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Barnaby Calman
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Mar 15, 2019
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London
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 30
Going to be in the vicinity from 22nd onward. Was wondering what people thought the best short-ish multipitch (around 4 pitches) routes were... just to get the old head into gear before tackling the big days out. Always get really good suggestions on here!
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Justin Laursen
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Mar 15, 2019
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Chattanooga, TN
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 430
Birdland (5.7). It falls into the "ish" category, but also well into the "best" category.
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eli poss
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Mar 15, 2019
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
There are a few 4 pitch routes on the lotta balls wall. Black magic and lotta balls both get stars in the guidebook.
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Peter Lewis
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Mar 15, 2019
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Bridgton, ME
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 165
To echo previous posters: Birdland, Lotta Balls, Black Magic are great (and very popular), also think of Johnny Vegas, Frogland (6 pitches, but goes fast), Cat in the Hat (go as high as you want, then rap, but be respectful to other parties), several routes on the Angel Food Wall (Tunnel Vision, Group Therapy, Pureblind Pillar: all about 6 pitches, but go very fast), Cookie Monster, and the list goes on. These are all easy to moderate, if you want stouter suggestions just ask!
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Eric Engberg
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Mar 15, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 0
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Brett Millard
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Mar 15, 2019
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Kelowna, BC
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 10
Geronimo would be perfect
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Jeff G
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Mar 15, 2019
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Colorado
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,098
Risky Business is amazing - it's 4 pitches The Night Crawler is one of the best routes in RR - 4 pitches Black Magic (better than lotta balls IMO) Y2K
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Big B
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Mar 15, 2019
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Reno, NV
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 1
Barndawg TheFirst wrote: Going to be in the vicinity from 22nd onward. Was wondering what people thought the best short-ish multipitch (around 4 pitches) routes were... just to get the old head into gear before tackling the big days out. Always get really good suggestions on here! what grade?
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dave custer
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Mar 15, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 2,411
Jackrabbit Buttress could be the oyster of your pearl...
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Bryan K
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Mar 15, 2019
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 525
Sadly there is a chance of rain in the forecast for March 20-21, so I'll be the first to ask that you please don't climb if it ends up being wet. But if it ends up not raining or being a light rain, your best bet is to climb at sunny areas first after waiting a day or two. Birdland will dry out super fast, whereas Dark Shadows will not. Also, Olive Oil is 4-5 pitches and is an awesome climb.
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Barnaby Calman
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Mar 15, 2019
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London
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 30
bkozak wrote: Sadly there is a chance of rain in the forecast for March 20-21, so I'll be the first to ask that you please don't climb if it ends up being wet. But if it ends up not raining or being a light rain, your best bet is to climb at sunny areas first after waiting a day or two. Birdland will dry out super fast, whereas Dark Shadows will not. Also, Olive Oil is 4-5 pitches and is an awesome climb. absolutely - we realistically won't be climbing these prior to the 24th.
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Xan Calonne
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Mar 15, 2019
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Yucca Valley
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 61
+1 for Risky Business. The best!
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Jason Halladay
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Mar 15, 2019
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Los Alamos, NM
· Joined Oct 2005
· Points: 15,158
Jeff G. wrote: Risky Business is amazing - it's 4 pitches The Night Crawler is one of the best routes in RR - 4 pitches Black Magic (better than lotta balls IMO) Y2K
+1 for this list. All great ones.
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James Gustafson
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Mar 16, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 10
An excellent 5.9 option is Saddle Up, very diverse and thought provoking with access to brownstone wall.
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Barnaby Calman
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Mar 19, 2019
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London
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 30
Big B wrote: what grade? 5.8/5.9 is my feeling. I know my partner will want to get into the early 10s later in the week. I actually got on Risky Business which my partner was well able to do, but I bottled out of on p2. The hardest thing I've ever led on trad is a single pitch 10c, so it's not all that surprising really. Nightcrawler, for instance, looks absolutely mindblowing, but I reckon a bit beyond me. I loved Dark Shadows and led all the (4) pitches of that. Obviously, I don't want to spend the whole time pottering either. Great suggestions so far, thanks to all!
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Big B
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Mar 19, 2019
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Reno, NV
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 1
Saddle Up, Lotta Balls, Black Magic, Ginger Cracks(longer but you can rap anytime), Refried Brains, Beulahs, Great Red Book(only 2p, but worth it) ...... oh and the new one Kentucky Yeet is putting in next to BBW & PG ;)
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Barnaby Calman
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Mar 19, 2019
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London
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 30
thanks Big B :) Ginger Cracks on my wishlist definitely. Have climbed GRB, but want to do it again as I led p1 last time. My buddy is arriving Saturday early PM so I reckon it'll be a good option. Was really fun last time. Except for that we tried to walk off climber's right. That was a bit of an epic. But lets not talk about that.
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