David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Jess Roskelley missing

Mounir Fizari wrote: Ueli Steck, Kyle Dempster, Scott Adamson, Hayden Kennedy, Ryan Johnson, Marc Andre Leclerc, Tom Ballard, Daniele Nardi, and now David Lama, Hansjorg Auer, and Jess Rosskelley.

Can someone who has been following alpinism for longer than a few years comment if it was always like this? Do the best of the best really die at this rate, or are there just so many now that it seems that way? 

Go listen to the VERY recent 2pt Enormocast with Mark Twight.  He directly address this and it's one of the reasons he stepped away.  

mattm wrote:

Go listen to the VERY recent 2pt Enormocast with Mark Twight.  He directly address this and it's one of the reasons he stepped away.  

cool interview...looong but good

Horrible news!  I originally found out about Jess via Instagram when he liked my incredibly weak 5.8 TR pic.  I've been following all his posts since!  Incredible dude!

Tradiban wrote:

These days "futuristic" means certain death. To one-up the past, it has to be taken to an unreasonable level to impress the sponsors and the fans. These people's deaths are all our faults.

Although I agree, a part of me also wants to believe a huge driving factor has to be internal, it has to be for the sake of taking back the eyes filled with boundless potential each one of us once had as kids that some sacrificed to keep... 

Cris Garcia wrote:

Although I agree, a part of me also wants to believe a huge driving factor has to be internal, it has to be for the sake of taking back the eyes filled with boundless potential each one of us once had as kids that some sacrificed to keep... 

Eloquently put. Thanks for this

Tradiban wrote:

These days "futuristic" means certain death. To one-up the past, it has to be taken to an unreasonable level to impress the sponsors and the fans. These people's deaths are all our faults.

While I'm sure that plays a part, you don't get to that level just from wanting to impress sponsors and fans...there's drive there.

Shay Subramanian wrote:

While I'm sure that plays a part, you don't get to that level just from wanting to impress sponsors and fans...there's drive there.

Without sponsors and everyone cheering them on I think it's obvious they would roll the dice less because A. They lack the resources to climb that extremely that often and B. There's less incentive to go big and take big risks.

Tradiban wrote:

These days "futuristic" means certain death. To one-up the past, it has to be taken to an unreasonable level to impress the sponsors and the fans. These people's deaths are all our faults.

Got a boulder for you, 

Extremely sad

If anyone is interested in the ultimate alpinist perspective read “Kiss or Kill” by mark twight

Death is part of the alpine and it doesn’t ever get easier to cope with. I had the fortune of talking with Lama a couple months back and he had this youth in his eyes and in his smile that the world needs more of. Thoughts and prayers with all of the alpine community today. 

Matthew Wickenhiser wrote: If anyone is interested in the ultimate alpinist perspective read “Kiss or Kill” by mark twight

Kiss or Kill is mandatory reading for sure and definitely resonates with me more than much of climbing media. Andy Kirkpatrick's movie has a similar tone too. I wonder if guys like Lama and Hans share this darkness though. In all the interviews I've seen with them, they don't embrace the nihilism and disregard for the living that I see with twight and Kirkpatrick. Do you guys think there are distinct and almost opposite philosophies amongst the Alpine community, or at root are they (we?) all carrying a darkness that leads to these levels of risk acceptance?

Robert Rowsam wrote:

Kiss or Kill is mandatory reading for sure and definitely resonates with me more than much of climbing media. Andy Kirkpatrick's movie has a similar tone too. I wonder if guys like Lama and Hans share this darkness though. In all the interviews I've seen with them, they don't embrace the nihilism and disregard for the living that I see with twight and Kirkpatrick. Do you guys think there are distinct and almost opposite philosophies amongst the Alpine community, or at root are they (we?) all carrying a darkness that leads to these levels of risk acceptance?

I'm sure that it develops as you go on.  I can see Lama still riding the youthful optimism.

v0 hero wrote:

Her name was Inge Perkins. 

