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Switzerland Ice Guidebooks

Original Post
Jon E · · Longmont, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 96

I will be in Switzerland for a conference in Feb and am looking to spend a weekend doing some ice climbing. Does anyone have recommendations for guidebooks, or ways to narrow in on a couple of classic, moderately accessible, lines?

Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 1,846

Where in Switzerland will you be? Depending on location, check out two publications from the Swiss Alpine Club:

Hot Ice Ost: https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/shop/buecher/klettern/detail/d/7899/Hot%2BIce%2B-%2BOst/19/
Hot Ice West: https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/shop/buecher/klettern/detail/d/7900/Hot%2BIce%2B-%2BWest/20/

Jon E · · Longmont, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 96

The conference is at the Paul Scherrer Institute. I was expecting to have to travel a little ways from there to reach the ice. Ideally I could just focus on one area and stay there. It seems like I could pick either book and just go with that. Is there one side of the country that has easier access than the other?

Dave Cramer · · Greenfield, MA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 7

Marco Romelli's Ice Routes in the Alps is nice, and available in an English-language edition. It does focus more on alpine ice... ideamontagna.it/librimontag…;c=all

Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 1,846
Jon E. wrote:  Is there one side of the country that has easier access than the other?

I think the western side is easier (near interlaken, Uri) than the east (Graubunden and Glarus). Ticino might be too warm to expect good ice but I have no idea - not really an ice climber.


You can also post on kletterportal.ch and see what Swiss ice climbers think. People look for climbing partners and get beta there all the time. Mostly people post in German or Swiss German, but I've had great responses posting in English (and it expectations with partners that I don't speak German too well).
Jon E · · Longmont, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 96
Mark P. wrote:

I think the western side is easier (near interlaken, Uri) than the east (Graubunden and Glarus). Ticino might be too warm to expect good ice but I have no idea - not really an ice climber.


You can also post on kletterportal.ch and see what Swiss ice climbers think. People look for climbing partners and get beta there all the time. Mostly people post in German or Swiss German, but I've had great responses posting in English (and it expectations with partners that I don't speak German too well).
Awesome, thanks for the info!

I posted on kletterportal.ch. I didn't see an option for shipping Hot Ice to the states so I sent them an inquiry about that as well.
Jon E · · Longmont, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 96

I wanted to follow up for those interested. A number of my attempts to get beta were unsuccessful, however while I was over there someone turned me on to this website https://www.camptocamp.org/topoguide which was super helpful.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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