dave rosen wrote: Hangboarding will improve muscular strength. A lot of technique is involved in learning to hang from slopers, though, so practicing on a system wall or certain route types will help. . . .simply hangboarding consistently on edges . . .
Yes - Excellent (and not "contradictory").
Sloper technique is about
(1) body position - (with long legs + arms often disadvantageous) - (why slopers are so important for competition).
(2) smooth motion; and
(3) my latest theory about the physics is that on difficult slopers a key strategy is to focus the fingers on a
small area of contact with the hold -- exactly the most
favorable small area on the larger hold. Not to go for a large contact area (like using the palm). So need to get good at finding that small best contact area (and perhaps getting creative about "most favorable" in the context of different possible body + leg configurations).
Focusing downward pressure on a small area but not immediately over an edge is basically _crimping_ -- which will require lots of good-old-fashioned finger strength. Especially if you're going to make a
move off that sloper, not just hang while re-arranging your feet.
So training finger strength on a fingerboard should help: Especially the "non-closed" crimp grip (without folding your thumb over your forefinger).
Hanging off larger rounded holds on a hangboard is not likely to help with tricky slopers in real climbing situations (according to my theory) - (but might be useful for other purposes).
Another thing to help with slopers is "plié" stretching of hip-abduction (to enable a more favorable body position).
Ken