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Best guide for Tensleep?

Original Post
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

What is the best guide for Tensleep?? the only one I found on Amazon is from 2009?
Thanks, Nick

Colin OBrien · · Maine · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 155

You can buy “punk rock ten sleep” from the bighorn climbers coalition for $25, or buy it in town at dirty Sally’s for the same.  Best guide right now.  Same as the Bible but 75 cheaper, and has lake point.  

Crab 6 is on rakkup.  Supposed to be good.  

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

This is the one Nick.

https://bighornclimbers.org/guidebook/​​​

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

cool. thanks.   Jason, do you have the link handy to your cody  guide? hopeing you will be feeling well enough to get out with us sometime in June???

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

I think you meant this   

Stephen Lander · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 12

Seconding Rakkup. It had all of the info we wanted, was easier to use than the bible, and the GPS navigation was really helpful for finding the exact sector you're looking for.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Get the book - 100% goes to the local climbing organization.  

NCD · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 50

When I was there last summer I heard the owner of The Rock Ranch was working on a new guide book. Any update or truth to this?

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
NCD wrote: When I was there last summer I heard the owner of The Rock Ranch was working on a new guide book. Any update or truth to this?

Louie is working on a new guidebook, with Aaron's blessing.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

If you buy the Rakkup Guide through the Rakkup website, it is a couple dollars cheaper than getting them through your app store. You can also just rent them for a few bucks.

Both the Cody and Tensleep Rakkups are excellent.

Rakkup Tensleep​​​

Rakkup Cody​​​

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

not huge on the cellphone guide rather get a book even if its out of date. I am kind of old;)

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

Tensleep route development is happening so fast (100 plus routes a year) that any guide will be out of date.  The Punk Rock (sold through the BHCC) guide will have plenty to keep you busy for 15 or 20 years.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

likely only be there a day or two so in reality if its anything like Rumny you don't need a book you simply ask people what you should get on for the grade your interested in. I do like supporting guide authors though..

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,052

Nick...the Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing guidebook by Louie Anderson is hot off the presses in 2019. It's an awesome guidebook.

Daniel Heins · · Seattle · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 1,254
Benjamin Chapman wrote: Nick...the Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing guidebook by Louie Anderson is hot off the presses in 2019. It's an awesome guidebook.

You might want to think carefully if you want to be supporting Louie Anderson based on his track record of manufacturing routes in the area. I'm not trying to derail this thread into a rehash of that one, but I do think it is pertinent information in choosing a guidebook.

Daniel Heins · · Seattle · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 1,254

I mean when buying a product it's reasonably fair to think about both the quality of said product and whether you want to be supporting the producer of said product (especially if your qualms are relevant to the product itself). I'll fully admit, I haven't been to Ten Sleep in almost a year, and when I was there I only used the Punk Rock guide. It got the job done, which is good enough for me to place it above supporting wholesale manufacturing of routes. I'm not telling anyone else that they have to use that same valuation, but I'm know I'm not the only one that would consider it pertinent information.

I suppose we can agree that Louie definitely does seem to have taken the skills of indoor route setting and applied them outdoors...

(Edit: This was in response to a since deleted comment that I failed to quote)

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
Benjamin Chapman wrote: Nick...the Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing guidebook by Louie Anderson is hot off the presses in 2019. It's an awesome guidebook.

It’s not really an awesome guidebook. Feels rushed, bolt counts are frequently off and approach descriptions/route location is ambiguous at best at times. Some crags aren’t even named correctly based on the original names given in Aaron Huey’s guidebooks.


Additionally none of the funds go back to the canyon. 
Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

Define "best".

Most entertaining guidebook I've read was probably Huey's, Punk Rock.... stuff. I'd go with that. Plus $$$ goes to the local coalition. Always a good thing. In terms of purely guidebook it's average. If you're there for less than like a year it's more than enough to keep you busy on mostly 4-5 star routes anyways.

As for Louis Anderson well the guy's been busted chipping rock & drilling finger pockets, so I'd have a hard time justifiying to myself spending cash to support that. Depends on your climbing ethos of course!

Neil L · · Casper, wy · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1

Pretty sure Nick's trip of "a day or two" that he posted about over a year ago occurred already. Typical Benjamin...

Trevor stuart · · Denver · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 105
Go Back to Super Topo wrote:

It’s not really an awesome guidebook. Feels rushed, bolt counts are frequently off and approach descriptions/route location is ambiguous at best at times. Some crags aren’t even named correctly based on the original names given in Aaron Huey’s guidebooks.


Additionally none of the funds go back to the canyon. 

i've owned both 2019 guidebooks and anderson does a better job and has more areas than huey's guidebook. i ended up selling huey's because i was always reaching for the anderson one.

Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
trevor stuart wrote:

i've owned both 2019 guidebooks and anderson does a better job and has more areas than huey's guidebook. i ended up selling huey's because i was always reaching for the anderson one.

Because Huey eliminated the manufactured areas like Funky Town, Trump Tower, Powers Wall, etc...lmao

Huey's guide has enough info (along with entertainment and support for the BHCC) that if you can't get around TS with it, then you are a complete idiot. I also beg to differ that Anderson's book is better, if you want a good example: look at the jungle gym in both books and tell me you can honestly differentiate b/w routes with Louie's book.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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