Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE

dnoB ekiM wrote: To add to Eli’s comment,I have found with my setup that the closer the lower bolt is to inline with the top bolt.. the better.  I actually had to resort to using a more traditional set-up in my first use.  

Yours will be more tolerant as the biner is more free to move.  In my case, the captive pin interacts with the hanger too easily if the bolts are very much off axis at all.  

Look forward to hearing how yours works and what can be done better.

Personally I prefer to put a chain-link between so it´s all more flexible, this one is with a 12mm chain link below for threading through.

Got out again today to replace some bolts that didn't look too bad before winter but now looked worse. I know they're both 3/8" PS so they would have to get replaced someday so I figured I might as well replace them now with some SS 1/2".

Here's what it was 

Nice work Eli,
I was also lucky enough to get out today. Among other things I pulled some split shafts with SMC hangers. (See photos) I was amused that one of the anchors that I replaced had both the "bad" and the "good" SMC hangers.

Nice job dude! Even if it doesn't have the safety issues of the older version, the "good" smc hangers are still kinda crappy hangers. They're too small and still kind of on the thin side so it gouges you're biners more than modern hangers. Are those glue-ins wave bolts or titt bolts?

Thanks. The new hardware are 1/2 but 4 inch Titt bolts.
I was unpleasantly surprised with how easy it was to remove the bolts attached to the SMC hangers. I have had a harder time getting 16 penny nails out of pine than those split shafts out of granite. 

Hope ya'll have been collecting your chips for the coming season! Remember to take pictures!

An anchor in the Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany.

Thread revitalization!

just curious, what advantage does this approach have over a chain connecting both bolts? Seems like there would be more wear on the hardware

The theory is that the top piece (in this case an easily replaceable rams horn) takes all the wear and the lower piece acts as a back up and hopefully sees very little wear. I found chain to be pretty irritating to use bc I had to cut and carry so many different lengths to get the right length for each anchor placement. Not to mention how much money i wasted on cutting links.  This system stands out less on the cliffs.

Bobby Hutton wrote:Modified French Style anchor I have been trying out.

Awesome

What is the thought with the carabiner laying against the rock as shown?  Seems like this will result in a twisted rope...?

Also, how is the lower carabiner replaced?  

I haven't had any issues with twisting yet. I will try and get a photo of them with a rope threaded thru, that should make more sense. The hope is that the lower carabiner won't need to get replaced as the rams horn should take the bulk of the wear.  If I am wrong I will zap it off with an angle grinder and replace it either with a captive pin carabiner or a few quick links and a mussy. 

Luke Bertelsen wrote: What is the thought with the carabiner laying against the rock as shown?  Seems like this will result in a twisted rope...?

Also, how is the lower carabiner replaced?  

Since it's not weighted by the rope nor does it cause much if any deflection, there's no twisting involved.  It's basically like an unloaded QD and even lays the same way on the rock.  

Luke Bertelsen wrote: What is the thought with the carabiner laying against the rock as shown?  Seems like this will result in a twisted rope...?

Also, how is the lower carabiner replaced?  

I snapped a few pics when I was out putting in a new route today. Excuse the fact that the bolts aren't glued in yet and my static work rope.

Bobby Hutton wrote:

I snapped a few pics when I was out putting in a new route today. Excuse the fact that the bolts aren't glued in yet and my static work rope.

Nice work! Excited to see this concept out there in the wild.  Very solid anchor with minimal parts.  Looks great!!!  Seems you have them aligned very much inline on the vertical axis which is pretty much required to avoid wear on the -biner as well as twisting and other weirdness.  

dnoB ekiM wrote:

Nice work! Excited to see this concept out there in the wild.  Very solid anchor with minimal parts.  Looks great!!!  Seems you have them aligned very much inline on the vertical axis which is pretty much required to avoid wear on the -biner as well as twisting and other weirdness.  

Thanks for the inspiration!

 I have been using them as TR anchors and have noticed no twisting so far. This area doesn't get enough climbing yet so I have yet to see any wear on any of the SS components.