Climbing,Bouldering,Hangboarding
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I have the ability to boulder/climb at least 4,5 times a week- when I do I work on climbing harder or having projects to grow stronger so I just don't hang out and meander. I also have incorporated working out(upper body, core, cardio) into a weekly routine as well. |
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How long have you been climbing? What grades do you climb outside as short, medium, and long term projects? |
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Really depends on what grades you're climbing/projecting. My initial recommendation is that climbing 4,5 days a week plus hangboarding would be an insane amount of stress on your fingers, forearms, etc. I've always found replicating crux boulder moves/sequences on a systems board helps me more than hangboarding for an extended period of time. The Moonboard also really helps with finger strength and much more fun than a hangboard. Circuits on a systems board can also help a lot for building endurance off the wall. |
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Although not a concrete factor, knowing your age will help people recommend a more accurate plan in terms of muscle/tendon recovery. I think most would agree that it is awfully hard to answer a question like this as it is often up to how the individual's body feels. Some people train finger strength significantly more than others without injuries, while others train may train once a week and continuously get injured because they aren't listening to their body. |
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Hangboarding is critical to preventing finger injury. I use a hangboard to warm up before I climb, in my training and also use it for PT. Most people will just climb hard, without a proper training regimen, not realizing that tendons take longer to build than muscle, "thinking" they are getting stronger when that's not really the case. Your fingers will hold you back if you don't exercise them properly. The harder the grade the more crimps and monos you will encounter. |
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Aaron Clifton wrote: I have the ability to boulder/climb at least 4,5 times a week- when I do I work on climbing harder or having projects to grow stronger so I just don't hang out and meander. I also have incorporated working out(upper body, core, cardio) into a weekly routine as well. i try to leave 48 hours 'rest' between really hard climbing sessions. if i climb in between them, it is really normally really low intensity just easy traversing/active recovery. ill also sometimes do more cardio and antagonistic exercises on these 'off' or rest days. i have also had success hangboarding the morning of a hard bouldering session (at night) and leaving 12 hours in between, assuming morning hangboarding is fairly low volume high intensity. i also try not to hangboard more than 2 times a week and certainly not try to do it when im feeling thrashed. i am not a coach or professional, but i feel that if you are not climbing V6 consistently, i would focus my efforts on technique, footwork, and just getting more days on rock. On hard bouldering session workouts where i dont hangboard that morning, i will warm up, do limit bouldering for a set period of time on projects in the gym/moonboard, low volume with ample rest between attempts. after 30-45 min of this, i will go hangboard to finish the workout. if my fingers are feeling the slightest bit tweaked, i definitely do not hangboard and dial back the bouldering and do more recovery (cold water bath, massage, stretching, rest). http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2012/08/bare-naked-hangboarding.htmlalso, power company has good cheap trainging plans such as their boulder strong. i recommend them both as i have had success. hope this is helpful. |
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This has been extremely helpful! |
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Aaron Clifton wrote: This has been extremely helpful! That range is really wide. It makes me guess that you are inconsistent in your climbing frequency. I would focus there before trying out habgboarding. If you plan on losing significant weight, do it slowly. There’s no reason for you to be under 185 lbs until you are trying to climb 5.12+ outside and trying to make quick strength gains and fat loss simultaneously is nearly impossible. |
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Yeah the inconsistent climbing comes from having a hard time nailing down a consistent schedule and keeping to it with some form of accountability(i.e having a partner, climbing goal). I think the stoke is hard to keep high when my personality and drive is being surrounded by people who are also working toward the same goal and I haven't found that quite yet("crossing fingers"), so for a lot of time it is hard to stay motivated. But I have been encouraged by the feedback! |