New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #7

dragons wrote:

Name that slab, please?

Just another Sierra slab. Got a million of them.

Emigrant Wall.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: 

Just another Sierra slab. Got a million of them.

Emigrant Wall.

Correction Mr. Boondoggle, it's a million one...

On a Yosemite route Sentinel Rock on Steck-Salathe (I believe) a route described several times as 5.10e? Never heard of this. Anyone??? 

10- lol 

Jeffrey Constine wrote: 10- lol 

Well, that's the thing.  Two good climbers called it a "10e".  Is there some new kind of grading of special routes?  Maybe something to do with lots of scrambling and hiking involved?

Or maybe they're both idiots. (But they are seasoned climbers.)  This was an invite.

Lori Milas wrote:

Well, that's the thing.  Two good climbers called it a "10e".  Is there some new kind of grading of special routes?  Maybe something to do with lots of scrambling and hiking involved?

Or maybe they're both idiots. (But they are seasoned climbers.)  This was an invite.

10e is a joking way of saying 10+.

5.10e asy

Or just use the old guidebooks when is was rated 5.9.  That will make it easier  

Good lord.    Learning to lead climb in the gym is a real headache.  A feel like a kindergartner again.  This video thing is SO helpful for me... cringe-worthy at times but helpful--so here is the evidence that I screwed up.  I have now climbed 4 indoor routes (2 10c's), ALL perfectly, except... damn, I let the rope slip behind my heel for one nanosecond at the very top of the 4th route.  NO SOUP FOR YOU!     This is, apparently, a serious crime. (Is it for everyone?  And would this be a game-ender outside?)   I felt it, got my foot around the rope... moved on. 

I'm heading for the mountains tomorrow to climb on REAL rock where I can feed my soul and the rope police are not so vigilant.  I need to know how I'm really doing. (Damn. I also miss the desert).
 

It’s just a number it’s just a letter no big deal not that important

Russ Walling wrote:

Just means it is a sandbag at 5.10 whatever... beauty of it is the route is industry standard for 5.9.  Yer pals probably struggled on it, thus the "e" rating.  It's a joke rating meaning it is simply hard.

Kinda like Figures on a Landscape... this thing could be called 5.10e... scary and hard moves in a couple spots.  Great 

 I would say figures is more like E- Not really that bad

Lori, just watch this vintage video and you've got it all handled. Who knows, Constine might even make a cameo in it.

Lori Milas wrote: Good lord.    Learning to lead climb in the gym is a real headache.  A feel like a kindergartner again.  This video thing is SO helpful for me... cringe-worthy at times but helpful--so here is the evidence that I screwed up.  I have now climbed 4 indoor routes (2 10c's), ALL perfectly, except... damn, I let the rope slip behind my heel for one nanosecond at the very top of the 4th route.  NO SOUP FOR YOU!     This is, apparently, a serious crime. (Is it for everyone?  And would this be a game-ender outside?)   I felt it, got my foot around the rope... moved on.

I'm heading for the mountains tomorrow to climb on REAL rock where I can feed my soul and the rope police are not so vigilant.  I need to know how I'm really doing. (Damn. I also miss the desert).
 

A fall only takes a nanosecond to happen.

The rope behind your leg will most likely flip you upside down, resulting in smacking the back of your head into the rock.

Wear a Helmet until you get rid of that bad habit. In the gym also.
You always have to be aware of the way the rope is running.
And, everything else around you rather than just focus on just climbing.

Lori Milas wrote: Good lord.    Learning to lead climb in the gym is a real headache.  A feel like a kindergartner again.  This video thing is SO helpful for me... cringe-worthy at times but helpful--so here is the evidence that I screwed up.  I have now climbed 4 indoor routes (2 10c's), ALL perfectly, except... damn, I let the rope slip behind my heel for one nanosecond at the very top of the 4th route.  NO SOUP FOR YOU!     This is, apparently, a serious crime. (Is it for everyone?  And would this be a game-ender outside?)   I felt it, got my foot around the rope... moved on.

I'm heading for the mountains tomorrow to climb on REAL rock where I can feed my soul and the rope police are not so vigilant.  I need to know how I'm really doing. (Damn. I also miss the desert).
 

It happens.  It's only a game changer if you fall :-)

You're CRUSHING BTW!!!

Carl Schneider wrote:

It happens.  It's only a game changer if you fall :-)

You're CRUSHING BTW!!!

I haven’t experienced doubt on this climbing thing until now. (So thank you for your kind words.). Rewatching video I see everything right until that moment.  This is “mock leading “ so it wasn’t a possibility to fall... and only my second time actually on the wall clipping draws.  But if it can NEVER happen...  I don’t know if I can guarantee that. Sometime, somewhere I could step under a rope for a second. 

I’m going to give this a little more time...

Lori Milas wrote:

I haven’t experienced doubt on this climbing thing until now. (So thank you for your kind words.). Rewatching video I see everything right until that moment.  This is “mock leading “ so it wasn’t a possibility to fall... and only my second time actually on the wall clipping draws.  But if it can NEVER happen...  I don’t know if I can guarantee that. Sometime, somewhere I could step under a rope for a second. 

I’m going to give this a little more time...

Falling with the rope behind your ankle isn't a "Can never happen." It's just a thing you should avoid. 

Señor Arroz wrote:

Falling with the rope behind your ankle isn't a "Can never happen." It's just a thing you should avoid. 

I was going to say the same thing.  We all make mistakes.  I have a video of me trad leading a grade 21 where I have the rope behind my leg two or three times! The great thing is in the video, my belayer alerts me to it each time, which I see as part of the job of belaying.  

Lori, 'mock leading' is a great way to learn, but it IS possible that on the actual lead something called your logical mind MAY get in the way and cause some issues.  As you are likely aware, the grades that you safely, comfortably, confidently lead (either sports or trad) may be lower than those you top rope.

You're doing great with your climbing, I wish I was still as psyched!

https://youtu.be/eQYf_b7tQfM

Lori, the only fall I've gone entirely upside down on, a tumbling spin, was my very last move the night my gym closed! But, the move I attempted was an all points flying dyno, way up high, and quite past vertical. Falling into empty air. Sooooo fun! Big beery cheering section was definitely a huge plus, I admit it.

Outside, I've been entirely horizontal a couple times, and that, on top rope. Don't sweat this, you are getting great body awareness, just keep dragging that rope along behind you, and that rope and fall awareness will come. You will need to be thinking fall consequences ahead of moving up, preferably before you climb into a predicament. Even on top rope, you can set up a swing into something unpleasant if you are off to the side far enough. A sense of how far you will go will help you judge when you need to back off and fix whatever it is. 

And yeah....road trip. Dunno when, but I do want to meet people, as it can be worked out!

Best, Helen

Maybe TenS - E is what you heard? But 10c is what was meant?

Naw, it's a case of all 5.10 not being equal.

There is Maxine's Wall 5.10a and there is Chingando 5.10a...and the two have never met.