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Post Awesome Trad Movies Here
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Dave MacLeod is the man. This is probably been posted before here but I love this video. If you haven't seen the full movie, Transitions, I highly recommend it. |
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Hope this hasn't been posted yet: |
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^^^So worthy. |
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SWEET! |
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Might not be a trad movie, but damn is it bold. |
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This is probably already posted ( I didn't read thru 49 pgs to confirm). Even so, its worth posting again. |
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this definitely qualifies |
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I love the tc pro/solution shoe combo! |
that guy named seb wrote: this definitely qualifies Yosemite Myth is overblown....:P |
that guy named seb wrote: this definitely qualifies I love Ondra's mental strength. When he falls, he yells, "It's f-ing hundred million degrees!" But in the commentary later, he says, "I think even if I had better conditions I would still definitely fall off in those [...] few last moves right at the anchor of that pitch." It's comforting to see that the mental aspects of this sport still apply to the strongest climbers. It's easy to blame outside stuff (like conditions) for our failures, but in the end those are just part of the challenge we're trying to surmount, and surmounting that challenge is the entire point. So even if our momentary emotion is to blame the challenges, we have to come back, admit we didn't have what it took to surmount the challenges, and work to get stronger. |
knowbuddy Buddy wrote: I love the tc pro/solution shoe combo! I'd love to know the exact reasoning, jamming with his tc Pro and mostly smearing with his solutions is my guess I guess its a flairing jamming lay back. |
that guy named seb wrote: this definitely qualifies I was thinking "hmm this is different than most Ondra videos... I haven't heard any screaming yet. Oh, nvm there we go!" The headwall crack looked so flaring in spots. At 2:30, was his belayer just using the rope grab to keep some easily feeding slack readily available? |
stolo wrote: I was curious about that too. I didn't know if he was hauling a small bag up or what but the available slack thing makes sense. I always enjoy Nico's films and really cool he was a part of this. Also (understandably) he got SLAMMED into the belay catching that first whipper!! |
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Holy mole Ondra is not at all afraid to run the rope out and log serious air over gear. |
I find that my tolerance for runouts increases by about 75% when I'm up on El Cap high.Wish that were true for me. When I leave a belay in an exposed position on El Cap I have to will myself into not freaking out even on the easy stuff, and then constantly check myself against trying to keep a running toprope. Bomber cam placements that I'd usually not think twice about begin to look suspect. Solid jams feel dodgy, good edges seem like they could spit my feet right off. Free head goes to shit, in short. No chance of running the rope or freeing near my normal limits, ime. What's your secret? The belay Ondra leaves there is triply terrifying to me: no stance/hanging belay, just over the lip of the Salathé roof as exposed as it comes, with insecure climbing straight off the belay. Yeeesh. |
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The famous couple Zangerl/Larcher at it again. Not a pure trad climb, but surely not a sport climb either. Quite a few bolts in the harder pitches (quite common on limestone which is hard to protect traditionally). Here is the topo, so you can see how it is protected (scroll through the pictures)
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/odyssee-the-hardest-route-on-the-eiger-north-face-by-roger-schaeli-robert-jasper-and-simon-gietl/32583?s=1 |
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Distinctly non-pro climbers, first time in Zion.
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Too much talking not enough climbing. |
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That was REALLY boring... |
