the climber is either lowered or rapps to the base and climbs back up on a top belay, with the belayer sitting at the cliff edge to see the climber. |
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If top roping rap down and self belay with a minitrax or similar. Setup two ropes and race your friend. Fun. |
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Make your tether long enough so you can sit with your legs over the edge and belay with munter from the master point. That way you can pull slack without dragging the rope over the edge, and the Munter allows you to pull in full arm lengths without having to worry about defeating the cam on the Grigri. |
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Or anchor yourself, sit on the edge, and just belay directly off of your harness. No masterpoint, no redirects. |
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Marc801 C wrote: Or anchor yourself, sit on the edge, and just belay directly off of your harness. No masterpoint, no redirects. "Belay directly off of your harness" is also called an "indirect belay", which I described doing above. The problem was that the rope anchoring me to the masterpoint would pin my thigh to the ground once loaded. Under load, it would also pull the belay device downwards into the rock. |
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Julian H wrote: Look up some videos of climbing from Scotland they have a lot of sea cliffs there. They belay of the harness at the edge of the cliff Nice production quality of the video, but it doesn't address any of the concerns I had. I was belaying off the harness (an indirect belay) while sitting over the edge, facing outwards, connected to the anchor with the climbing rope clove-hitched, just like they are at 4:25 in the video. If the second were to fall, the load would pull the belay device downwards, probably to his knees or below. The load would also transfer to the rope running across his left thigh, pinning his left thigh. Both are problems with this setup. |
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Conway Yao wrote:Actually, it doesn't, to any great extent. It's a non-issue. Nope. Look closely - the tie in, belay device, and climber's rope are all to the left of his left thigh, precisely to avoid those issues. |
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Headed to Acadia next weekend. Would love to see some insights on managing this stance. Unlike most of what you see in NH. Would be using a GriGri. |
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I think you might be overstating the concerns about the Gri Gri being pinned or rubbing against the rock. As long as you are treating it as an assisted braking device and managing the brake strand like you would an ATC, and you are able to monitor it's position and movement during the belay, I don't think it is cause for concern. That being said, in this scenario I would probably sit at the edge with my legs dangling over so I can watch my partner and be comfortable, and then just belay directly off my harness with an ATC. If you situate yourself with some forethought, you should be able to avoid getting pinned under the rope or running into any issues. |
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Master point to my left, rope around the base of a tree.. The munter hitch is purposely above the edge. Consider rope stretch, the munter brakes in any direction. |
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Conway Yao Wrote:Yes this, If you can't find a way to equalize the forces/ direction of pull (by being slightly to one side) I would extend everything. The master point/shelf to over the edge, then using the rope, extend your anchor so that you are set up just under the masterpoint facing the wall, looking down between your legs & the wall with your stance braced feet at shoulder-width apart. Either belaying off the masterP in guide mode or a "re-direct, equalized between belayer & the anchor, to the GriGri off your belay loop. |
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I would have belayed off my harness as you did, but with an atc. Just find the most comfortable situation for the ropes. Munter is probably even better. |
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Ha ha, guides being risky with customers is hilarious. Once you establish a good belay position there is no way possible for the grigri to flip over. Its the best tool for the cliff. Plus you may notice the edges aren't sharp, some may have even been "comfortized" for the rope |
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My configuration for this is usually to (some repeat of above) ...
Climber waiting the rope does sort of pin me to the cliff edge. In an emergency, weight can be transferred to master point using common procedures with careful routing of the to-be-loaded strand. Bring edge padding and configure the master point to be within reach? |
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Conway Yao wrote:I use this setup frequently, have caught lots of falls with it. It's often the only way to sit next to the edge and communicate with my climber when I'm using a tree anchor far back from the edge. If the second were to fall, the load would pull the belay device downwards, probably to his knees or below. The load would also transfer to the rope running across his left thigh, pinning his left thigh. Both are problems with this setup. I don't think they are problems. If you're tied into the rope and your belay device is clipped to your belay loop, there's not that much slack in the system that it will drag it to your knees. I've caught quite a few falls this way and never had the rope go close to my knees.With care you can usually position yourself so that your thigh wouldn't be pinned in a fall, but I've been careless a few times and gotten my leg pinned. It wasn't the end of the world. |
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I'm partial to building a bomb anchor using the rope, extend the masterpoint over the edge and just do a hanging belay over the cliff edge. It's more fun for me to belay that way anyway. Depending on how it's set up i'll switch between direct and indirect belays in this position, but most often can manage a direct belay. Of course, YGD, but we all know that. |
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Yeah, clearly that’s the safer option than the dreaded harness belay! |
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Your climbing the chimney, which does have a bit if an edge to it so an edge protector is nice. If your at otter you should have one. Your anchor it's nice but you want your matter point or a second matter point within arms reach of you during in the ledge. Stuff you bag under the master point to pick the grigri up when it's loaded and redirect the brake strand to another carabineer for the lower. Unclip it for the belay. Make sure the black with the lever is orientated up. This configuration allows for seamless transition to hauling if need be, but if you end up hauling you done fucked already somewhere. |
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I remember seeing another top belay vid where the belayer clipped the belay device to the figure 8 tie in loop to his harness, instead of the belay loop on the harness. |
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Yep! Just don’t use a Yosemite Finish on your 8. |