Thanks. It bother me beyond belief that the tragic death of such an amazing young woman was so ignored by coverage of HK's suicide. The entire community is poorer for her loss.

Remember too, the trauma continues for the members of SAR who have who have to dig their friends out of the snow.

This is crushing to the soul. It was such a pleasure watching David climb with so much motivation.

Robert Rowsam wrote:

Kiss or Kill is mandatory reading for sure and definitely resonates with me more than much of climbing media. Andy Kirkpatrick's movie has a similar tone too. I wonder if guys like Lama and Hans share this darkness though. In all the interviews I've seen with them, they don't embrace the nihilism and disregard for the living that I see with twight and Kirkpatrick. Do you guys think there are distinct and almost opposite philosophies amongst the Alpine community, or at root are they (we?) all carrying a darkness that leads to these levels of risk acceptance?

Talk comes up about this comes up in his book (or some other). On a trip with Alex Lowe, Mark Twight had his usual dark experience. Afterwards when Alex read what Mark wrote about the trip he said something along the lines "That's what was going through your mind?! We were on completely different trips" By all accounts, Alex Lowe was a cheerful guy until his untimely death. Despite their personal outlooks, they all lost friends to the mountains (and sadly now are the lost friends). I'm sure everyone rationalizes it differently, but it's a unique person who can deal with it and remain positive.

The late Ueli Steck talks about death and some of the risk here: https://vimeo.com/215558694 - First attempt on Annapurna south face he falls 300 meters and survives, next attempt someone dies in a tent with him, but he goes back and ultimately completes it solo. Ueli never seemed very "dark" but clearly he, like others, knew the potential outcomes and had to understand their own reasons to continue climbing.

^^^
Jeff Lowe had a similar comment after their trip to Nuptse together.  For Twight it was an existential experience; Lowe said something more to the effect of 'well, it was a trip to the mountains'.

Joe Manlove wrote:

Thanks. It bother me beyond belief that the tragic death of such an amazing young woman was so ignored by coverage of HK's suicide. The entire community is poorer for her loss.

Remember too, the trauma continues for the members of SAR who have who have to dig their friends out of the snow.

trust me, around Montana and Wyoming, no one ignored her passing. Everyone is still reeling

PatMas wrote:

I wasn’t trying to pick it apart, one of the quotes earlier in this thread made it seem like the Rosskelly that said ‘they’re dead. They aren’t missing’ was the rosskelly that was climbing with them.  

Yes it is very likely (basically a certainty) that their dad has info that we don’t, especially with he himself being an experience climber. And yes it is very likely that they are gone forever. But still seems a little early (with what is publicly available) to be saying with any certainty that all three have died.

Do you know who his dad is?  Look him up. Hint: he was awarded a Piolet D'Or for lifetime achievement.  One, he knows more about and has more experience in the mountains than most of us ever will. And, two, he likely has additional information as well.  

I'm far from an alpinist, but have come to know these names over the past several years as I have turned more of an eye towards the mountains.  Lama and Rosskelley especially impressed me with their seeming ability to ride the cutting edge in the safest, most methodical way, knowing they were capable of things that nobody else was, but maintaining humility.  I know less of Auer, but have read of his feats, which speak for themselves, although big free soloing seems a bit closer to the raw edge than I would place Lama and Rosskelly.   Despite knowing the inherent risk in each objective they took, I looked forward to seeing what Lama and Rosskelley were going to do in the future, and fully expected to see them doing it.  The news of their passing, along with Auer, truly shook me.  When Steck passed, I honestly wasn't surprised.  Despite his strengths, the style in which he decided to take on the mountains seemed like it only had one logical end.  This event on the other hand cements the knowledge that no matter the level of skill and preparation, in the end nature has the last word.  
May these three rest well, and the stories of their time and memories they have left inspire for generations.
Deepest condolences to the families and friends of all three, and hopefully they can find some strength in knowing they do not grieve alone.