Removing drop-in bolts without power tools?

Would like to remove these ugly sleeves so I can patch the holes cleanly, but I can’t figure out how to get these things out . Ive been hesitant to replace some of the old drop ins at my local crag because of the mess they leave behind but I would like to learn how in order to leave as little trace as possible ..
 ps new bolt was installed next to the one pictured.

There are puller designs you can look up here and Supertopo that you could modify to pull it or you could just hammer set it recessed a bit and fill it with stick epoxy

It wouldn’t budge when I tried to hammer it in. And I do have patching epoxy (instaCrete) which works well but I don’t wanna patch it if it’s sticking out so much if I can help it

Hurleys are nice and work well.   Most LCO (Local Climbing Organizations) have them.

Thanks folks

Not a 5piece but that looks like a handy tool for removing 5piece sleeves.
Thanks for the ideas .

Redneck core drill: drill around it with a smaller bit to weaken it.  Screw the hanger back on and funk it out.  It'll be a bigger hole, but now you can patch it flush...

I've heard of pulling tools working nicely. 

If you can get your hands on a Hurley Jr tool (there seems to be a bunch floating around nowadays) and a short bit of 3/8" rod (to connect the sleeve to the puller) it should be removable if the rock isn't too ridiculously hard.

I don't think what you have is a drop-in bolt.  Here is a video on how to install a drop-in bolt so you might be able to reverse engineer a way to get it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mcwX70dxGw

I think what you have there, given the style of the hanger, is a self-drive bolt.

https://www.industrialhardware.com/skin1/pages/en/pdf/SelfDrillAnchor.pdf

The two types of bolts are similar in design.  Somehow you need to figure out a way to destroy the integrity of the pin inside the sleeve so you can pull out the bolt without destroying the rock around it.

Just out of curiosity, what kind of rock are you dealing with?

Somewhere I read a suggestion to try inserting a couple ball bearings, small enough for a loose clearance fit, then screw in a 3/8" bolt. Keep cranking on it, and hope that the bearings push out the cone with enough force to overcome the friction of the sleeve against the rock before anything binds up or breaks. I have not tried this method yet.

Post up if you have any success. 

I think you’re right Bruce , it may actually be a self drive .thanks for those resources.

I tried the ball bearing technique on the one pictured but just snapped the tool .
It’s hard granite .

Might want to look at Gary Ballard’s removal method on pages 27-28 of the document linked below. No power tools required. To everyone saying “use a Hurley Jr”, that doesn’t work with drop-ins and self drills

http://texasmountaineers.com/docs/bolt_removal_process.pdf

Drew Nevius wrote:To everyone saying “use a Hurley Jr”, that doesn’t work with drop-ins and self drills

I can assure you that it does. The CCC has removed a ton of drop-ins, using the very technique I mentioned, at Hidden Valley, VA. May not work in every rock type but it certainly works in some.

nbrown wrote:

I can assure you that it does. The CCC has removed a ton of drop-ins, using the very technique I mentioned, at Hidden Valley, VA. May not work in every rock type but it certainly works in some.

Interesting. I was attempting this in hard limestone. I could imagine that it would work more easily in softer stone. Were you drilling out the cone first, or just removing the bolt/hanger then using the Hurley with the draw stud?

Just remove the bolt and hanger, screw in the 3/8 rod (I just used one made from a sawed-off 3/8 wedge bolt), then yank. That rock is highly variable but much of it is hard sandstone.

It really will be helpful to distinguish between selfdrives and drop in. They a bit similar but very different. It the sleeve is sticking out like pictured it with most certainly be a hand drilled self drive. To use a Hurley or a much more powerful acme thread "do dad" you have to adapt to the thread of the self drive sleeve. They are typically 5/16", 8mm, 3/8, or 10mm. Penetrating oil is very helpful. I find the 8mm exasperating because some of them have very small diameter cones. That means you came only use a small diameter ball bearing

Timothy that’s helpful info, thank you.