Moon board or similar beneficial for trad?
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So I cancelled my gym membership about a year ago, and while I've never been a very strong climber, I have noticed a fairly significant decrease in my free climbing ability. I climb almost exclusively trad, and a lot of aid, but I've been resorting to aid more and more. I was ice climbing today and was really feeling much weaker than last season and it was really disapointing. My question is if people have had success translating strength gians from a moon board specifically to crack climbing ability? If the moon board program isn't effective, is there a similar system that is? |
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The distinction between "trad" and "sport" is overrated. Top rock climbers are increasingly able to climb hard climbs regardless of the style of movement and protection schema. |
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Question for OP: what grades are you climbing or aspiring to climb? The moonboard works great for the 5.12 and up crowd, but would likely be a bit too steep and difficult to be accessible to a 5.9 trad climber. Bouldering on plastic is still massively useful to someone at that level, but the moon board may not be the best medium for it; a 25 degree woody set densely with a large variety of holds may be a better choice, depending on your level and needs. |
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It seems that the money that would be needed to build your own moonboard at home could pay for a lot of months of gym membership? |
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Thanks all JCM wrote: Question for OP: what grades are you climbing or aspiring to climb? The moonboard works great for the 5.12 and up crowd, but would likely be a bit too steep and difficult to be accessible to a 5.9 trad climber. Bouldering on plastic is still massively useful to someone at that level, but the moon board may not be the best medium for it; a 25 degree woody set densely with a large variety of holds may be a better choice, depending on your level and needs. Honestly, I'd just like to be able to confidently lead any 5.10 and send 11's. Right now I can make the occasional 5.9/10 move, but wouldn't be able to lead a 5.10 clean. You make a good point, I'm probably not strong enough to make good use of the moon board. What I like about it is the structure, training programs, and community around it. I know, you can get this all at the gym, but I'm just not fond of the place (only 1 option where I'm at). Maybe I just need some good resources on home woodys and training exercises for the everyman? |
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- Strength training (weight or TrX) for strength not bulk |
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Robert Rowsam wrote: Thanks all A moonboard would be too advanced for you at this time. If you do not have access to a good gym, then a decent home wall would be very useful. Regarding having a gym you don’t like: you don’t have to love your gym for it to be useful. Even a really mediocre gym can be used successfully to improve your climbing; you just need to be more proactive about learning how to best use the resources available there.To do this you have to remember to approach the gym as a training space, not a climbing area. Climbing should be fun and inspiring; training doesn’t have to be. It just has to work. If the bouldering setting sucks at your gym, make up your own problems on the system board or spray wall or just on the regular bouldering walls. If there isn’t a good space for endurance training, do foot on intervals on the campus board. If the culture/scene sucks, go at off hours and avoid talking to the annoying employees. All of these fixes are a nuisance,but are worth it if your main goal in the gym is to improve as a climber. I was a member for several years at gym with all these issues, a gym I found to be quite annoying, yet worked around those issues and continued to improve as a climber. Fortunately that gym eventually added some improved training space, which was nice. What specific complaints do you have about your gym? |
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JCM wrote:
What specific complaints do you have about your gym?I think I understand what you're trying to say, and I appreciate your help and advice, but there has been enough complaining about the gym here. I'd rather not turn this into a gym vs woody thing. Maybe I should have posed my question differently. Let's just assume I've made up my mind on wanting to build a woody or systems board of some type. My goal is to be a stronger climber, able to float up 5.10, by training on it a few days a week (let's also say I throw in some mild general strength and conditioning work too). How can I use a woody to help accomplish this goal? Is there a standardized system similar to the moon/tension board that a v2 climber can utilize to improve at home, or is a more independently researched program the best way to go? Thanks! |
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Is there some standardized moon board training system that I’ve never heard of? |
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This isn't supposed to be confrontational, but real |
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Robert Rowsam wrote: JCM wrote: How can I use a woody to help accomplish this goal? Is there a standardized system similar to the moon/tension board that a v2 climber can utilize to improve at home, or is a more independently researched program the best way to go? You seem to be misunderstanding what the Moon Board and Tension Board offer. They are not training plans; they are climbing walls with boulder problems. They do not tell you how to use these boulder problems to make yourself a better climber. It isn't too much different on a home wall, except there you also have to make up the boulder problems. This is just one extra step, though, and setting the problems is the easy part. Figuring out how to use those problems to improve your climbing is the harder part. And remaining disciplined and sticking with a program is the hardest part (and is where most people fail). If you need a training plan, buy any one of the usual training books (links below) and follow the reccomendations it provides. A home wall, a hangboard, an a couple of free weights will give you all the tools you need to follow there plans.https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbers-Training-Manual/dp/0989515613 https://www.amazon.com/Logical-Progression-Periodization-Year-Round-Performance/dp/1544119534 https://www.amazon.com/Training-Climbing-Definitive-Improving-Performance/dp/1493017616/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7RGNED8XWG3GVHR6W53E https://www.amazon.com/Self-Coached-Climber-Movement-Training-Performance/dp/0811733394 In terms of building a home wall, my suggestion at your level is to build as large a 25 degree indoor wall as your garage/shed/etc allows, mount a hangboard somewhere nearby, and fill the wall with as many holds as you can afford. Put holds up first, then make up problems during you climbing sessions. For endurance training, marking a 25-30 move circuit is a good idea. |
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I'm sorry if I came off as defensive. I've been climbing for a while and like to think I get out quite a bit, and have a pretty decent climbing resume, but I am pissed at myself for not having the strength and skills to match. I'm not fat and eat pretty well. Looking at the replies, I'm getting that I need to just go back to the basics. Hit the gym, push myself to free more shit, re-develop my lead head, and just try harder. |
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I wouldn't skip the steep stuff. Kinda like you, I don't have many outside goals that are very steep, but training on steep walls in the gym gets ya strong. Magical feeling to latch onto a hold you used to be timid on, and have it feel bomber. |
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The Moonboard will definitely make your hands stronger but I am not sure how it would help improve your crack climbing skill/technique. If it were me and assuming there aren't significant space restraints, I would construct a 40° 4x12 wall and use 2x4s of varying lengths to simulate a crack. Without getting into great detail I would probably use grip-tape for the inside contact point and would also consider getting different kinds of climbing holds to put on the inside to mimic the varying surface of rock. You could try equipping the 2x4s with t-nuts but I think it would be easier if screw-on style holds/foot chips were used. Additionally, you could also use different boards such as 2x6, 2x8 etc to alter the depth. Best of luck! |