Carabiner wore out after one day of top rope?

John Wilder wrote: Imho, you shouldn't use I-beam carabiners for top roping or for primary rappelling carabiners. They wear down super fast. Round stock is better.

This does look like mostly anodization wear, but i wouldn't be surprised to see wear on the sides on that carabiner already.

And it isn't just that they wear down; the I-beam cross-section can result in sharp edges, which are very dangerous.  Carabiners like that are made to be light, not robust, and extensive top-roping isn't really what they're intended for, although rappelling also tends to wear them in the same way.

Healyje wrote:
Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner

Picked up one of these to test out as my Rap binner and loved it. Picking up a few more to make my dedicated TR binners.  On a side note rapping with steel beaners creates a heck of a zap from the static electricity.

Marcelo wrote:

Picked up one of these to test out as my Rap binner and loved it. Picking up a few more to make my dedicated TR binners.  On a side note rapping with steel beaners creates a heck of a zap from the static electricity.

Interesting.  Doesnt seem like there would be any difference.  Steel and aluminum are both highly conductive

Anodised  aluminium is non-conductive.

Jim Titt wrote: Anodised  aluminium is non-conductive.

what if that anodized coating wears away...

bttrrtRock Charles wrote:

what if that anodized coating wears away...

Wow, that's a great closing of the circle for this thread. It really should end with the snake eating its own tail.

Jim Titt wrote: Anodised  aluminium is non-conductive.

I actually wasnt thinking of anodized aluminum (I started climbing before they started anodizing most carabiners and non-anodized aluminum is about twice as conductive as steel).  But it doesn't last very long on the rope bearing surfaces for climbers who climb frequently or after a couple of rappels in Red Rocks.  

rockklimber wrote:

I actually wasnt thinking of anodized aluminum (I started climbing before they started anodizing most carabiners and non-anodized aluminum is about twice as conductive as steel).  But it doesn't last very long on the rope bearing surfaces for climbers who climb frequently or after a couple of rappels in Red Rocks.  

I was more thinking about the anodising under the stainless part insulating it from the rest of the world! Or that the part you touch is still anodised so you don´t get a shock.

I come from the generation with steel karabiners (and steel fig 8 descender) and have obviously been through all the various changes and can´t say I´ve ever noticed anything related to static electricity happening. A brief look at the triboelectric series tells us that both nylon and aluminium are positive and steel is considered neutral so any effect should be small but the tables aren´t very precise and don´t include stainless anyway. However in the Journal of Cosmetic Chemists you can find tests of human hair against aluminium, steel and stainless steel, unfortunately the order of which has the highest potential (most charged) changes depending on which way the metal is rubbed along the hair (root to tip or vice versa) so it´s anyone´s guess  

rockklimber wrote:

Interesting.  Doesnt seem like there would be any difference.  Steel and aluminum are both highly conductive

I have a full metal autolocker i use when rope lead soloing and it zaps me on every rap. On a side note I have a titanium femur rod and titanium screws /plates througout my legs. Not sure if that's why or not?!

I’ve been zapped by my aluminum biners (anodized) but it doesnt happen all the time.  I’ll have to start paying more attention to when it happens.  I suspect its usually in dry climates.

rockklimber wrote: I’ve been zapped by my aluminum biners (anodized) but it doesnt happen all the time.  I’ll have to start paying more attention to when it happens.  I susoect its usually in dry climates.  

No problem with that, just enjoy the weather knowing you're using it...I tihnk it was Conrad Anker that said..."Gear is like food, if you're not burning through it, you're not using it"

Why not use a pulley or just a biener with a built in pulley? I know Petzl and dmm makes them

Corey Stavrakis wrote: Why not use a pulley or just a biener with a built in pulley? I know Petzl and dmm makes them

the dmm revolver isn't made to run under a heavy load, is intended more as a redirect assist, IIRC. What's the load rating on the pulley vs a standard biner? Might have something to do with that answer...

Christian Hesch wrote:

the dmm revolver isn't made to run under a heavy load, is intended more as a redirect assist, IIRC. What's the load rating on the pulley vs a standard biner? Might have something to do with that answer...

If your can put a 2500lb load on a pulley and snap it while top roping idk what your doing wrong. I always run a backup draw clipped to anchor and through the rope anyways. All people have their own systems though 

Corey Stavrakis wrote: Why not use a pulley or just a biener with a built in pulley? I know Petzl and dmm makes them

You don't use a pulley (of any sort) for TR.

Gunkiemike wrote:

You don't use a pulley (of any sort) for TR.

I guess I was taught wrong then