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Canadian Rockies

Original Post
GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

I plan on spending the summer up in the Canadian rockies.. looking to do some classics and crowd sourcing on some fun areas and routes that people have had an amazing time on... thinking Mount Sir Donald and the Bugaboos right now... looking for more insight and other area/climbing suggestions... trad routes under 5.9, easy glacier travel, ACC huts, camping, multi-day expeditions, multi-pitch trad, mountaineering, .. no portaledge.. minimum aid climbing...... thanks! suggestions?

John B · · Calgary · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10

I live in the area and these are on my Hit-list this summer,  you can find youtube videos of all of them
if u want to buy the guidebook banff rock by chris perry is the way to go for trad routes in banff and area

Ha Ling, NE face 5.6 trad 12pitch 500m canmore
easy limestone slab climbing, committing, some people have died on the route,  walk off on the top

Takakkawa Falls,  5.7 mixed trad sport 12 pitch 410 meters yoho
easy scenic waterfall climb traverse style with 100 foot cave mixed in

Grand Sentinel, South face 5.8 trad 4 pitch 110m lake lousie
steep quartzite, this is an breathtaking spire in an alpine setting,   there is also a much harder 5.10d sport route as well

Tunnel mountain, gooseberry 5.8 trad 7 pitch 250m in banff
super short approach right beside banff,  may be pretty busy

Tower of Babel, NW direct 5.8 trad 6pitch 390m right beside lake moraine near lake lousie
parking at moraine lake fills up SUPER early,  so if climbing this or grand sentinel keep that in mind

things not on my hitist u may be interested in
Robson
castle mountain super brewers
kananaskis joy 5.8 20 pitch 600m dihedral
bugs pigeon spire 5.4
bugs bugs spire 5.8 12 pitch
bugs snowpatch route 5.8 19 pitch

while in the canadian rockies check out
spirit island
athabasca falls
johnstons canyon, go early to avoid crowds
upper and lower kananaskis lakes u dont need a park pass and u can drive right up to it,  lots of trails and its right near JOY
lake lousie has some great hikes and world class climbing back of the lake,  super crowded though for rockies standards

GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

sweet, that is a lot of info, I appreciate it

Bharath Tata · · Boulder CO · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 70

if either of you guys are looking for partners for any of this, shoot me a message. I lead 5.9 alpine, crevasse rescue/etc, have a double rack, ropes (including twins/halfs), and all that. I'll be in the area August 10-20!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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