New and experienced climbers over 50, #3

I wondered at this picture for the longest time (Advanced Rock Climbing).  I think I will find a use for it this week when working from the top of some rocks.  Is this something you have used before... tethering this way?

Lori Milas wrote: I wondered at this picture for the longest time (Advanced Rock Climbing).  I think I will find a use for it this week when working from the top of some rocks.  Is this something you have used before... tethering this way?

Yup! Except mine is a prussik Purcell. This thing is also a foot loop to ascend a rope. Tie the friction hitch on a rope, and it let's you move it around. I also use one as my personal anchor, because the length can be adjusted very easily. I use cord tied in a loop, to be my backup prussik to rappel. Two foot ones, just looped onto each foot with the adjustable part, two short ones attached with biners to the belay loop, four prussik hitches, and you're off up a rope! I've said it a bazillion times, but that first thing I learned was just....magic. Soooo simple.

The photo is from when I tried top rope soloing. The yellow rope is a hank of static, available to anchor off of whatever, in this case some wonky bolted anchors right by the trail on top. All I was doing was stepping down a ledge, but it was above the cliff face, so I decided to do the whole rigged tether thing. Good practice.

Have a great time with your trip!

Best, Helen

Just back from an Old Guy Afternoon Climb at the Tunnel Crags with Constine & Kevin.  It was my first time on real rock since early July and just my second time since almost 6 years ago.  (Serious ankle.)  We did a 2-pitch 5.10 called High Exposure.  I was ponderously slow, but Jeff and Kevin were helpful and patient.  It's gonna take me a bit to re-train my eyes for spotting holds (never my strength), but at least I didn't fall.  As I mentioned to Kevin after we rapped off, it was really more about not wanting fail than about not wanting to fall.  So it was a start.  I'm on my way back.

Here's Jeff at the belay between pitches.

Me, working my way up the second pitch.

Kevin, working through the nicer section of the 5.11 next-door.  (It gets nasty & slabby a little further up.)

Thanks, guys!

Dallas R wrote:

I should finish the story.  No less than three highly respected physicians told us he had less than 6 months to live.  A friend suggested that his was an unusual case and that the American Cancer Society may have some insight.  Through them we sent his medical records to 12 different medical facilities specializing in brain tumors, a couple over seas.  Most either concurred with the diagnosis or did not respond. 2 said there may be a slight possibility, further evaluation would be necessary.  The closest was near us in Florida.  Long story shortened he is celebrating his 25th cancer free year. While traumatic, it was not a tragedy. A lot of life changing events occurred in those years, it makes what we are doing now that much more intense and rewarding.

Wow! That is amazing good news.

Old lady H wrote: Senior, you mentioned the ohm. I have followed it, from the start. Not convinced, for outside. In the gym, sure. It appears it is slightly picky about how far away the belayer stands. With broken columns, and a boulder field base, it could be a no go here. I also really like being able to move around while belaying, including anything drastic that might come up, or down, lol!. I've not had to do anything all that dramatic, yet, but being able to throw my puny body weight into getting slack out fast, is sure an option I want if my climber decking is looking likely. And? I'm not sure an ohm can be stick clipped, and yes, I do that when warranted.

Best, Helen

You can definitely stick clip an Ohm. It's basically just a fancy quickdraw that throws extra drag into the system when yanked up. I'm not sure what you mean about throwing your body weight into getting slack out so I can't speak to that.

You're correct that belayer position is important. The good news, though, is that it tends to require you to stand AWAY from the wall so that the Ohm gets yanked up by the fall and then engages. Stand directly under one and it basically just doesn't do anything. But you can stand away in any direction: to the side is fine, straight back is fine, etc. As long as there's a reasonable change of angle at the 1st bolt (the Ohm) it's going to work.

If you don't mind being tied to a ground anchor then I think tying off to a boulder or throwing a hex or cam into a ground level crack is just fine. Or you could always just tie yourself off to a keg of beer and be really popular. 

Señor Arroz wrote:

If you don't mind being tied to a ground anchor then I think tying off to a boulder or throwing a hex or cam into a ground level crack is just fine. Or you could always just tie yourself off to a keg of beer and be really popular. 

I never do this, but seems like it would be better/safer to have a lighter belayer wear a heavy backpack than to tether them to a ground anchor.

Found myself humming Richie Havens Freedom ... long drive, wide open day.   

worst anchor I have ever seen! well almost lol!

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

worst anchor I have ever seen! well almost lol!

Fun, huh! I was wondering if anyone would notice, when I first posted this. They are all the way on top, at the very start of our local cliff. Been there many decades, and, are most likely some of the first "bolts" in, to add the first sport routes on the cliff proper. The terrain stairsteps down to a big ledge, then goes vertical. Most, if not all, of our real anchors have been replaced, but a few wonky science projects remain. These are a bit of history, and it was fun to put them to use for a practice run down to the giant ledge (you can easily walk down those few feet)!

