Interchangeability of adhesive mixing nozzles from different brands?
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Just to save me some trial and error, thought I'd see if anyone else knows. Powers vs. Simpson vs. Sika vs. whatever/generic brands. I have some powers glue and am looking to pickup more nozzles...looks like I can get other brand nozzles for a lot cheaper. Best I can tell, anchoring adhesive nozzle attachment/threads look pretty standardized, but I'm not sure. 1:1 mix ratio, about 7/8" female threads. |
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They are pretty well worldwide 7/8" x 9 threads apart from the wierd ones. However beware that they can have different numbers of mixing elements and this can make a difference, we had some US made resin for testing (it was sold in the UK) and the curing with the supplied nozzles was terrible, the supplied nozzles were 10 element ones and we changed to 14 element ones and had no further problems. Whether the nozzles were originally from the USA or sourced elsewhere we don´t know. |
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Just checked and the Powers (Dewalt) ones have 14 elements. |
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We never found out the cause (who supplied the nozzles), the resin was Simson if I remeber rightly and the cavers in the UK were testing it with poor results so I got some as well. Mixed throught the supplied nozzles it never really went properly hard, squeezed out and mixed by hand it cured perfectly so I changed to the stock nozzles we use and it was fine. We talked to the suppliers and they changed the nozzles but where the fault lay they didn´t say. |
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Please share if you find a cheap source for the appropriate nozzles. |
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Thanks all. I'll update as I find/try stuff. Oddly enough by far the best deal I found is legit Powers nozzles from ClimbTech: |
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Noob gluing question: while I assume you only get one gluing session out of each nozzle, can you reseal glue tubes if you're only doing a few bolts per session? Or do you need a whole new glue tube each session? |
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Sam Skovgaard wrote: Noob gluing question: while I assume you only get one gluing session out of each nozzle, can you reseal glue tubes if you're only doing a few bolts per session? Or do you need a whole new glue tube each session? Jusr reseal the tube (I normally don't even bother and just leave the old nozzle on until I need the tube again. Important is check before you fit new nozzle is check there's no hardened bit waiting to block it, I squeeze a little bit out and wipe it off before fitting the nozzle. |
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Sam Skovgaard wrote: Noob gluing question: while I assume you only get one gluing session out of each nozzle, can you reseal glue tubes if you're only doing a few bolts per session? Or do you need a whole new glue tube each session? Yes, you can just leave the used nozzle in place, or take it off and put on the cap that came with the packet. But before putting on the new nozzle, use a small stick and clean out any hardened flakes/clumps/bits of glue from output of the packet. They could clog the nozzle. |
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And don't forget that you need to make sure that it's mixing properly - typically 3 full pulls of the glue - every time you install a new nozzle. Nice trick is to put that in a small ziplock in your bag/bucket, makes it easy to see if it hardened up. |
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Since this has not been mentioned I think the best practice is to also always keep a partially used glue cartridge with remaining glue installed WITHIN the glue gun, with the trigger and pushrod NOT disengaged from the partially used canister in between sessions. That way you can just switch to a new nozzle when you resume working the next time.
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recently found out the hard way that Set-XP nozzles don't fit sika anchorfix/redhead tubes. You can still kind of mash them on and seal it with tape.... but maybe not ideal. |
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Eric Berghorn wrote: Since this has not been mentioned I think the best practice is to also always keep a partially used glue cartridge with remaining glue installed WITHIN the glue gun, with the trigger and pushrod NOT disengaged from the partially used canister in between sessions. That way you can just switch to a new nozzle when you resume working the next time. This is only true with those cheap glues, but yes, I was surprised/screwed by it: a total PITA. I know I'm one of the few who's willing to pay extra for Hilti RE-500, but it doesn't have this problem nor any of the other dozen problems the cheap glues have. |
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Eric Berghorn wrote: Since this has not been mentioned I think the best practice is to also always keep a partially used glue cartridge with remaining glue installed WITHIN the glue gun, with the trigger and pushrod NOT disengaged from the partially used canister in between sessions. That way you can just switch to a new nozzle when you resume working the next time. What cartridges are you using? I've never experienced any problem with all the various 380/400ml ones I've tried and don't know what the plastic tabs you are referring to are either. |
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Eric Berghorn wrote: Since this has not been mentioned I think the best practice is to also always keep a partially used glue cartridge with remaining glue installed WITHIN the glue gun, with the trigger and pushrod NOT disengaged from the partially used canister in between sessions. That way you can just switch to a new nozzle when you resume working the next time.Hell yes!!!! Just learned this the hard way yesterday! God damnit, that sucked. Those plastic guide tabs got me good. Dewalt AC100+ Gold. |
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To Jim Titt and Nick: It was Dewalt AC100 Gold ! Concur Nick ! I’m sure this has been discussed elsewhere, but I hope others might take notice and avoid this particular scenario ! |
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