Climbing Anchors
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I'm sure someone has something to say. It comes down to personal preference And our environment. If you can tell about your go to anchors what would you say? |
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My go-to anchor is to get some solid anchor points and attach myself to them. |
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Two okay hands and two okay feet, two great feet, two great hands, one great hand and one great foot, two okay hands and a great foot, two okay feet and a great hand, one perfect hole and a viagra, two shiny bolts, a good nut and a solid piton, two bomber cams, three okay cams, three solid nuts, three okay bolts, two bomber pitons, a solid tree, or a really nice slug horn/chockstone. That's pretty much it for me. |
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My go-to anchor is to get some solid anchor points and attach myself to them.Shit, I've been doing it so wrong this whole time. |
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N Gonzalez wrote: I'm sure someone has something to say. It comes down to personal preference And our environment. If you can tell about your go to anchors what would you say? What does "our environment" have to do with anchors? Your question is vague. |
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N Gonzalez wrote: I'm sure someone has something to say. It comes down to personal preference And our environment. If you can tell about your go to anchors what would you say? TRAD, top rope, sinking bodies, boating, my tent in Jtree wind? Different environments call for different anchors. Watcha, watcha, watcha want? |
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What have learned to use as your anchors sport climbing and trad? Which were considered good anchors but failed? What's fast, to move on a multi pitch? All day top rope? Making knots in a runner, is that something people still do? |
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N Gonzalez wrote: What have learned to use as your anchors sport climbing and trad? Which were considered good anchors but failed?If they failed those people aren't around to tell you about it. |
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N Gonzalez wrote: I'm sure someone has something to say. It comes down to personal preference And our environment. If you can tell about your go to anchors what would you say? Just don't t leave the empties at the crags. Pack them out! |
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N Gonzalez wrote: What have learned to use as your anchors sport climbing and trad? Which were considered good anchors but failed? What's fast, to move on a multi pitch? All day top rope? Making knots in a runner, is that something people still do? For all day TR I use a quad made of 20 or 30' (I have two) 7mm Bluewater accessory cord with 3 or 4 lockers. One or both bolts have lockers and the rope has two lockers (one screwgate, one BD rocklock magnetron with the gate towards the rock) and sometimes a non-locker between them to reduce the wear. I would probably use Edelrid Bulletproofs for the rope biners if I was getting new gear for this purpose. For sport with experienced people, two quickdraws with the spines trapping the rope so the gates are facing away from each other.For trad: Bolted anchors - usually two lockers with clove hitches. Put a figure 8 on a bight in between for a masterpoint and to clip any extra gear onto that I don't want hanging on me. Or a quick quad or equalette out of a quadruple length sling or accessory cord. Gear anchors - almost always an equalette out of a quad length sling or accessory cord if we're not swinging leads and even if we are. If we're swinging leads I'll sometimes just use the rope and either make an equalette with it or just clove to all 3 pieces and call it good. |
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Ask John Turtledong to mentor you. |
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I prefer a Danforth or the Manson Boss, depending on the nature of the bottom and the swell. |
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What I use anything less is just playing with your life |