Hands or feet?
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I seem to be at a standstill in my routes. I am currently gym climbing in an effort to improve for some outdoor trad and sport. I'm relatively new to climbing, only about 6 months of experience, and have progressed from 5.7s to 5.9s in my gym in the first month but am stuck at 5.9 since. I've heard from some of the locals at my gym that our routes are sandbagged a little and should actually be rated one or two grades higher than they are but me being green as cut grass I couldn't tell you what they should be. Ive never had a problem with my grip in the past, 10 years heavy judo and brazillian jiujitsu experience as well as motocross and construction work for my whole life, nor have I had problems with it climbing up until 5.9 or 5.10. I am inclined to blame my grips but I already do a ton of grip training so I don't really see room for more. I did notice however on recent routes that my toes and feet are starting to burn out and I spend a lot of time on the wall resting my feet and subsequentally my hands burn out. Legs are good its literally just my feet and toes. Is this a thing? Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a training solution other than just climb more? Am I making excuses and I just need to admit I have a weak grip? |
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Are your shoes sized right? You don't need 2 sizes down in a gym. I've never heard of resting your feet, so I would start there. |
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Brad Johnson wrote: Are your shoes sized right? You don't need 2 sizes down in a gym. I've never heard of resting your feet, so I would start there. They're tight but not 2 sizes down. My toes curl a bit but they're not normally painful just wearing them while i belay. I have no problems keeping them on the whole time I'm there. So I don't think so? |
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Given your climbing experience, it's likely you're relying heavily on strength over technique. In which case, pay special attention to how more experienced people are climbing and ask them for their feedback on how to make particular moves that might be stopping you - in particular pay attention where their center is in relation to the holds (3 dimensionally - how far from the wall as well as up/down - left/right), and how they'll flag/backstep, press, etc to move efficiently. Also, some basic hangboarding work can help if it is a strength thing. Metolius has a simple 10 minute hanboarding sequence on their website to get you started... https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_guide_10_min.html |
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Larry S wrote: Given your climbing experience, it's likely you're relying heavily on strength over technique. In which case, pay special attention to how more experienced people are climbing and ask them for their feedback on how to make particular moves that might be stopping you - in particular pay attention where their center is in relation to the holds (3 dimensionally - how far from the wall as well as up/down - left/right), and how they'll flag/backstep, press, etc to move efficiently. Also, some basic hangboarding work can help if it is a strength thing. Metolius has a simple 10 minute hanboarding sequence on their website to get you started... https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_guide_10_min.html I honestly do feel like I am just muscling my way through the routes I fail on. And I have sent 9+ and 10s with good beta from other climbers. |
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Go to the bouldering area at your gym for a month then go back and try the .9s and .10s |
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What happens when you fall? Do your feet slip off? ...then look to improving footwork |
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Anthony McGlynn wrote: The beta may be good but not using it correctly will force you to muscle your way through. For example, you may be putting your foot where it belongs but are you using the correct part of your foot? Are you climbing the wall like Spider-Man or are you orienting your hips properly? Take a technique class if you can before bad habits become cemented. |
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1) Finger strength will always be your weakness, but it isn’t stopping you from climbing 5.9. |
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Plateaus are part of the learning process. If you're plateaued at 5.9, spend lots of time on 5.9s, trying to move as smoothly and efficiently as possible. Having to rest your feet is unusual, most people overuse their upper body. It sounds like you're using your feet more than the average beginner, which is a good thing. Based on your description of yourself, I seriously doubt that you have a weak grip, and climbing more sounds like a pretty good training program to me. |
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Kelley Gilleran wrote: Go to the bouldering area at your gym for a month then go back and try the .9s and .10s I was considering this. My brother really likes to boulder but I really like top roping.. I'll just have to spend some time over there. Thanks! |
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Trying boulder problems at your limit will give you no choice but to develop technique. Footwork, body placement, and core strength are key. |
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Anthony McGlynn wrote: I seem to be at a standstill in my routes. I am currently gym climbing in an effort to improve for some outdoor trad and sport. I'm relatively new to climbing, only about 6 months of experience, and have progressed from 5.7s to 5.9s in my gym in the first month but am stuck at 5.9 since. I've heard from some of the locals at my gym that our routes are sandbagged a little and should actually be rated one or two grades higher than they are but me being green as cut grass I couldn't tell you what they should be. Ive never had a problem with my grip in the past, 10 years heavy judo and brazillian jiujitsu experience as well as motocross and construction work for my whole life, nor have I had problems with it climbing up until 5.9 or 5.10. I am inclined to blame my grips but I already do a ton of grip training so I don't really see room for more. I did notice however on recent routes that my toes and feet are starting to burn out and I spend a lot of time on the wall resting my feet and subsequentally my hands burn out. Legs are good its literally just my feet and toes. Is this a thing? Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a training solution other than just climb more? Am I making excuses and I just need to admit I have a weak grip? Do you go to Rockville in Trenton? |
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what shoes are you wearing? are they your first pair? |
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Its not the shoes |
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heavier climbers benefit from having stiffer shoes, at least until their foot tendons and muscles are up to snuff. (2+ years of climbing) |
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cheap shoes are soft? that's total nonsense ;) |
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are you saying those shoes are stiffer? if you are...great, someone could buy a set of stiffer shoes for a good price. Industry wide, the sub $100 dollar shoes are super soft...of course there are exceptions...just like with everything in life having realistic expectations is required... |
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Industry wide? lol |
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Boulder more like others have said. But really, you've only been climbing 6 months so what do you expect? You said you've done other hobbies for 10 years, were you an expert or even intermediate at those within the first 6 months of taking on those hobbies/sports? |
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J Squared wrote: Industry wide? lolLOL @ you! Did you measure it with like a 1-10 scale or a percentage of stiffness or something? Come up with a detailed spreadsheet? How did you test the stiffness? Some sort of calibrated machine? what is your criteria for "stiff"? |