Needles

Greetings -

Starting to plan a first trip to the Needles. Looking to go for a three day weekend - ideally in late June or early July. Is the road snow free yet? Will it be too hot in July? When is the *best* time to go?

Thank you,

Cara 

Cara.... have fun.

Scroll down the So Cal deal, you can find what you’re looking for tel numbers info etc.

Get the GB or you will be lost.

www.kdanielspublishing.com 

Definitely get the guidebook. You can get in more or less anytime after Memorial Day, which is usually the latest they open the gate. I’ve climbed south facing routes in the middle of summer and not been too hot. If you’re climbing in the shade, even in the middle of July, you still might want a jacket. Have fun. It’s an amazing and intimidating place.

Road was impassible may 4 weekend. Looked like it would be ready by early June though.

Climbed on Dome Rock yesterday, just adjacent to he needles. Weather was so rad. Wasn’t much snow up there at all. I’d say go for it

I was hoping to go this weekend and Just spoke with the ranger today 21S05 is still closed.  He said crews may be going to start working on it this weekend and Maybee it will be open in 2 weeks.

Any updates on the whether or not the road is open and if open the condition?

Road not open yet

FYI - as of today (6/10/19), 21S05 is still closed but 22S82 (Lloyd Meadows Rd, which you take to get to close to Voodoo Dome) is open. You can camp anywhere North of Lower Peppermint campground; just avoid areas with lots of pine needles (evidence of bark beetles).

With the first real “Heat wave” .... occurring now the offending snow will be history soon!
With something like 200% snow pack, and lots of unmelted snow still at 6-7 thousand feet we will be treated to a huge runoff. I was up in Domelands last weekend- water everywhere, every little creek was flowing. So the place will “self open very soon”

But a Question for Alex... why not camp close to pine needles? The great bivi spots where Needle Rock Creek crosses 22S82 are-and have always been- nice soft pine needle beds. So I don’t understand your warning. Something changed?

Climb on

It's been a crazy year.  They got snow in Camp Nelson (a couple of thousand feet lower down the road than the Needles) on Memorial Day weekend.  Normally it's starting to feel pretty warm by then.  

I think the warning about the pine needles is that the tree is dead or dying so branches may be falling off next.  PG & E cut down just about every pine tree in town since pretty much all of them died from the drought and bark beetles.  The pines seemed to be hardest hit.  

Guy Keesee wrote:
But a Question for Alex... why not camp close to pine needles? The great bivi spots where Needle Rock Creek crosses 22S82 are-and have always been- nice soft pine needle beds. So I don’t understand your warning. Something changed?

Hey guys

Not to hijack the thread, but would the Tree Route be a good time for someone totally new to trad? I mean, is it low angle enough you could sort of slab climb through the cracks here and there? OR do you have to jam?

Just got the guidebook ... can't wait to get down there !!!

Tree route is very low angle, and you can sew it up aside from the last pitch. Good route to get started on crack. 

The Tree Route is a terrific route.  As Paul suggests, however, the last pitch is runout but easy low angle stuff after the first 20 ft. or so (one bolt).  I think you can get a gold C4 (if I remember correctly) higher up when you step over a little roof, but that's about it from what I can remember.   Bring at least a couple green C4s for the second pitch.  The crack is consistently that size for about half the pitch, and one piece of that size is handy for the belay.  Features here and there but that pitch will be easier if you can jam.  

Cool, thank you both. Will have a partner doing their first multi-pitch, so just wanted to suss it out a little more than usual. Low angle crack sounds like a good intro. to jamming!

jt newgard wrote: Cool, thank you both. Will have a partner doing their first multi-pitch, so just wanted to suss it out a little more than usual. Low angle crack sounds like a good intro. to jamming!

Jeff, you’ll only need a smaller piece I think .3 to protect the little traverse, then 2 .5’s, 2 .75’s for the second pitch. Just keep bumping

Thanks Jeff! Good thing I can bump with the best of 'em .... the ol toprope-lead .... haha.

Give me a heads up if you're ever down Woodson way!

Any word on the main road gate "self opening" with all of this warm weather?

Thinking of escaping the sierra mosquitos and checking out the Needles for the first time Friday-Wed.

I'm curious:
• Are low 80s climbable temps in the Needles (shaded areas etc.)?
• How easy is it to drop in and find camping?

Thanks!!

The hiking is hot.... it gets cold in the shade, be ready for T-storms.
Lots of camping everywhere from pay sites to primitive, bring your shovel.
End of the road is “official” climbers spot with pit toilet. Can be very crowded with climbers- if you like that.
I like to camp at Dome Rock.... really good Late afternoon till dark climbs to do.
Have fun