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Easiest feeding self-belay device (other than microtraxion)

Original Post
Rob M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Hi, I've been using a shunt backed up by a microtraxion for top rope self-belay but have found the shunt to feed badly, even with a weighted rucksack and a chest harness. I have found the microtraxion to feed very well. I am interested in replacing my shunt with a toothless device and having the microtraxion below it, and I was wondering if anyone who has tried multiple devices could recommend a toothless one which feeds really well, ideally as effortlessly as the microtraxion. The Kong Duck or the Camp Lift look like they might fit the bill, anyone tried both/either of these?

Thanks all

M Hanna · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Camp Goblin and Rescuecender are my go tos.

MH

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493
Adam Fleming · · AMGA Certified Rock Guide; SLC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 451

I do duck on top, micro below.  It feeds super smooth; no complaints. 

David N · · Los angeles · Joined May 2017 · Points: 5

I enjoy the petzl microcender, works well for me. 

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

Camp lift 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Brian Abram wrote: rocknrescue.com/product/cli…?

+1 to this. The roll-n-lock is a great device.

The Duck is fine, but the roll-n-lock does everthing the Duck does, runs smoother, and is also a pulley. With no weight/size/cost penalty. So overall the roll-n-lock is a better device.
Marcelo · · santa cruz, ca · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 31
David N wrote: I enjoy the petzl microcender, works well for me. 

Same here, though I believe they are no longer made. I used to use 2 Rescuescenders (old style with pull out pin) but i think those also got discontinued/changed. I've seen some Arborist toothless pull-out-pin style rope grabs very similar to the microcender on evilbay.  

 
Richard Fernandez · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 859
greggrylls wrote: Camp lift 

2nd the Camp Lift... It's a Gem.

Fran M · · Germany · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

The Climbing Technology Roll n lock runs freely. Watch out, it does the same as a toothed device (serrated instead of toothed) and will tear the sheath at the same loads (around 4KN). I use the rollnlock and a micro traxion, one on each rope for hands-free self-bealying. Once at the top there is no need to remove either, just disengage the cams with a flip.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
David N wrote: I enjoy the petzl microcender, works well for me. 

Agreed.  This one self feeds super easy with little or no weight on the rope.

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Fran M wrote: The Climbing Technology Roll n lock runs freely. Watch out, it does the same as a toothed device (serrated instead of toothed) and will tear the sheath at the same loads (around 4KN). I use the rollnlock and a micro traxion, one on each rope for hands-free self-bealying. Once at the top there is no need to remove either, just disengage the cams with a flip.

Exact same setup and procedure I use.  However, depending on length of climb not always on two strands. 

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674
here is my set up.
Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 430

I use a Microtraxion and a Roll'n'Lock.
I prefer the Micro on top and Roll'n'Lock as backup for two reasons.
1) the Micro catches more instantaneously, while the Roll'n'Lock slips an inch or so like a grigri.
2) if the primary fails, the resulting fall onto the backup would be higher force (especially on a static rope). This ought to be onto a toothless device.
I don't mind taking repeated 0.9kn falls onto teeth (micro), but I like to eliminate any chance or a harder fall onto teeth (even in unlikely scenario of being caught by backup).

Tony G · · Dallas, TX · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Fusion Climb  makes a rope grab that works quite well, though it is bulkier than the microcender. I find that it feeds a little smoother and it also has a hole already in it that works great for a neck loop of bungee cord.

Rob M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks for the replies everyone, leaning towards a CAMP lift at the mo, people seem to love it for top-rope self-belay.

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Rob M wrote: Thanks for the replies everyone, leaning towards a CAMP lift at the mo, people seem to love it for top-rope self-belay.

If you are looking for the easiest feeder.  I wouldn't go with the Lift.  Yes it worked no problem, but it didn't feed nearly as smooth as my roll n lock

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276
Brad Johnson wrote:

If you are looking for the easiest feeder.  I wouldn't go with the Lift.  Yes it worked no problem, but it didn't feed nearly as smooth as my roll n lock


I tend to agree. Roll and lock is also multipurpose.  I've used a plethora and the lift is my go to right now.  I used a rollnlock for a few sessions and had no complains.  I always throw a nalgene or my bag on the rope so I couldn't tell the difference in feeding but I believe you.  

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

i like the camp lift and it was cheap!

SICgrips · · Charlottesville · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 146

I agree with the Camp Goblin and also Kong Back-Up - which is fairly similar. Both have two modes of operation and no teeth. Up mode of keeps slight tension on rope similar to Microtraxion so has immediate lock-up but still slides fairly easily. The Up-Down mode slides up AND down rope freely without any friction but catches in the event of a fall which allows easy no fuss downclimbing. Both are fairly expensive unless you can find a deal but they are worth it. Quality pieces of gear.

Rob M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

To those suggesting a roll n lock, I have heard reports of a v-shaped groove which is quite sharp and which can touch the rope during a fall, has anyone experienced this?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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