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Clean aid beta for Scarface on liberty cap

Original Post
Mason Purdy · · PNW · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

This route was calling me for a while since I wondered what the gorgeous line was looking at photos of other routes.  Now I see it goes free too! Very cool to free, but I'm not strong enough yet...
Apparently, Scarface goes at C2, but can't find any beta... Other than "moderate nailing."

I've not nailed anything yet, and even though would like to learn, I don't wanna get in over my head assuming I can do it clean then not having the rack or skillz to nail if I need to.

Any help appreciated!  FWIW, I did search Google, big walls, ST, and MP.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,999

I’ve climbed it as a free climb and was not looking at it with an eye towards clean aid, but I would bet that it would go at a reasonable grade? Sorry I can’t be more helpful.

The main reason I’m posting is to request that you do NOT nail on any pitches of this route that are shared with the free climb (which are most of them).

Mason Purdy · · PNW · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Word.
I imagine the gear beta would be usual hooks and beaks for Yos, plus small sliding ball nuts.  Ideally, I'd be able to French free the hardest spots.  Just hoping to know before I go.
Thanks much.

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

Hi mason,

The nailing on the original route is solely on the 1st aid pitch corner.  It is probably A2+ and involves beaks.

The first few pitches were established by Chuck Clance (rip) and steve 15 years prior so we re-establishes them during the FA.

Otherwise I would have started on Luke’s free start pitches.  

Also, a few pitches needed nailing as they were dirty and closed prior to all of the cleaning and Oscar winning honnold free solo romps.

I don’t believe anyone has climbed the first real pitch to this day other than steve and I.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
mucci wrote: I don’t believe anyone has climbed the first real pitch to this day other than steve and I and clance.

FIFY

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

Nice Kev,  good catch.  Miss that guy

Mason Purdy · · PNW · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks mucci and Kevin, appreciate it.

Hopefully see you in the fall in the valley, if even through some binocs!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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