Post Awesome Trad Movies Here #2

Chris Owen wrote:

I know they did a few of the high E classics, I'm not sure of how many Pearson's routes they repeated (maybe they should have tried "Walk of Life"). Honnold did impressive onsights of Gaia, and End of the Affair maybe, neither of which are Pearson routes. How on earth could they end his career for a while? He's every bit as good as they are - nice guy too.

There’s a documentary on it someone mentioned above called Redemption. He put up two FA’s of new never climbed grades at the time and they did the second and third ascent immediately downgrading them. One of the routes Honnold does with one hand slapping the Arete the entire way. Kind of messed up they clown on the grade in the movie versus of just being nonchalant and just saying it’s not as hard as he thought, but it is what it is. In their defense Pearson couldn’t send Dave MacLeods Rhapsody and then went and listed his own climb as harder. The documentary is really good and he talks about how he graded them harder each time due to the fact they were harder than the last ones he put up and so on. I could see how that would happen when you’re one of a very small group putting up R&X rated gritstone routes. 

Ahh - I'll have to check it out. I must confess I was more impressed by Honnold's onsight of Gaia than anything to do with Pearson. He took a monster fall off Walk of Life and didn't get hurt so how can it be E12? Casual repeats of the harder grit routes don't carry much credence if they've been rehearsed, but onsights of them is very impressive.

I agree with the rehearsal versus onsight with the grit stone routes. I was able to meet Douggie Hall my last trip to the valley and hearing about some of those routes from someone who would work 9-5 and then just go out and and put them up or do onsights of the new hardest routes was pretty cool. Guy was still out on Astroman at 65!

Say what you want about James Pearson, but it is undeniable that he can make some pretty funny videos. I would add James Pearson's Le Bronx but that is a sport climbing video.

Seth Bleazard wrote:

Say what you want about James Pearson, but it is undeniable that he can make some pretty funny videos. I would add James Pearson's Le Bronx but that is a sport climbing video.

Not bashing on Pearson, he’s epic!

Proper Soul on Gear 

Seth Bleazard wrote: Proper Soul on Gear 

was that a request?

Sorry. Couldn’t insert the video. 

Thought this was pretty cool.
https://youtu.be/vUBl4BnhgPE

This guy has some good videos

Stolen from the front page of MP for the insane whipper video that is embedded.

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/steve-mcclure-opens-scary-new-trad-pitch-in-u-k/

Holy SHITE how did that not make it into the weekend whipper videos?

Augie Wagner wrote: This guy has some good videos

Looks like a rad route. What's with the bolts, though? They're right next to a crack and he didn't use them.

Big B wrote: heres mcclure from above^^^....HARDMAN

Thanks!

Big B wrote: heres mcclure from above^^^....HARDMAN

You mean McHaffie

Bryce Adamson wrote:

You mean McHaffie

Yeah your right 

Nice edit...

Xan Calonne wrote: Nice edit...

Thanks ;)