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Mammut Smart 2.0 vs BD ATC Pilot

Original Post
Tyler Newcomb · · New York, New York | Boston · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 81

I'm fortunate to have the ability to test many types of climbing gear, and I recently tried both the Mammut Smart 2.0 (as well as the original) with and without the Smarter attachment, and the Black Diamond ATC Pilot.

Mammut Smart 2.0


Black Diamond ATC Pilot
Initial Impression
The Smart is a sleeker device, it looks a lot nicer, and it isn't shaped as weird. It feels well built and is lightweight. The BD looked a little odd, feels cheaper (due likely to the plastic), and doesn't handle as well.

Set up and use
Setting up the devices is exactly the same, with the rope going through just as you would an ATC with grooves. Belaying is normal for both, but the BD definitely has more friction pulling the rope through.

Lead Belay
Both devices are a bit difficult to lead belay with the first time, but get more intuitive with use. The Smart feeds better and doesn't lock up even when in the "released" position, likely due to the leverage the longer handle gets. Both could be used dangerously incorrectly (just like a grigri) by holding the thumb on the loop and pulling while not keeping the dominant hand wrapped around the rope in case you need to catch a fall.

Lock Up
Both the Pilot and the Smart lock up during a fall easily, although ground tests indicated that some downward direction on the brake strand was necessary for consistent lock up (on the 9.5 and 9.8 ropes I used). This was as simple as a finger keeping it below horizontal on both devices.

As previously mentioned, the Black Diamond Pilot jammed more than the Mammut Smart 2.0.

Once locked up, the Black Diamond Pilot seemed to slowly slip a bit, while the Smart 2.0 held consistently.

Lowering
Lowering on the Mammut Smart 2.0 is very smooth and intuitive. It feeds nicely and has a great range of release, so you can alter the speed. The Pilot seemed like it was an on or off release, and either locked up with minimal slip or had less friction than a standard ATC.

The Mammut's handle, while large and protruding, was favorable in lowering. I found that I was able to "search" for it a bit better, and having it farther out meant a less awkward motion for my hand and wrist than the ATC pilot. Others that were also testing noted they felt as if their hand was more vulnerable to being pinched on the Pilot, although that never happened in our testing on either device.

Price
The Mammut Smart 2.0 has an MSRP of $34.95 (USD) while the Black Diamond ATC Pilot comes in with an MSRP of $44.95. The packages come it at $44.95 for the Smart 2.0 (which comes with my favorite belay biner) while the Pilot package comes in at $64.95, with a less than favorable carabiner (in my opinion).

Conclusion
From my testing, the Mammut Smart 2.0 beats out the Black Diamond ATC Pilot in all categories except for the package size on the harness, and would be my recommended choice for any climber looking for an added layer of security in case of an injury of the belayer at a lower weight and price point than a grigri.

Feel free to ask questions or give feedback on my review, I'd love to hear what others think.
Tyler Newcomb · · New York, New York | Boston · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 81
Tianyu Yao wrote: I have the older mammut alpine smart, and had a few opportunities to try a friends pilot. Worse on all fronts as well (used with a mammut 9.8 and a Sterling 9.2 rope). Pretty much no redeaming features for the pilot that I could see. 

The old smart shape was inferior to the new one, and it didn't feed as smoothly as the 2.0, bit I still agree it's nicer than the pilot

Nathan · · Tel Aviv · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 107

Having tried out both, I definitely feel that the pilot feeds more smoothly than the smart 2.0- but the rope does slip through when weighted for the pilot.

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Nice review, it convinced me not to waste my money on the Pilot.  I use the auto bloc/lock devices to climb trees, and prefer the type doesn't slip.  The Lifeguard works with the least amount of down rope of ones I have.

I recently got the Smart 2.0 package and the carabiner that comes with it has the largest diameter of any carabiners that I have, even industrial type steel ones.  One of the close ones is the original Petzl Attaché.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

If you're not getting smooth lowering with the Pilot, I suspect you're doing it wrong. Don't lift up on the thumb hook. Push forward on the back of the device to rotate it.

Chris Ritna · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I am holding out until there is a Smart Alpine 2.0

Tyler Newcomb · · New York, New York | Boston · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 81
Chris Ritna wrote: I am holding out until there is a Smart Alpine 2.0

So am I. 2020 is what the rep claimed. 

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

Another thing I noticed using the Pilot is that it gets HOT really quickly when lowering. 

