Ondra on the Salathe
|
Jon Rhoderick wrote: No this is off imo, and erases some of the meaning of what people like Jim Herson and (I think?) Steph Davis (maybe? maybe not?) did. It isn't splitting hairs. Who else has sent the .13 p19? I can't find the info, best guess: *Piana and Skinner (both on top rope best guess) *Suziki? *Yuji *Herson *Davis? *Hubers? *Caldwell *Rodden? *Honnold? I'm not 100% on any of those except Herson, who has amazing TRs out there about his saga with this wall. He calls 19 the technical crux. http://www.jimherson.com/climbing/tr/salathe-free.html Worth taking the journey and reading his long long saga - so inspiring and funny as hell http://www.jimherson.com/climbing/tr.html#salathe |
|
On a similar note, it's hilarious how all the goobs on this site are nitpicking about sport versus trad versus boulder, arguing about who is better at what, and meanwhile great climbers everywhere are jumping from one discipline to another like this. |
|
BAd wrote:...I find it curious that Ondra didn't finish the route. Wouldn't it have been easier to just top out and go down the East Ledges? All those raps would be PITA. Yuji's run ten years ago is mind-blowing. Sorry, but I find Ondra pretty inspirational for my climbing, and I suck. I was also confused when I read that. On the podcast he says they jugged out on the photographers fixed lines rather than do the last few pitches. Sounds like he was cooked after three tries at the headwall crack. Fair enough. And yes, Yuji's ascent was astonishing. Some details from Clint Cummins' database:"4th FA - Yuji Hirayama, 9/97 used Alex Huber's variations. originally tried to onsight the Teflon Corner. He fell, worked it some, then bailed and flashed Huber's variation. 2 days for an almost entirely flashed ascent. flashed most pitches; only 4 falls and a little work on headwall pitches. (Not counting falls on the Teflon Corner which he ultimately did not use). onsight style; his belayers did not provide any beta on the moves. They sometimes gave him an idea on protection, but no exact beta was given on that. pinkpointed the 2 headwall pitches, instead of redpointing, to save time. no fixed ropes were used, except to provide a brief rest and rewarming on Long Ledge, before his final attempt on the 2nd Headwall pitch. time: 37:30" It's worth noting that Yuji did it over two days, and Adam was specifically trying to onsight the whole thing in a day. That's a pretty high bar. Wonder what would've happened if he'd rested overnight before trying the headwall? |
|
All you grown men spending your work hours debating the climbing merits of a young man (who easily outclimbs every single one of you and does not care about you or your opinions) makes one want to flip the wage gap right around. |
|
Jon H wrote: Ondra is the greatest climber who has ever lived, bar none. He could retire tomorrow and his accomplishments wouldn't be outshadowed for generations. Nope. There is no "greatest" who ever lived in climbing. Ever.Adam's climbing has nothing to do with your or my climbing. It is entirely a personal experience. |
|
there is or always will be someone who is faster on the draw. |
|
Kat H wrote: All you grown men spending your work hours debating the climbing merits of a young man (who easily outclimbs every single one of you and does not care about you or your opinions) makes one want to flip the wage gap right around. Really? Ondra climbing debates are the only reason you want to flip the wage gap? |
|
Kat H wrote: All you grown men spending your work hours debating the climbing merits of a young man (who easily outclimbs every single one of you and does not care about you or your opinions) makes one want to flip the wage gap right around. And yet here you are, commenting 7 pages deep on a thread with the word “Ondra” in the title. |
|
Corey Herbert wrote: Fixed it for ya. |
|
Anonymous wrote: The real issue here is grade gap. Ondra is an evil patriarchal straight white male climbing oppressor. Impossible. He upgrades everyone’s old hard climbs to represent the “new style” grading system. Sounds like a Snowflake to me. Now Huber, Güllich & Sharma Are then oppressors |
|
We were climbing the Nose while Ondra was on Salathe, I thought we heard some distant Banshee screams but we chalked it up to our imagination until coming back down to find out he was trying to onsight Salathe. |
|
NO one cares about the the 5.14 Meltdown FA ...cause it was done by a girl. Now that a man has repeated it ... we can talk about it again, jk ... |
|
Beth Rodden's accomplisments as a whole (and individualy) are so amazing. People like this would enter into a discussion of 'best rock climber.' If Meltdown was FA'd by a XY, it would probably be upgraded by now! The Wide Boyz played on it (for a shor time) and I think it was so far above them that they walked away. TCpro couldn't send it. |
|
And this thread is about to come unhinged..... |
|
Post by Adam - insta-post It was such a honour to meet Alan Watts yesterday. He is a pioneer of sport climbing in US who put up the first sport (bolted) route in the country in 1982. Before, everything in the US was trad (placing your own protection) or aid climbing. The birth of sport climbing was difficult even in your Europe, but traditionalists were even stronger in USA. He received a lot of criticism, but later on, Smith Rock became popular and international destination for climbers all around the world and sport climbing got accepted even in US. So refreshing to see climber give credit for developing routes. |
|
amarius wrote: Post by Adam - insta-post Just because sport climbing became popular doesn't make it right. |
|
Tim Lutz wrote: Trad is dead, be PROgressive bro, leave the PRO at home. |
|
climberish wrote: 3/10 |
|
master gumby wrote: you would understand if you weren't such a gumby. |
|
Ska Ggs wrote: NO one cares about the the 5.14 Meltdown FA ...cause it was done by a girl. Now that a man has repeated it ... we can talk about it again, jk ... Beth, Lynn and steph have done some awesome stuff. Most people look stronger than Ondra in a weight room. Guy is tiny and looks almost sick. (Surprised No one has trolled him on IG like Sasha)But I really don’t see anyone beating Alex Huber (5.15a sport 2004, 5.14a free solo, 8000M peaks, 5.14 Trad lines, gnarly free walls, Speed records). I never looked much into his Resume before this thread and he has the top “all around” list hands down. |