Bolt Ladder for aid practice HWY 50???
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Is there a bolt ladder for aid practice in the 50 corridor? |
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Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Is there a bolt ladder for aid practice in the 50 corridor? Pretty sure there is one on the Lovers Leap boulders. And if it's not around anymore there is plenty of straight forward cracks to plug gear into for practice. |
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Agree. |
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I'd use it. I'd even be down to help bolt it. |
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I know it ain't Hwy 50, but there's a steep roadside bolt ladder on Highway 49, north of Nevada City right before it crosses the Yuba here: https://goo.gl/maps/tLpX7Lznpo62 |
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Just aid grand illusion, chances are that nobody will be on it. |
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csproul wrote: Just aid grand illusion, chances are that nobody will be on it. Getting to the base is a little outside the realm of newbie instruction but I hear you. |
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Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Agree. Frankly, I think this is a bad idea. Don't try to Eric Sloan-ify the area. Any random unpopular 1 pitch climb can be used to practice aiding and hauling, there is no need to bolt a ladder just for the purpose. |
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mpech wrote: Ouch that hurts. :) Tell me more about these unpopular cracks at Sugarloaf...maybe Fracture or Pony Express? :p |
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I teach noobs on the overhanging lead wall at the climbing gyms. Pipe works is in hwy50 |
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Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: why does it have to be at sugarloaf? I agree with previous comments, grand illusion seems like a good bet if it absolutely has to be at sugarloaf. |
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I’ve aided Taurus. Bet you could aid captain fingers. |
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Auburn Quarry isn't too far away, and I doubt anyone would care about a bolt ladder in a quarry. |
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There is an aid boulder at the corner of South Lake Tahoe blvd and Tahoe mountain road in south lake. One side has a bolt ladder the other has some more challenging routes. |
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Ken G wrote: There is an aid boulder at the corner of South Lake Tahoe blvd and Tahoe mountain road in south lake. One side has a bolt ladder the other has some more challenging routes. Where is Chim chimney? Nevermind, found it https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108007759/chim-chiminey Is that it?LOL A 3 bolt 5.6 aid ladder! |
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Yeah the bolts are probably too far apart. Would be impressive though. |
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Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Is there a bolt ladder for aid practice in the 50 corridor? Sugarloaf is a fairly historic and notable crag- I would not want to see a drilled ladder installed. There are others established in the area as mentioned in the thread- and as KD points out the gym is a great place to dial basic aid skills as well. Thanks for asking for input before drilling up the stone at the Loaf. |
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The Farley wrote: To be sure I would absolutely oppose a bolt ladder on Sugarloaf proper and only propose one somewhere in the boulder field that is appropriately constructed for the purpose. The idea is steep to an anchor to practice setting up a haul. Better for newbies to cluster there than on the Kor roof etc. |
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kevin deweese wrote: I teach noobs on the overhanging lead wall at the climbing gyms. Pipe works is in hwy50 Do you know if touchstone is fine with this? Seems like it would create a bit of a spectacle... |
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Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Depends upon the specific gym and how busy they are. Diabo Rock, Mission Cliffs, and Great Western have never given me any issues with it (I don't normally ask first because the person behind the desk normally looks at you like you're speaking Esperanto) Iron Works definitely is not friendly to aid climbing practice on their walls because it "takes up too much time on a route" even when there's no one around. No idea about Pipeworks specifically. Don't forget that there's aid routes at Mosquito Coast by placerville. Most of the routes are def not for noobs, but precedence seems to have been set for an additional bolt ladder in the area I would think. |
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There is def plenty of options to put one up on Highway 50 that is at no major climbing area to clog up any routes/area. tons of rocks/boulders lurking in them hills if you want to stomp for it |