Headlamps for alpine climbing 2019

Zebralight H600w IV users: What is the best battery to use? Can you use non-rechargeable backups like the Fenix?

Robert Rowsam wrote: Zebralight H600w IV users: What is the best battery to use? Can you use non-rechargeable backups like the Fenix?

Any 18650 battery is fine - you can find them cheap in numbers online. Haven't seen much difference between brands. These batteries are used in almost all rechargeable battery packs that aren't, say: a custom job for a laptop. They just run them in serial and seal the battery pack up so you're not privy to what's really going inside. It's well-tested battery tech. The Petzl NAO uses the same battery in their battery pack, just with a bunch of electronics thrown in, and they up they price substantially (robbery!).

Yes, you can use 2, 123 lithium batteries, instead of one 18650 battery in a pinch. Those can usually be found in some gas stations, most grocery stores, or somewhere like Walmart, Target, or Home Depot. I haven't found 18650's around much, except in a full-on battery store. They usually ask if you're going to use them for your vape pen, so I just bring the light in to show them that, no: I'm not. Another place to look, perhaps, is a car parts store? REI would have them too. Mind the price, though: sometimes the 123 one-use lithiums are more expensive than a 18650.

New Petzl headlamps inbound for 2019!

That Petzl Swift looks sweet!

The headlamps listed in this thread that use weird batteries look awesome.  Unfortunately, I need something that uses AA or AAA batteries, just in case I need to track down new batteries.  I think that I'd be hard-pressed to find 18650 batteries in South America!

Nick Sweeney wrote: That Petzl Swift looks sweet!

The headlamps listed in this thread that use weird batteries look awesome.  Unfortunately, I need something that uses AA or AAA batteries, just in case I need to track down new batteries.  I think that I'd be hard-pressed to find 18650 batteries in South America!

But they're rechargeable and not that expensive, so maybe you could just bring a couple extra 18650s?

Ryan Pfleger wrote:

But they're rechargeable and not that expensive, so maybe you could just bring a couple extra 18650s?

That could work.  It's a three week trip, but we'll be back in town at least once during that time and could recharge then.  The Zebralight does look really good.

Nick Sweeney wrote: That Petzl Swift looks sweet!

The headlamps listed in this thread that use weird batteries look awesome.  Unfortunately, I need something that uses AA or AAA batteries, just in case I need to track down new batteries.  I think that I'd be hard-pressed to find 18650 batteries in South America!

The headlamp I linked has the option to use "regular" batteries as well.  I think it's AAAs.   

Ahhh, I didn't realize you weren't planning on recharging them. You aren't planning on a GoalZero or something similar?

Ryan Pfleger wrote: Ahhh, I didn't realize you weren't planning on recharging them. You aren't planning on a GoalZero or something similar?

I will take a small battery pack to base camp but I don't know if that's enough to keep my camera, iphone(music is necessary), inreach and headlamp batteries charged up.  I don't want to mess with solar panels, we're planning on going fairly light to give us maximum flexibility.

Nick Sweeney wrote:

That could work.  It's a three week trip, but we'll be back in town at least once during that time and could recharge then.  The Zebralight does look really good.

Just bring like 4x18650s and call it a day. I typically bring 4 on a weekend trip, which is overkill. The extra can still be useful because in a pinch I can charge my phone via a charger that also doubles as a powerbank. A good one is the XTAR PB2, it's lightweight and has a nice magnetic door. 

If you do need to buy new 18650s, just go to an e-cigarette shop. They'll 100% have them, and they'll typically have good ones. But these things are first and foremost, rechargeable. Unless you lose the batteries on the climb, why would you need to get new ones? If you're in civilization enough to buy batteries, you can find and outlet to recharge your batteries or use the aforementioned power bank to charge while you drive.

greggrylls wrote: https://coastportland.com/product/fl75r/

This is what you want.  "climbing headlamps" suck compared to specialized light manufacturers.  My buddy has one and i've had him turn on the "sun" mode to light a pitch I was leading at night.  I've got a new BD storm and it doesn't compare.   His started having issues after 1 year and they sent him a brand new one no questions asked.  

A little expensive.  I can't compare to the Fenix but he may have more to say as he's had a few of the nice headlamps and has pitched me on pros and cons before.  I'll be getting a coast soon enough.  

Thomas G?  Anything to add

Edit: also on the 18650 platform everyone is talking about I believe.  Option to recharge vs. add regular batteries is sweet.

Hmm this one is cheaper than the Fenix and Zebralight so makes a more affordable solution 

Another vote for Zebralight. Many different options depending what beam type you want. The 18650 platform will blow all other flashlights/headlamps away, well worth the initial investment.

have you looked at Lupine ?

Anybody using the Nitecore HC65 for climbing?  Curious how it compares to zebralights and Fenix, etc. Specs seem good, runtimes not quite as good as zebralight, but seems versatile as it does have red and HI CRI proximity lights, and can be found for $50 incl battery. 

jdejace wrote:...always have a spare set of alkalines in my emergency kit. 

In the alpine context, alkalines are a poor choice as their output in freezing temps is terrible unless the batts are warmed (e.g. worn under a hat). Difficult to warm if the torch is on a helmet. Put lithium back-ups in your car, pack, etc. and they'll still be good in 10 years. Alkaline shelf life is poor and they're heavier than lithiums.

Picked up a Fenix hl60r and hp25 based on the recommendations here and am very impressed. Yes it weighs a little more than my old held-together-by-duct-tape petzl tikka, but it's not that much heavier and it certainly isn't noticible at all when I'm wearing it. The light output and build quality difference is massive and definitely makes up for the 2oz difference. Rechargable through a USB cord makes this more versatile than the zebralight as I don't believe you can charge via usb in the field (if I'm wrong ignore that).

Right now, if you sign up for their email list (you can unsubscribe immediately after) you'll get a 30% off coupon. That brings these down to about $50 with free shipping (battery included, unlike the zebralight). Given the performance, that's a steal. I'm extremely impressed and highly recommended if you need a new headlamp or two.

I bought both the Fenix and zebra.... Fenix is pretty damn nice but is heavier and bulkier so idk flip a coin, can't go wrong with either beam. You could literally drive a car in the dark of night with either.

Aaron Nash wrote: Right now, if you sign up for their email list (you can unsubscribe immediately after) you'll get a 30% off coupon. That brings these down to about $50 with free shipping (battery included, unlike the zebralight). 

Got the Fenix HM50R. HL60R seemed a bit heavy and overkill for me.

But WOW. The quality of the headlamp blows BDs and Petzl's headlamps out of the water. Build, lighting, features, and the extras they give you in case something breaks are all better at an even better price point.

Thanks MP for showing me this.

Will not be going back to climbing company headlamps.

gumbie gene wrote: Got the Fenix HM50R. HL60R seemed a bit heavy and overkill for me.

But WOW. The quality of the headlamp blows BDs and Petzl's headlamps out of the water. Build, lighting, features, and the extras they give you in case something breaks are all better at an even better price point.

Thanks MP for showing me this.

Will not be going back to climbing company headlamps.

Why is it overkill?