Rokjox Teleski wrote: h., so you can be annoying after all. =======================================================================================
I promised you a good time, not a crippling one. I would have taken care of you. And whoever was our chaperone. You let your imagination get the best of you when I asked a couple questions about ability. I was going to tailor something appropriate, once I knew what that was. I think it would have been a gift, but for what I have no idea. I get odd ideas on occasion.
I am just feeling a little peeved right now, and I am misdirecting it. I read your answer upthread; and I have no reason, except that I have had this again happen once before and I am wondering how I must be presenting myself.
I aint getting out enough.
Dont worry, I am over it.
I dont post my trips for points, I dont send a lot of photos into the intardnet to make it easy to "follow me". I worry only vaguely about what rating I climb at, so long as I am sufficient to the task I am working on. I spent a very long stretch where I didnt have to ask for a partner or hunt for someone to amuse; them or me. I had partners of many sorts. I was pretty and a little in demand... I held my own. my dates had fun. Usually.
A lot of trips now are just recon, trying to find new places and they are flops... take a lot of time. Dont find something. Or find the wrong way. ((Or have the Army show up, ask that we not shoot their soldiers, put a squad APV guard on our vehicle, and run a military exercise around us as we squatted underground, inches away from passing armor.))
I tend to have stupid, unlikely things happen on occasions. Never know when, but you have to go somewhere to have it happen.
All I really need is someone to run a map, open gates, close gates, push through mud, operate a shovel occasionally and talk at, while walking around looking for something. Someone who doesnt step on rattlesnakes... someone who can drive if I do. Or get stuck trying to crawl into some small hole looking for a larger hole. Or provide some side stoke for something to keep me simmering. I can be talked into a lot of stupid stuff, historically.
I swear, the paper and pencil noteboard outside the Sunnyside C4 kiosk was a hella lot better than digital dating sites. What? I gotta have people sign non-disclosure agreements?
This is actually quite nice. Your offer, earlier, and the preambles, were also quite nice. I'm sure you would have taken care of me, chaperone??!? No need.
Here's the problem. I like, and respect, you. Which means I would not adventure into those tight spaces....because I would not be capable of taking care of you. I have been very, very careful to not risk my partners, who are with someone who may not even be able to walk back to the car, if that's the day my knees quit. And I just mean the Black Cliffs. I will risk more, sometimes, but those are people I know very, very well and I am very close to. Only three people on that list at the moment. I am deeply honored that you were even remotely willing to have me on your "rattlesnake" list.
Too bad my son is recently married and his life suddenly got busy. He is very much the same adventurer as you, and often solo on top of it. And very, very, capable.
Your kindnesses were very appreciated, and helped a lot. The last few years...tough is an understatement.
Wish you the best, coffee or lunch offer still stands, I am always up for meeting people.
Mark Orsag wrote: Rain shut me down early at Rushmore today. Tomorrow’s forecast looks much better. Scouting between raindrops turned up three really interesting looking hard slabs that should suit me. Temps should be in 60s— perfect. Please stay dry tomorrow!
Mark I hope today turned out to be your day. I don’t know how I missed the memo but unlike indoor climbing we climbers have to deal with weather. I know you’ve been looking forward to your trip for a long time. Let us know how it’s going!!!
—— On another note Pipeworks has raised the bar again: now they want a “comfortable 11b or c” to take the lead test. That’s FINE. They can raise it all they want—I’ll catch up. I’m climbing 11’s now but not quite enough. Will try to get on this before the new rules are “comfortable 12’s” which might take a minute. I’ve been thinking about a talk I had with Chris this weekend while climbing at Donner. He vividly described a fall if it occurred just short of a bolt 20 feet up. That could be a 50 foot fall all in. Ouch??? It seems the universe is conspiring against my lead climbing. Maybe it’s the “old” thing. Do I look that fragile? My patience is wearing thin.
Lori Milas wrote: Back here at home, back to climbing (it's a hard return )...Watching videos has been enormously helpful in understanding my own climbing, since what I am 'feeling' while climbing looks nothing like what I see on playback. For awhile at least, videos are helping a lot.
I see that I just climb too slowly, and ponder too much... looking for holds, sequences, trying to decide if i can handle a move in front of me... and so my strength runs out. On some recent indoor climbs I am now watching for places I could move quickly through a sequence so I have the reserves to muscle up the remainder of the climb. I climbed my first 11a clean this week, simply because I decided to keep on moving, and not stop to ponder.
And on Sunday, up at Donner... on a 5.9 face... there were moves that required decisive action and confidence or take a fall. I made the determination to move through it quickly... It's like "roll over onto that foot and STAND UP NOW". So, I stood up and kept moving.
So much of these lessons roll right into life. The need to call some shots, to take action, to move before the opportunity is gone. Yet to decipher between recklessness and strength. Growing up here... (aren't we all?)
PS. Oh! I built my own anchors and rappelled from my climbs ... first time with backup belay... surprised that it was really so easy. Feeling much better about it all. Thank you to all.
I's great you're considering the speed at which you climb. Ondra has a great video on climbing rhythm, and I love to watch him climb, he's fast when he needs to be and rests where he should, such great rhythm...
Rokjox Teleski wrote: It was a lot more fun when you got to tie some timid cameraman up high to the crag for an hour or two while you warmed up and ran the lap.
This sport aint all that it once was.
