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Recent Shasta Conditions

Original Post
Gabe MountainProject · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

are people bringing crampons/ice axe on the ridge climbs?
https://www.snowcrest.net/camera/highres.php
looks pretty bare up there....
I was thinking either sergeants/green butte or hotlam bolam.
Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577

Climbing Shasta this time of year is heinous. Not recommended.  Garbage loose rock. Wait until the snow comes and do a winter ascent. 

Gabe MountainProject · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

nah the weather looks awesome:

https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Shasta/forecasts/3500

it's projected for 5 mph winds on summit day sunday.  I might not see that again for 2 years.  I've been up there in 60 mph winds before.  

Gabe MountainProject · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

I might even try something from the north side (never been on that side).  i wish they had a live cam of the north side, as i have no idea how much snow is up there now.  I've only done clear creek, avy gulch and casaval.

Gabe MountainProject · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

also if anyone knows about water conditions/streams that would be great.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577

Are you trolling?
Its not the weather that is the problem this time of year. The routes are just a big pile of rubble if there is not snow coverage.
You want to climb Shasta when there is snow coverage. The spring is really the best time.
But hey, if you want to trudge up a loose pile of crud have at it.
I don't know why you asked for beta if that's case. 

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18
https://www.instagram.com/p/BpFVho8BVLK/?tagged=mountshasta
a powder dusting may make it even more of a pain in the ass to climb unless you stick to ridges
abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 54

@Cory Brooks pretty much covered it, but I always check the climbing advisory before heading up, right now it's only 18 days out of date https://www.shastaavalanche.org/overall-climbing-conditions

09-30-18 General Conditions & Climbing Information
...climbing the Avalanche Gulch, West Face, Casaval Ridge, Sargent’s Ridge and Green Butte Ridge routes is not recommended due to increased rockfall and almost no snow remaining.

The routes on the east and north side of the mountain including Clear Creek, Hotlum Wintun and Hotlum Bolam Ridge are in the best shape for climbing at this time. Check out the Climbing tab on our homepage for route descriptions and see the Recent Observations below for current conditions on specific routes.

It's probably worth heeding their advice. I personally wait until there's enough snow for skis, but Hotlum Bolam Ridge may be the way to go right now if you're set on going. I don't know what it looks like but I would bring crampons + axe, probably the ranger station has the latest.
Gabe MountainProject · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Cory Brooks wrote: Are you trolling?
Its not the weather that is the problem this time of year. The routes are just a big pile of rubble if there is not snow coverage.
You want to climb Shasta when there is snow coverage. The spring is really the best time.
But hey, if you want to trudge up a loose pile of crud have at it.
I don't know why you asked for beta if that's case. 

not trolling.  I've been up the clear creek with zero snow coverage.  it's still fun, but way more taxing.  I can't wait till spring :-D

Gabe MountainProject · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
splitclimber wrote: https://www.instagram.com/p/BpFVho8BVLK/?tagged=mountshasta
a powder dusting may make it even more of a pain in the ass to climb unless you stick to ridges

dude this is EXACTLY what I was looking for.  thanks for posting that.  should be plenty of snow to melt at marine camp.

Matt Wells · · Healdsburg, CA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Gabe MountainProject wrote:

not trolling.  I've been up the clear creek with zero snow coverage.  it's still fun, but way more taxing.  I can't wait till spring :-D

Isn’t Clear Creek just mostly scree? That’s why it is the late season route. Totally different conditions on the other routes. 

Gabe MountainProject · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

it is mostly scree, with some 50-100 ft. of boulders at around 14k.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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