Training for Steck-Salathe
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I am planning on climbing the Steck-Salathe but am scared of Yosemite given what I have heard about the difficulty level. I've climbed a bit in Zion and RR and live close enough to both to visit and train. Are there any suggestions regarding training that will help me be well prepared for this particular route? I have almost no experience on granite which may be a starting place. Thanks ! |
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I’m just curious. What appeals to you about Steck-Salathe for your first Yosemite trip? I haven’t done it so I can’t give you any training advice. It is on my list. |
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I'm not an aid climber so that rules out alot of things that might be otherwise cool to do. The history of the route is part of the draw - also I'm quite a Salathe fan in general. |
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steck salathe as your first granite, first yosemite route might be a bit ambitious? Not sure how hard you climb. Perhaps try some of the easier yosemite wide routes before jumping on steck? |
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Just climb exclusively on routes named for any two legendary old dads. By the time the S-S rolls around, you'll be fine. |
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my guess is that the most applicable training you could do would be to sleep outside in a t-shirt and jeans every night. hangboarding isn't gonna be good training for a forced bivy... |
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Climb NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral first, if you cruise it with plenty of day light left, then maybe your ready for some Steck-Salathe. Hope you like chimneys, squeezes and 3 & 4 inch cracks. |
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Lots of good advice - and warnings. Thanks! |
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You don't even need crags nearby to train: |
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Do lots of manual labor all day long. Then, get a headlamp and do manual labor all night long. Make sure that you have insufficient food and water for the level of exertion. |
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As mentioned above, since you are close, do Epinephrine first and it should feel casual. The start of the S-S is not obvious, so hike up there the day before and find it. Don't underestimate the descent, it is not trivial. It's a memorable route, have fun. |
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I feel like Epinephrine is one of the most memorable and enjoyable climbs I’ve ever done. I’ve always had the impression that Steck-Salathe is a sufferfest Yosemite Valley rite of passage. From those with experiences with both, are they that similar? |
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IMO they are not that similar. Epinephrine is much easier, devolving into garden-variety crimp cruising after the 500' (?) of fun chimneys. The S-S is hard off the ground, hard in the middle and by the time it's not hard, you're pretty close to the top. Epinephrine climbs like a Grade III+, comfortably attainable in daylight; lots of folks use a headlamp on the Sentinel. The NE Buttress advice is standard wisdom- if that goes well, jump on the Steck. |
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Nate Nate wrote: I feel like Epinephrine is one of the most memorable and enjoyable climbs I’ve ever done. I’ve always had the impression that Steck-Salathe is a sufferfest Yosemite Valley rite of passage. From those with experiences with both, are they that similar? EPI, is pretty casual in comparison to the SS and can be climbed very quickly with mostly face climbing after the 2 chimney pitches. SS has more physical climbing and the nature of the climbing os just much slower. For me on sighting the Chouinard-Herbert on the Sentinel climbed much faster than on sighting the SS even though it has much harder climbing. |
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The chimney pitches on SS by themselves are much harder than Epi. |
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Dave Oakden wrote: I'm not an aid climber so that rules out alot of things that might be otherwise cool to do. The history of the route is part of the draw - also I'm quite a Salathe fan in general. There are many, many historic and high quality long moderate free climbs to choose from in Yosemite, and almost any of them would be a better starting point than Steck Salathe. Go climb some of the fun, happy routes like Braille Book, Serenity/Sons, East Buttress of Middle, East Buttress El Cap, etc. These will give you a good sense of Yosemite long routes, but are way more approachable than Steck Salathe. If you are still psyched on Steck Salathe after working through the more inviting options, next step is to do some routes on the Yosemite single pitch OW circuit to dial in your wide technique. Then go do Steck Salathe. |
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I did the Steck-Salathe in 2011, I think, after training on wide cracks for about three years, and building a resume of many other routes climbed in Yosemite and other locations. I echo other posters comments that there are other routes more approachable, and should be done prior to the SS. |
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slim wrote: my guess is that the most applicable training you could do would be to sleep outside in a t-shirt and jeans every night. hangboarding isn't gonna be good training for a forced bivy... Don't forget to eat dates.. bring lots of dates and little water |
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Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences and for all of the excellent training wisdom. Also thanks to some for the humor. I'll post a TR at some point down the road. |
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I've done it twice. First time was a bit epic, there may have been a few tears. On sight sure, only because I dropped the only thing big enough to hang on. |
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have plenty of advil and or weed ready for the next day. |