Nathan · · Tel Aviv · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 107

For what it's worth, I got to climb in the Gunks with some AMGA Rock Instructors and Rock Guides, and they now prefer the ATC Pilot as the belay device of choice to give to clients that they've just taught to belay, especially when they're going to be lead belaying said guides.

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55
adeadhead wrote: For what it's worth, I got to climb in the Gunks with some AMGA Rock Instructors and Rock Guides, and they now prefer the ATC Pilot as the belay device of choice to give to clients that they've just taught to belay, especially when they're going to be lead belaying said guides.

It's very likely their choice is based on BD aggressively promoting and discounting the Pilot for use by AMGA guides.

So I wouldn't take that as meaning it's "better" than the Smart, but on the other hand I can see why guides would want the Pilot in the hands of their client/belayers over an ATC (safety) or GriGri (cost & trickier to lead belay).
Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

The Smart 2.0 and Pilot are almost the same, IMO, in function. I can also see why guides would want one of them in use by an unknown and inexperienced belayer. 

Tyler Newcomb · · New York, New York | Boston · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 81

I certainly agree with that. I had a hold break shortly after I left the ground and placed my first piece, fell and hit the end of the rope. I looked down and my belayers hand was not on the rope. Thankfully she had a smart, because i would have broken a leg given the terrain and height. 

Nathan · · Tel Aviv · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 107
coldfinger wrote:

It's very likely their choice is based on BD aggressively promoting and discounting the Pilot for use by AMGA guides.

So I wouldn't take that as meaning it's "better" than the Smart, but on the other hand I can see why guides would want the Pilot in the hands of their client/belayers over an ATC (safety) or GriGri (cost & trickier to lead belay).

I'll ask if they wouldn't mind me sharing their name, but for what it's worth, they got to try out each of the current devices on the market, and the pilot was the one they chose.

Danger · · Taipei City · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 160

Ive only used the original smart and pilot but i wanted to point out that the lowering method is completely different, so if you are used to using a pilot, the smart will feel weird and vice versa.

On a smart, you lower by pushing out(or up) on the nose. On the pilot, there's not much of a nose becaues you're supposed to grab both sides of the device and tilt it. If you do it this way, the lowering is super smooth.

Having used the original smart and the pilot the pilot is wayyyy smoother and more controlled for lowering, and feeds smoother as well. but I havent tried the smart 2.0 . yet. 

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55

The Smart is much more like a Megajul in how you use it, as Danger noted. I find the Pilot to feed better and to be much more ergonomically friendly specifically because you are gripping and rotating the device vs pushing outward on a nose/wire loop.

But in the end, the important part is that you know how to use the device you choose well (I forget if it's Jim Titt, rgold, or healyje that has made really good points about knowing your device's failure modes, and that all devices have one or more failure modes).

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 178

I'm thinking about upgrading to the smart 2.0 from the original and found this thread. One benefit I see for the smart over the pilot is that you can lower (or rap a single line) with both hands on the brake side of the rope. 

SICgrips · · Charlottesville · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 146

Well there ya go....
My use of the devices in question yields results that are the exact opposite of the OP. BD better in all uses. I chock it up to subjective assessment, technique, and the rope size/model.

Chris Jones · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined May 2018 · Points: 200

The Smart 2.0 is my favorite lead belay device.  Feeds slack smooth as silk and locks down quick and firm when you need it. I wish you could double rope rap with it.  Wondering if you could safely rap with two of them side to side on the appropriate caribiner.  No matter, the smart is light enough to carry along with a guide atc for belaying the follower off the anchor and rapping. 

SICgrips · · Charlottesville · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 146
Chris Jones wrote: The Smart 2.0 is my favorite lead belay device.  I wish you could double rope rap with it.  Wondering if you could safely rap with two of them side to side...

You need the Smart Alpine, which apparently has a new version (2.0) coming out.

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Two of Mammut’s 6mm Rap lines can fit into the Smart 2.0, probably the original also.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194
SICgrips wrote:

You need the Smart Alpine, which apparently has a new version (2.0) coming out.

You know they still make the original Smart Alpine, right, no need to wait.  I have used the Smart for single ropes and the Alpine when doing multipitch or rappelling for a while now.  It may be because I am used to it, but I like the original better than the newer version.  I find the hook release better than the tab on the 2.0.

I like the Pilot, it works just fine, but the body does get hot when lowering.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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