Best Face-Trad areas
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After a trip to the New, I'm stoked on face-trad, as in, sporty climbs that are gear protected. Splitter cracks have gotten a bit old at this point. |
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Following. +1 for the Gunks. |
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Seneca rocks, if you're in the area. Take care to test the rock quality of your holds and placements. Excessive rain and erosion have caused some rockfalls lately. |
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Eldo. |
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Just echoing Gunks and NRG. Even the cracks here are basically face climbs! |
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T-Wall |
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Moore’s Wall, NC! |
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Really I think the Gunks are just the best for this. At T-wall, NRG, or Red Rocks (the other mentioned placed I've been), the face trad is a side dish, but at the Gunks it's the main course. |
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B K wrote: After a trip to the New, I'm stoked on face-trad, as in, sporty climbs that are gear protected. Splitter cracks have gotten a bit old at this point. Out of curiosity, what face trad climbs did you get on at the New? |
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Weeping Wall and Sunshine Face at Suicide Rock. All bolt protected but believe me it’s trad. |
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Eldorado Canyon in Boulder, CO |
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Whitehorse Ledge, NH |
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Pembroke. |
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The whole state of NC is pretty much traditional face climbing. Much of it has bolts (specifically on the WNC granite domes) but the place is as trad as it gets. I live very near Eldo nowadays but I'd take NC rock over it any day. |
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B K wrote: Hmm I always figured the Needles were cracky. I'll have to check it out! Like all rock, there are cracks as well. But might you be thinking of the Needles in California? |
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nbrown wrote: The whole state of NC is pretty much traditional face climbing. Much of it has bolts (specifically on the WNC granite domes) but the place is as trad as it gets. I live very near Eldo nowadays but I'd take NC rock over it any day. But not NC weather Nathan! |
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One of my favorite 10s at the Gunks and totally underrated. Many people don’t even realize there is a climb there. Great face climbing and a little spicy. |
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Emil Briggs wrote: Yeah, that pretty much sucks! |
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Mount Lemmon in Tucson has a lot of face climbing trad routes. 758 trad routes listed on MP and you could probably count the number of true splitter cracks on one hand. |
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B K wrote: Hmm I always figured the Needles were cracky. I'll have to check it out! Needles in SD are not very crack-y, which leads to a great deal of "spice" and or mixed routes. To be sure, there are some pure crack climbs (Kamps Crack), but most are a combo of face with some cracks available for pro. |
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The Waterfall, AZ. |