Post Awesome Trad Movies Here #2

If you don't like drum n bass, you may want to mute.  

It’d be crazy to see that actually led placing the gear!

Great video! Offwidth is the best!

Ben VanderStouw wrote: youtu.be/ZLpYN5nOs7Q

Christopher Smith wrote:

Holy cam nests Batman!

Love it. The fourth placement is basically an entire set of X4s. One .1, two .2s, one .3. Makes me feel like less of a Nancy.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

This guy is my brother from another mother!!!

Probably posted in the old thread.  Never get tired of watching brits climb hard trad on the sketchiest of gear.. 

Classic 

I got the feeling Honnold et al were ridiculing the E grade there. That lowly E9 6c on Cloggy is still waiting for an onsight...

I’m pretty sure that video is from they went over there and downgraded all of James Pierson's routes which ended his climbing career for a while. Most of those routes are basically a highball with a piece of pro at the bottom so you don’t fall down the hill. Spicy shit for sure. 

Justin. S wrote: I’m pretty sure that video is from they went over there and downgraded all of James Pierson's routes which ended his climbing career for a while. Most of those routes are basically a highball with a piece of pro at the bottom so you don’t fall down the hill. Spicy shit for sure. 

I know they did a few of the high E classics, I'm not sure of how many Pearson's routes they repeated (maybe they should have tried "Walk of Life"). Honnold did impressive onsights of Gaia, and End of the Affair maybe, neither of which are Pearson routes. How on earth could they end his career for a while? He's every bit as good as they are - nice guy too.

Have you seen his documentary Redemption? Great flick. Poor guy. I’m no expert on the situation and I’ve only seen it once but I remember he graded some of his routes higher and higher just because he honestly thought they were harder than the previous routes, and they took more time for him to send. Then the US team came across and destroyed all those routes pretty easily and downgraded them, which made James spiral and he felt embarrassed. 

Paul L wrote:

Probably posted in the old thread.  Never get tired of watching brits climb hard trad on the sketchiest of gear.. 

Wow, that has everything....barely there slung horns, shallow cams in questionable rock and even a weighted hook placement.

Christopher Smith wrote:

Wow, that has everything....barely there slung horns, shallow cams in questionable rock and even a weighted hook placement.

Yeah, pretty wild.  I couldn't help but think at the end, when she's talking about not really enjoying the finish, that she's probably unconsciously just so happy to be alive that she can't really appreciate anything else.