Prompted by a copy of your post by Helen i looked up your profile thingy here. Made me laugh :-)
Mark I hope today turned out to be your day. I don’t know how I missed the memo but unlike indoor climbing we climbers have to deal with weather. I know you’ve been looking forward to your trip for a long time. Let us know how it’s going!!!
—— On another note Pipeworks has raised the bar again: now they want a “comfortable 11b or c” to take the lead test. That’s FINE. They can raise it all they want—I’ll catch up. I’m climbing 11’s now but not quite enough. Will try to get on this before the new rules are “comfortable 12’s” which might take a minute. I’ve been thinking about a talk I had with Chris this weekend while climbing at Donner. He vividly described a fall if it occurred just short of a bolt 20 feet up. That could be a 50 foot fall all in. Ouch??? It seems the universe is conspiring against my lead climbing. Maybe it’s the “old” thing. Do I look that fragile? My patience is wearing thin.
5.11 standard is nuts. Just my opinion.
Some climbing routes -- bolted as well as trad -- are more run-out than others. To get started leading, pick bolted ones that resemble gym routes or cracks you can lace up (even if your second hates you for it).
Weather held yesterday. Climbed really well- particularly for just getting on this rock here at Rushmore this year. Definitely above the norm, in terms of runout and grade stiffness. Got 9 pitches in... some were old faves like Fintastic 7+ and Burley Buttress 10-. Both excellent climbs 3 star climbs. A physical 10 called Warthog that was new for me (that route wasn’t on MP but soon will be) was a flash. My project route for the day was a devious 10d/10+ called Cricket Fling. Also not on MP...Sustained thoughtful 5.10 slab with a distinct brutally awkward crux move. Blew that move on the first attempt but got revenge 2nd try. Will try to post some pics when trip is done. Led a 5.6 R yesterday that was a super fun climb if you didn’t think about what would happen if you fell before clipping bolt #2. 40 feet of deck with bolt #1 15 feet off deck!
Mark Orsag · 44 mins ago ·Wrote: Crux sequence was to power right over the bulge just below top to a single small crystal pinch. Then stretch bump up left to two trashy holds. Stretched out with feet trapped under lip of bulge. Pull/smear through to a left high step and back long right to a mass of small crystals. Awkward as hell!
sICK, sounds sketchy but, ~ U know, that ~
- it is very high friction rock,
still try to not get your feet "handcuffed" stuck under a lip/bulge, while reaching
Crux sequence was to power right over the bulge just below top to a single small crystal pinch. Then stretch bump up left to two trashy holds. Stretched out with feet trapped under lip of bulge. Pull/smear through to a left high step and back long right to a mass of small crystals. Awkward as hell!
It's summertime... and not much different from the summer of 1969. Back then, we were taking love where we could find it... but we had a long life ahead. Listening to Janis today, she defines again this time of life... is there anyone for whom this is not a 'get it while you can' time of life?
I had no idea that I would re-emerge with so much energy and readiness to go all out at this age. In the climbing world, we're saying goodbye to another person who went all out... and those of us still remaining continue to do so. Watching Jeffrey, Mark, Senor, Dallas, dragons, Erika, Wendy, Carl... Rich and all the rest here (Helen!)... celebrating the fact that we still have breath and ability. This is just not what I thought 'old' would be.
I's great you're considering the speed at which you climb. Ondra has a great video on climbing rhythm, and I love to watch him climb, he's fast when he needs to be and rests where he should, such great rhythm...
Carl.... how are you doing? Are you over your blues yet?
Something has radically changed for me in the last few weeks, both indoors and out. I'm at a loss. I feel like it was just a decision to move... to be more decisive, and stop wasting time. Truly, just a conscious decision to pick up the pace. Also, I'm embarrassed to say, it's taken me this long to understand the value of reading routes from the ground first. (I don't know how well this works outdoors). Worked on an overhung route yesterday at the gym I was sure would be too hard... but I could see that the crux was a series of holds getting onto the headwall, and it had to go left hand on first hold, match hands, reach left, right, left, and then reach out right. Working that out on the ground allowed me to get through it before I lost strength. Just a little forethought, curiosity and playfulness. And gratitude.
As a fellow slab aficionado, thought you would appreciate. Very good climb. Maybe ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️s out of four. Bit of munge at the bottom and Super sustained 10ish slab moves for 50 feet. Followed by 10 ft. Of harder crux with one cussedly awkward move. Got my eye on an 11b/c slab once I have my full granite legs!
As a fellow slab aficionado, thought you would appreciate. Very good climb. Maybe ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️s out of four. Bit of munge at the bottom and Super sustained 10ish slab moves for 50 feet. Followed by 10 ft. Of harder crux with one cussedly awkward move. Got my eye on an 11b/c slab once I have my full granite legs!
Oh, Mark... we are cut of the same cloth and I hope your trip is getting better by the minute! It is true that no sooner do I come down from a ridiculously hard climb than my eye is on a much harder, more impossible route. It's the nature of this addiction... and there is no 12-step program for it. Have fun! Report in as you can!!!
I hope everyone has a great weekend, Thursday climbing was a blast got in around 950 feet of climbing nobody around multi pitch all day and a few single pitches weather was nice at 7000’
We use cookies to improve your browsing experience, to show you
personalized content, and for statistical purposes. By continuing
to navigate our website, you accept our use of cookies. Read our
Privacy Policy to learn more.
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
