What’s a good shoe to compliment katana laces

I have katana laces that need resoling and am planning on getting a second pair of shoes while the resole happens.

I’m looking for suggestions on what’s a good shoe that can perform where the katana laces can’t. I mostly climb vertical to less than vertical, face, slab, and cracks. Trad and sport. I’m not sure if I should go for something less aggressive like the TC pro or something more aggressive like the kataki but I know both those are pretty similar to the katana lace.

Thoughts?

When you say: "A shoe that can perform where the Katana laces can't,"  What type of performance are you looking for? Where are the katana laces lacking that you wish to compliment?

For a good trad shoe that is comfy and performs well, I recommend the Evolv Generals. High tops, that are comfortable, smear and edge well. More aggressive toe box than the TC pro. I haven't crack climbed in them yet, but I am excited to see how they compare to the TCs. I have Katanas as well and like them for harder sport climbing, but are more aggressive than I like for an all day shoe.

Totems

James. I split time between the Katana lace and the TCs and have a couple different sizes of each. I feel like they're similar fit so easy to size and easy for me to switch between throughout the day. Honestly I spend more time in the TCs now because I enjoy the comfort and my climbing ability and grades are meh or at least not a priority. 

Keith W wrote: When you say: "A shoe that can perform where the Katana laces can't,"  What type of performance are you looking for? Where are the katana laces lacking that you wish to compliment?

I’m not too sure. To me the katanas are pretty great all around. I’d say I find it the hardest to friction climb with them on slab, as I’ll desperatly look for the tiniest edges.

the five ten quantum!!

James Barth wrote:

I’m not too sure. To me the katanas are pretty great all around. I’d say I find it the hardest to friction climb with them on slab, as I’ll desperatly look for the tiniest edges.

I like the TCs for friction. They are basically my go to shoe until shit gets hard. Haven't slabbed much in the Generals yet.

I used to love the Katana Laces but I'm over it. I would always rather have TC Pros (low angle rock, cracks, multi-pitch comfort), Miura VS (edging), or Testarossas (slippery rock, overhangs). The advantage of the Katana Laces is their versatility, but if you don't mind having a collection of more specialized shoes, you can do better.

If you like the Katanas, I wouldn’t rule out getting a second pair.  I know plenty of people who own multiple pairs because, well...if the shoe fits...

That being said, they’re definitely not great at everything, so I would say to focus on what you actually like to do.  Overhanging sport is one major weakness, but if that’s not something you plan on doing, then getting a more aggressive shoe doesn’t make a whole lot of sense.  If you do a lot of longer trad and crack climbing, the TC Pros might make sense, as I generally find I can wear them for a lot longer than Katanas, although some people like to just size up their Katanas which might work for you as well.

Miura's or TC's would serve you well. 

OutdoorGearLab keeps giving the Katanas and now Katakis rave reviews as a crack shoe. I don’t see it except on thin cracks where maybe you want something more “technical”. Arguably you’re not going to care about performance on hand cracks since you’re crushing them anyway, but that’s still a lame argument IMO. If you’re climbing a long trad multipitch you’ll encounter a variety of sizes and the katanas hurt and grind my toes when jamming while TC Pros are a joy. 

Moccasyms are also nice a nice complement to these. Even better in narrower cracks than the TC Pros IMO.

If you’re like me and learned about Katanas from OutdoorGearLab and are climbing 5.10+ trad then there are better shoes. Maybe when I’m climbing 5.12 on slightly overhanging, thin cracks I’ll change my tune about the katanas’ crack worthiness.

I agree that OGL kind of oversold them.  I remember they completely sold out in North America after that review, and when I finally got my hands on a pair I was kind of underwhelmed.  Good edging shoe, not as good as Miuras, but I wouldn’t call a shoe that stiff an “all arounder” like the Anasazi.

For complimenting the katana lace, what other wall angles/rock types do you want to focus on? If it's friction slab don't get anything with xs edge, it's too stiff and just doesn't conform to crystals nearly as well. For pure friction slab maverinks have done well for me up in the 10+ range.
For the just sub vertical, where smears are very precise dishes/crystals I really dig dragos.  Skwamas are a good choice if it's trending more toward edging crystals.

If you want to do steeper sport something with more downturn, split sole, but more support under toes is great. Testarossa, mago, or on softer end Chimera. 

I also own Katana Lace as my "quiver of one" shoe. My other shoes are TC Pro for all day trad climbing and Futura for gym/bouldering/sport climbing. In my opinion they are my bookend shoes with my Katana Lace in the middle as a generalist. 

Katana Lace is my goto shoe. I’ve never liked the Muiras or TC Pros. They just don’t fit my foot as well. I also have a pair of Katakis that i use for cracks and smearing and have recently bought another Katana LU a 1/2 size larger for longer, multipitch days. To each their own I guess.

So after reading all this I picked a pair of TC pros from REI. 1/2 size down from the katana lace and still have a flat toe fit (flat big toe, curled pinky). A bit surprising since my katanas are a slightly curled fit.

Climbed at bit at the gym and was interesting to see how routes felt easier or harder whether I was  smearing, high stepping, and edging. Not completely sold on them yet, but not a bad shoe. Going to try a crack climb another day to be confident I want to stick with these. 

For the gym you'll definitely be happier with katanas. It's when:

- you smack your ankles against the inside of cracks during an offwidth and the high top saves you from a bloody skin flap.
- you're standing on a tenuous knob placing a nut and the stiff sole gives your feet some relief.
- you're climbing all day that and it's a relief your feet aren't curled up in an aggressive downturned shoe.
- you're able to slot your toes in a thin hands sized crack comfortably without mashing your toes.
- you're able to cruise up friction slab (though not as much as a soft shoe like the mocc or mythos).

...that the TC pros will start to shine vis a vis a more aggressive shoe.

For the kind of trad I do anyway, I'm happy to have them as an option. The Anasazi lace-ups are another one from a similar mould (flat, stiff, laces) that I think are a good complement to the aggressive downturned shoes folks get for the gym, sport climbing, bouldering.

You're evaluating certain performance characteristics like smearing, edging but I think for a trad shoe, certain ergonomics outshine sending performance. On an alpine 5.8 I think you'll have a better time because of the bulleted points above.

Kind of unfortunate you don't have another gym shoe - you're definitely going to miss the Katanas compared to climbing on TC pros at the gym. Hit some cracks - that should make the purchase feel better and tide you over until you get a chance to test drive them outside on a long multipitch.

You’re right the gym is the wrong place to evaluate these shoes for what I want them for. Thanks for the perspective. I’ll be outside this weekend and I’m sure they will shine.