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Video: Rio's Crack (v6) - Bishop, CA

Original Post
Kyle Love · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 2,321

We finally made it to Bishop to start our annual climbing trip! One of the first things we jumped on was Rio's Crack. This problem eluded me over previous years, but surprisingly enough I ended up getting it first try this year! Turns out training pays off, who knew!?

Plenty more to come!

Enjoy!
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Way to hang in there & make the cling count!


  I couldn't decide whether to post it, my acceptance around here is low

Frame @1:28-29, frame @1:30 embedded in the picture,
The next frame @1:31 is his hand hitting that slot
 it was a sweet send!

JaredG ? what do you mean? should he climb it the way you say to? or the way he sent it!
Edit:to reflex fax & correx typo
He is not some scrawny Gnome, he has a +2 ape-index on a 5'7" frame
JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17

are there any crack moves or is it really Rio's Rail?  Looks like you missed a fingerlock around 1:30.

Kyle Love · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 2,321
JaredG wrote: are there any crack moves or is it really Rio's Rail?  Looks like you missed a fingerlock around 1:30.

My buddy, a trad climber through and through, was so sad to find crimps instead of finger-jams on this problem. I may have been able to use a fingerlock, but admittedly, I have terrible crack climbing technique, so I stuck with crimping and sidepulling.

Kyle Love · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 2,321
Suburban Roadside wrote: Way to hang in there & make the cling count!
I

  couldn't decide whether to post it, my acceptance around here is low

Frame @1:28-29, frame @1:30 embedded in the picture,
The next frame @1:31 is his hand hitting that slot
 it was a sweet send!
JaredG ? what do you mean? should he climb it the way you say to? or the way he sent it!
He is not some scranny Gnome, he has something like a 2+ ape-index on a 6'+" frame

I got a +2 ape-index on a 5'7" frame!

Kevin Green · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Kyle Love wrote:

My buddy, a trad climber through and through, was so sad to find crimps instead of finger-jams on this problem. I may have been able to use a fingerlock, but admittedly, I have terrible crack climbing technique, so I stuck with crimping and sidepulling.

Nice send!

Ive been seeing your guy's vids pop up here and there. They have been getting better as time goes so keep at it! Still not 100% the style I fully enjoy but impressive none the less. You guys are putting in a lot of work and trying to make quality videos so kudos to you. 


Also, I am always disappointed when a bouldering area has "___ Crack" and it turns out to be a rail or something not crack like. 
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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