Routes in the northeast FA'd/developed by women
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Curious to know about routes (or problems) out here developed, FA'd, and/or FFA'd by women. Any area, any grade. The only one I know of is Betty at the Gunks (FA Betty Woolsey and Fritz Wiessner, 1941), but I'm sure there are others! |
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Bonnies roof |
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Pretty sure Jan Conn was in on some early FAs in New England. Conncourse on Cannon, for example. |
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Cool! Just found this page with a list of climbs at the Gunks where women were part of the FA party. A bunch by Bonnie Prudden, several by Annie O'Neil (the name "Annie Oh!" makes so much sense now...), two by Lynn Hill, and a number of others. |
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Final Gesture on Cathedral by Lynn Hill.... mentioned in the guidebook as being a real "dent to local pride." |
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I don't have her book any more, so I can't check. But Miriam Underhill would be another possible FFAist. |
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Women have participated in plenty of FA's in the Adirondacks, but what I can think of that was developed and led by a woman (name appears first in credits): |
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It seems quite unusual for a woman to have led a FA, until you go back to the real "old days" with the likes of Mariam Underhill and Bonny Pruden. Here in NH I know of Susan Patenaude's FA lead of the crux pitch of Crazy Woman Driver (5.9 X, Nov. 1980) on Rainbow Slabs. Susan was also on several FA's, usually climbing with Ed Webster, such as Perfect Wave (5.7, 1980, Rainbow) . |
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Woolsey also put to the Woolsey Route on Roostercomb. Adirondack Rock references a testamonial that she was one of the best climbers of her time. At 5.8, her route was one of the hardest in the Northeast when done in 1941 (?) |
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These are super, please keep them coming! I've started compiling a list of the routes. Feel free to comment here or on the sheet with additions. |
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JD1984 wrote: Final Gesture on Cathedral by Lynn Hill.... mentioned in the guidebook as being a real "dent to local pride." Pretty sure you mean Tourist Treat. Final Gesture was much earlier and clocks in at 5.7+. Honestly, you can't even begin to compile a list like this. Too many over a broad geographical area encompassing nearly a century and many back-woodsy crags. I've FA'd with at least 4 women on lead. |
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chris magness wrote: That’s exactly what I meant! Haha! Thanks for clearing that up |
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Etha Williams wrote: These are super, please keep them coming! I've started compiling a list of the routes. Feel free to comment here or on the sheet with additions. Tourist Treat has been climbed.. a lot. |
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Etha Williams wrote: These are super, please keep them coming! I've started compiling a list of the routes. Feel free to comment here or on the sheet with additions. You will find many (sport) routes at Rumney and elsewhere FA'ed by women. Hardly surprising. |
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chris magness wrote: I was referring to Yellow Crack Direct at the Gunks, which this book described as unrepeated as of 2001, and for which a cursory google couldn't find a second ascent...though I wouldn't be surprised if it has had one.... As for this being an exercise in futility...yeah, as far as an even complete-ish list goes, probably (especially the "women as part of the FA party" list). Still kind of interesting to see what's out there--to me, at least, and maybe to a few others. Plus, I have to find some way to avoid working when it's too hot to climb. |
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Symbiotic Seven 5.7 Bear Rock, CT, Michelle Chappel |
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Isa Oehry has about 30ish FFA's some of which are also FA's. generally if it needed bolts I would grovel up it on lead with generous aid and get the shiny things in Isa would then follow it and get a feel for it then lead it free. Many of these climbs I was not strong enough or brave enough to lead free so she was / is a vital part of the team. some of the lines like Perigan Dihedral on Mt horrid are straight up trad lines that she on sighted. Many sport climbs that I bolted then she got the FFA P1 Norwegian star 10a |
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Etha Williams wrote: These are super, please keep them coming! I've started compiling a list of the routes. Feel free to comment here or on the sheet with additions. I do believe (Ward Smith, please chime in) Paula King has multiple FAs and FFAs at Rumney, as well as several other NE crags. I also think Lisa Conway nabbed the FFA of Liquid Sky at Cathedral. |
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For a complete list of who participated in what: http://www.adirondackrock.com/fas.htm. The number of FA's with women listed has to be in the hundreds |
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thought liquid sky was Jimmy Surette? |
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Ancient Way, Ragged Mountain CT - FA: Betty Woolsey, Roger Whitney, Donald Brown (1935) |