Best, Helen

Mason Stone wrote: Hey Jeff, be kind, maybe provide some constructive feedback, pretty please.

Mason, if the tether needs feedback, feel free. More than welcome! The bolts are hardware store stuff, just bolts, nuts, and chains. Right at the top, at the start of the short cliffs. Watch for them when you are up top sometime!

Best, Helen

Sam Cieply wrote:

I never do this, but seems like it would be better/safer to have a lighter belayer wear a heavy backpack than to tether them to a ground anchor.

Tell that to your lighter belayer sometime.

There's nothing inherently unsafe about tethering your belayer on a ground anchor on single pitch. After all, we're ALL tethered to a ground anchor every pitch on multi pitch. 

Mason Stone wrote: Hey Jeff, be kind, maybe provide some constructive feedback, pretty please.

I don’t even know what to say about that anchor maybe if it was under some kind of a load it easier to describe a method to improve on it otherwise it’s in discernible :(

A fixed line Tr  solo set up 

A bottom fixed line tr solo set up, the micro traction goes above the gear on the rope  The gear is to weigh the line so the Traction runs freely ps the rope above is run directly thru the chains ⛓ above at the anchor since it is not a running belay aka the rope does not move It’s all good no wearing out the anchor when I am finished I just rap off and pull the rope and walk away no gear needed above have a nice day!

Sam Cieply wrote:

I never do this, but seems like it would be better/safer to have a lighter belayer wear a heavy backpack than to tether them to a ground anchor.

I think the counterforce of the backpack on the shoulders versus the pull on the waist from the belay loop would be uncomfortable.  I think keeping the extra weight/resistance low  and on the hips and away from the spinal cord would be better.

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

A bottom fixed line tr solo set up, the micro traction goes above the gear on the rope  The gear is to weigh the line so the Traction runs freely ps the rope above is run directly thru the chains ⛓ above at the anchor since it is not a running belay aka the rope does not move It’s all good no wearing out the anchor when I am finished I just rap off and pull the rope and walk away no gear needed above have a nice day!

Cool, I gotta try this! 

You can keep the force off your belayer almost entirely just by running the ground anchor line directly to the belay loop. So the force goes through the belay loop and up the rope. The belayer just gets picked up and then stops. You can even loop the ground anchor directly into the belay carabiner inside the belay loop. Direct line of force. 

I have a friend name Anthony McLaren he’s one of these guys that thinks he’s some world-class Climber going for the seven summits but yet when I show up to Tick Rock his rope is clipped into one locker at the hard point on his anchor! What do the old guys think about this? To me it looks bad for others to see that are just starting out and sets a poor example! I said not cool to do that his reply was it’s safe and no big deal lol my reply was I won’t be climbing with you buddy! 

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

I don’t even know what to say about that anchor maybe if it was under some kind of a load it easier to describe a method to improve on it otherwise it’s in discernible :(

Well, if it was an anchor, sure, a single locker, clipped to a cord Purcell, with just a prussik knot on a single static line??? Yeah, pretty piss poor top rope anchor, lol! Fortunately it is merely a tether. The single biner would be clipped to my belay loop, and the prussik lets you mill around. I walked down a whopping six foot 'staircase' to a huge ledge. Just weighting those two cords, practicing, and seeing how the orange one did on the skinny static line. It held fine. 

To actually go over the side, I simply used my climbing rope and rappelled, extended rap and prussik backup (different cord).

The actual top rope solo anchor was on a two bolt anchor. I tied a figure eight on a byte and clipped it to the anchor with a locker, then did the same to the second anchor. Rope hanging off of both anchors, although I only was using one for the soloing. Hope that makes sense? It's what was shown in more than one source. Let me know if I was misled!

I really like your bottom anchor setup! Wish I could do that here, but no fixed anchors except at the top. I'm not anywhere near building a gear anchor, except perhaps for the light belayer we've been discussing.

Sure wish all of you were closer to Boise. Ah well.....

Best, Helen

Mason Stone wrote: Thanks Jeff, I was just wondering what your thoughts were and how you might address the situation as you have more experience than I do. Glad you presented options and that Helen could hear from you.
Best,
M

Ah! Oops, yes, thanks very much from me also, Jeff! Fact is, a great many new climbers don't have that experienced mentor to teach them. That's largely why I post these things I get up to, and endless questions, to elicite feedback. I'm well aware, as most of us are, that these posts are seen by many others, who may never be brave (or foolhardy) enough to post. 

Still wish I could climb with y'all in person!

Best, Helen