Yet Another Bolt Remover

cleatis wrote:

I've sold all of them!  I've had a few people since then want one, so perhaps another run is justified if I can get enough numbers.  I'll make a list and put you on it.

Keep us posted.  I'd likely be interested as as well

Put me down for one on a second batch.

i would be interested in buying one. Jackness2015@gmail.com

I've got another engineer involved, we are investigating potential methods to attach the puller directly to the spinner tool to reduce the switch over time (which to me is the most tedious/painful part of the process).  We would also roll out the hemispherical front face at the same time.  I'll keep everyone posted, but hopefully we will get it figured out in time to run a batch this winter and ready for next season.

cleatis wrote: I've got another engineer involved, we are investigating potential methods to attach the puller directly to the spinner tool to reduce the switch over time (which to me is the most tedious/painful part of the process).  We would also roll out the hemispherical front face at the same time.  I'll keep everyone posted, but hopefully we will get it figured out in time to run a batch this winter and ready for next season.

I've just been using two devices. One set up for each task.

MorganH wrote:

I've just been using two devices. One set up for each task.

But you still have to switch between the two in some fashion, right? My goal is to pull the drill off and push on the puller with no unthreading/rethreading. If you have solved this already, I'd love to see what you have done!

cleatis wrote: ... the switch over time (which to me is the most tedious/painful part of the process).  ...

Are you removing the coupling nut from the wedge bolt, then screwing on a separate coupling nut that is connected to the puller? The method I have been using/teaching is 

• attach the spinner
• spin
• while the drill is still connected, stop spinning and hold the coupling nut with a crescent wrench
• put the drill in reverse and back the SDS adapter off the coupling nut
• screw the puller tool onto the coupling nut 

In the video it didn't look much more difficult than placing a good bolt. This is a much needed tool and gives me hope that removing bolts can be done clean and simple.This allows bolting to move forward without the fear of emotional reactors who freak out and think they need to "nip it in the bud." Let a route hang around for a few years and see if it really is a BAD bolt. Eventually all the bad ones can go and the GOOD ones can stay. Way to go you engineers out there doing the thinking and producing functional gear!

Gregger Man wrote:

Are you removing the coupling nut from the wedge bolt, then screwing on a separate coupling nut that is connected to the puller? The method I have been using/teaching is 

• attach the spinner
• spin
• while the drill is still connected, stop spinning and hold the coupling nut with a crescent wrench
• put the drill in reverse and back the SDS adapter off the coupling nut
• screw the puller tool onto the coupling nut 

If you have to remove the coupling nut from a semi-damaged, loose wedge bolt and then screw on a different one while holding the bolt in place with tweezers or needle-nosed pliers - yes, that sucks.

Unfortunately that’s how my spinner and Hurley from the Access Fund work. The spinner coupler nut has different diameter threads and is too big to fit into the Hurley. Needle nose vise grips usually do the trick, but sometimes it’s a pain

cleatis wrote:

But you still have to switch between the two in some fashion, right? My goal is to pull the drill off and push on the puller with no unthreading/rethreading. If you have solved this already, I'd love to see what you have done!

Yeah, I still have to switch. That would be way better.

cleatis wrote:

But you still have to switch between the two in some fashion, right? My goal is to pull the drill off and push on the puller with no unthreading/rethreading. If you have solved this already, I'd love to see what you have done!

So you're basically thinking of some kind of female SDS adapter on the end of the puller itself? 

Gregger Man wrote:

Are you removing the coupling nut from the wedge bolt, then screwing on a separate coupling nut that is connected to the puller? The method I have been using/teaching is 

• attach the spinner
• spin
• while the drill is still connected, stop spinning and hold the coupling nut with a crescent wrench
• put the drill in reverse and back the SDS adapter off the coupling nut
• screw the puller tool onto the coupling nut 

If you have to remove the coupling nut from a semi-damaged, loose wedge bolt and then screw on a different one while holding the bolt in place with tweezers or needle-nosed pliers - yes, that sucks.

Yes Greg, that is the way I do it too.  I just don't like the crescent wrench part and rethreading the doodad back on.  I am hoping to design a part that slips over the SDS and grabs onto the slim gap between the coupling nut and the SDS adapter.  First step is to run a FEA on the part and see if it will be strong enough.  Do you have an estimate of how much force is necessary to pull a properly spun bolt?  

It varies by wedge type - the KB3 has such a nicely machined smooth ramp that they take more spinning and harder pulling. A Home Depot special can usually be spun for 15 seconds and pull with <1.000 lbs of axial, I'd guess. Rusty ones with fixed collars go for less than 500 lbs without spinning sometimes (one finger on the handle of the Doodad).
I agree that ergonomics and streamlining the process are the key to efficiency (just like aid climbing systems) - you may be barking up the wrong tree with this attempt. You will end up with a custom machined part that will have one source, and the tool bottleneck is a bigger issue than time lost re-threading the coupling nut. That said, if you find something off the shelf in the automotive department like the Mo-Clamp 1340 (but cheaper) - this might be an improvement.
​Mo-Clamp 1340​​​

My extractor is already custom machined parts so adding another one doesn't concern me.  The additional cost should be less than 20$.  I find that about half of the bolts I pull bind on extraction and need to get re-spun. If this wasn't the case, unthreading and rethreading wouldn't bug me so much but I find it to be the worst part of pulling bolts (until I bloody my knuckles, that is).  

Yeah, rock type might affect that propensity to re-engage, too. Spinning the handle often feels like watching a roulette wheel go around. Ya never know until you finally win or lose.

Gregger Man wrote: Yeah, rock type might affect that propensity to re-engage, too. Spinning the handle often feels like watching a roulette wheel go around. Ya never know until you finally win or lose.

Ha! That is exactly the feeling!

cleatis wrote:

Ha! That is exactly the feeling!

Would it be too expensive to add an SDS chuck to the extractor? Or are they not designed to handle the pulling forces?

You would need to hold onto the adapter using just the two shallow indentations that look like they are meant for a spring-loaded ball bearing.
Call me skeptical. 

Gregger Man wrote: You would need to hold onto the adapter using just the two shallow indentations that look like they are meant for a spring-loaded ball bearing.
Call me skeptical. 

Exactly. Those bearings aren't designed for outward pull and strip out quite easily. Also, most SDS chucks only have one bearing.

Yes, my plan is to grab onto gap between the hex shaped part of the SDS and the coupler. If this part can't be made strong enough, we might have to put a washer shaped part in between the two and grab onto that instead.