What are your Favorite Lesser Known Climbing Areas?

Hey climbers of the MP internetz,

1) Does anyone else have a personal blog where they write about climbing?
2) Is anyone interested in collaborating on a blog post? (+ want a link to their blog. Details below)

I'm not sure if this is kosher salt or not, but the last time I posted something like this it seemed to get a pretty slightly above tepid response.

...

*Collab: Favorite Lesser Known Climbing Areas*

Deadline: April 22
Post will go live: April 25

Theme Details: What is your favorite lesser known crag? Maybe it’s a local gem, a little out of the way, or just doesn’t have the size of a Frankenjura or Fontainebleau (obviously). In any case, it doesn’t have widespread appeal, despite being a slice of climbing heaven! You should personally climb (or have climbed) here.

Submission Info:

• 150-200 words about the climbing area and what makes it one of your favorites. Include things like top routes, the ambiance, how to get there, things to pay attention to (like parking or access issues) and any other tips (like a local bar to cool down at afterwards).
• Please include an original image (horizontal preferred) of at least 800 px, if you have one.
• I will give a backlink to your blog homepage or a relevant, non-competing post.

• Lynn Woods in MA
• Będkowice Valley, Poland

@Josh, they don't have to be secret to be under the radar.

Farley Ledge in MA isn't a secret. Or Lynn Woods is certainly under the radar beyond a regional perspective (and even in the area).

Some places deserve more love, exposure can even help protect it in the future.

For the purposes of this post, if someone is concerned about their own under the radar place getting too big, don't share it. It's your choice.

Aaron its actually quite ironic to use Farley as an example because part of the current access negotiation is terms on not having a guidebook or information published about Farley online to limit crowds. So in the case of Farley it is actually a good idea to not talk about it. 

DRusso wrote: Aaron its actually quite ironic to use Farley as an example because part of the current access negotiation is terms on not having a guidebook or information published about Farley online to limit crowds. So in the case of Farley it is actually a good idea to not talk about it. 

Noted. Yea, that was probably one of the worse examples I could have used, actually. 

Aaron Gerry wrote: @Josh, they don't have to be secret to be under the radar.

Farley Ledge in MA isn't a secret. Or Lynn Woods is certainly under the radar beyond a regional perspective (and even in the area).

Some places deserve more love, exposure can even help protect it in the future.

DRusso wrote: Aaron its actually quite ironic to use Farley as an example because part of the current access negotiation is terms on not having a guidebook or information published about Farley online to limit crowds. So in the case of Farley it is actually a good idea to not talk about it. 

What's worse - if the parking situation at Farley is as tight as the MP description says, even a little more traffic there would be problematic.

mediocre wrote: Says the guy trying to exploit these places for internet fame. 

Haha. I'm interested in learning about lesser known places, and my hunch is other people are too.

I spent last year traveling to places like Lviv, Cluj Napoca, Plovdiv, etc. A little different.

I like climbing, and I like learning about what's out there. 

Will you help me get internet fame though?!?!

Yea my fav place that's off the map HMMMMM....

Wait for it!

Noted, Farley for my next climbing trip.

Bahaha. "Under the Radar" doesn't mean "off the map" or "the place that shall not be named." Or does it?

Maybe I should have used a different phrase. Let's go with "lesser known climbing areas." I'll even update this.

Even those under the radar are not to be divulged, Info or location.

Just say  No  to  online  posting about  lesser known  or secret  stashes. 

Faafo . wrote: Rule 1 and 2...

Haha. I can see this was the wrong crowd to post this to. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote: Just say  No  to  online  posting about  lesser known  or secret  stashes. 

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Even those under the radar are not to be divulged, Info or location.

 

Every time you talk about how secret spots shouldn't be shared you include a picture of said secret spot. So lame. 

Yosemite

#Vanlife

Matt Wetmore, if you are a So Cal local you know where that crag is, it' not a secret crag in the photo, obviously your not a So Cal local.

We all know that the real climbers and "locals" in so cal live in San Diego and climb at the Uber secret south woodson and tahquitz. So the point above about that chosspile pile of a rock posted is irrelevant.

EDIT: OP  you should write your story about south woodson it's locals only and had the best rock in the country

bruno-cx wrote: Roy NM

Stop keep it on the down low brother

Where I grew up, there was this awesome little sandstone bouldering area in some foothills surrounded by suburbs.  You could ride your bike there and get away from town.  A lot of it was choss, most of it was filled with poison oak, but there were some great friction and crimping problems that one could make a circuit of.  One of my first 'high balls' (long before they called them that) was there; a giant layback crack that turned into an offwidth at the top.
This is back in the day of Sportiva Enduros and Boreal Aces.  There was a lot of broken glass and graffiti, but you could get up there with your square of carpet and blaze a few and get away from it all.

At some point, the property was sold to a golf course.  I heard some rocks were dynamited, others became relics in the midst of greens.  It was a real shame, a small handful of folks tried to fight it.  People were ticketed for trespassing...
We used to call it 'Bedrock' or 'The Mazzones'.