Free Solo Movie

Jaren Watson wrote: This weekend, I free soloed a route roughly 7 number grades below my limit.
It was the freest I’ve ever felt. Once I summited, high above the gumbie onlookers, wind blowing through the hair I no longer have, I spat down on the peasants below in contempt for their flatlander ways.

Climb the way you want—whatever. But don’t judge the Alex Honnolds and Jaren Watsons of the world just because you don’t understand.

I can't wait for your biopic, Jaren.

Jaren Watson wrote: This weekend, I free soloed a a cutting-edge route. I mean, it cut the edge between 4th and 5th class.

It was the freest I’ve ever felt. Once I summited, high above the gumbie onlookers, wind blowing through the hair I no longer have, I spat down on the peasants below in contempt for their flatlander ways.

Climb the way you want—whatever. But don’t judge the Alex Honnolds and Jaren Watsons of the world just because you don’t understand.

Ah geez, Jaren, you spitting off the escalator at the mall again?

You know, all this is well and good, and everybody has their opinion, but what I really want to know is who was the guy in the unicorn pajamas?

Mark Hudon wrote: You know, all this is well and good, and everybody has their opinion, but what I really want to know is who was the guy in the unicorn pajamas?

https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/the-climber-in-the-unicorn-suit 

Found it!

Jaren Watson wrote:

Neither that steep nor that tall.

Lol! You don't fool me, sir, I've seen ya climbing. I greatly enjoyed the fictional interlude, however.

Hope your gear showed up! Best, Helen

Saw "Free Solo" for the first time this past Saturday.  The general feeling I came away with is that Alex took a big risk, even for him, even for all his preparation, and got away with it.

The shots were amazing, and inspiring.  I also really loved the music which fit so well with the amazing shots of Alex on the wall.  Some of those shots were nothing short of profound.

Admittedly, I didn't expect the documentary to be so dramatic, but I see now how appropriate it way have been to present this kind of endeavor in that light.

Spencer Parkin wrote: The general feeling I came away with is that Alex took a big risk, even for him, even for all his preparation, and got away with it.

Same exact thought here.

Jaren Watson wrote:

It’s already out.

When did they do a remake of WILLARD   That show scared the shit outta me as a little kid.

Spencer Parkin wrote: Saw "Free Solo" for the first time this past Saturday.  The general feeling I came away with is that Alex took a big risk, even for him, even for all his preparation, and got away with it.

The shots were amazing, and inspiring.  I also really loved the music which fit so well with the amazing shots of Alex on the wall.  Some of those shots were nothing short of profound.

Admittedly, I didn't expect the documentary to be so dramatic, but I see now how appropriate it way have been to present this kind of endeavor in that light.

Watch the TED Talk he did about the climb. Alex thinks differently to you.

Squeak wrote:

When did they do a remake of WILLARD   That show scared the shit outta me as a little kid.

2003. And it was fantastic. 

Briggs Lazalde wrote: So how come so far in this thread that seems to have covered everything and Beyond... We have not covered the fact that when Honnold brain was scanned it was apparent that his brain does not react to fear the same way that most people do

Pretty much every climber is like that. We are conditioned to not respond to simple images the way "normal people do" because we confront fear in reality every time we go climbing. The "fear response" in the amygdala is utterly susceptible to conditioning (repeated stimulus reduces the activity). 

If you got into an MRI and they told you they were going to show you "scary" pictures I'm pretty sure your average climber would be "no big deal" about it and easily dismiss them as they are just pictures after all. Regular people aren't conditioned to being 2000' off the deck like its no biggee. In comparison the exposure on a real rock climb would utterly destroy them with fear.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Pretty much every climber is like that. We are conditioned to not respond to simple images the way "normal people do" because we confront fear in reality every time we go climbing.

If you got into an MRI and they told you they were going to show you "scary" pictures I'm pretty sure your average climber would be "no big deal" about it and easily dismiss them as they are just pictures after all. Regular people aren't conditioned to being 2000' off the deck like its no biggee. In comparison the exposure on a real rock climb would utterly destroy them with fear.

This is in line with my overall impression of the actual soloing footage, that I think Tommy Caldwell summed up pretty well with "people who really know exactly what he's doing... Are freaked out" 

I saw it with a friend who is also a climber and certain shots made us say "holy shiiiiiit" out loud, while the elderly lady next to us, while obviously glued to the screen, didn't seem to comprehend what exactly she was looking at.

To me, that was one of the more impressive things the movie pulled off. A kind of dual perspective that appealed to climbers and non climbers, for quite different reasons. 

Briggs Lazalde wrote:

True but do u think his brain responds this way only to climbing situations or overall?..I remember in a recent interview he said he looks at big waves surfers and says that's scary. I'm leaning towards he is just conditioned to not be effected by climbing related situations but it is new to me that someone can completely train the fear out of their brain....it shows that people have potential to unlock impossibilites but it does take conditioning

I’m sure it translates to other things besides climbing. From my experience, I can point to my experience driving a full size RV on the one lane roads in the Pyrenees and Alps. My wife was amazed at how calm I was. It was nothing compared to highball Boulder, free soloing and long run outs. 

Briggs Lazalde wrote:

True but do u think his brain responds this way only to climbing situations or overall?..I remember in a recent interview he said he looks at big waves surfers and says that's scary. I'm leaning towards he is just conditioned to not be effected by climbing related situations but it is new to me that someone can completely train the fear out of their brain....it shows that people have potential to unlock impossibilites but it does take conditioning

I think it has a lot to do with what Alex can, or at least perceives he can, control.  He can control the conditions by only climbing hard free solos when conditions (weather and season) are prime.  He can control his training/fitness/strength.  He can control his "comfort" on the route by practicing extensively before hand.  I think it was his recent TEDtalk where he mentioned he felt so out of place taking an alternate path on his half dome free solo and that really contributed to his "fear" that day.  

I'm very curious how he would react both emotionally and on the brain scan to Meru or some other hard alpine climbing.  Its climbing, but a lot of that is objective danger.  I'm curious to see how he looks on the upcoming Reel Rock film where he is a bit out of his element. 

Fantastic movie!  It finally made it to Wenatchee amazingly enough.

I didn't appreciate the movie's detailed footage of the moves on the boulder problem.  It pretty much ruined my onsight. 

That's two words.....:P

Anonymous wrote:

One word...Teflon Corner.

Tefloncorner

Jplotz wrote: Fantastic movie!  It finally made it to Wenatchee amazingly enough.

I didn't appreciate the movie's detailed footage of the moves on the boulder problem.  It pretty much ruined my onsight. 

Then flash it using the Ondra method (watch Reel Rock for deets).

I'm going to say it right now.  The "next big thing," Honnold says he's looking for will be to Free Solo the Nose.

Honnold will free solo the Nose, and once again blow everyone's mind. 

I think first he's first gotta free climb the nose.