Climbing the first pitch only on a multi-pitch climb - Okay or No Way?

Having mostly climbed in single pitch areas, I wanted to find out from folks if it is considered bad etiquette to climb only the first pitch of multi-pitch climb, and then either rappel or get lowered off.  What say you?

Might be kinda douchy on a super classic with waiting parties behind you but otherwise go for it.  Plenty of mp climbs with good first pitches and pointless trash afterwards.

Make sure you know the belay has rap rings if planning this

Just be considerate of others is the key.  And It depends on the route and area.  Many routes don't have fixed rappel anchors, so those are out for this tactic.  Some have a rap anchor nearby you can get to (for example, via the GT ledge in the gunks).  It's not clear if this is your intent, but It also might be difficult to clean on rappel/lower, the gear might be under tension or out of reach.

 If it's a popular route or the anchors are on a common shared rappel line, you might be in the way of other people going both directions.  It sucks to be on multiple rappel in to run into a roadblock of a TR on the last rap anchor. Be prepared to let them rap down on your rope when no one's on it.

rules:

• don't be a dick
• freedom of the hills

Larry S wrote: Just be considerate of others is the key.  

+1

Two situations: 1) Commonly all the pitches are done, 2) Rarely are pitches after the first done because they are low quality (poor rock, poor climbing, and/or poor decent options).

#1:
If it's okay or not will be highly dependent on how much/how many you are disrupting when you are looking to climb the full route.  A lot of it has to do with what time of day you are going to do just the first pitch, and how much you block/prevent other parties looking to do the full route by just doing the first pitch.  When its early in the morning and people are trying to get started so they can get off the full route to beat weather or darkness is terrible time to try and do the first pitch, you may be ruining people's whole climbing day just so you can get in 1 pitch.  But late in the afternoon, hours after anyone doing the full route last started, go for it as it's not affecting anyone.  Does getting off the first pitch involve rapping from a nice 3-bolt anchor, with plenty of places to clip in, and raps off to the side of the route? Or does it involve oddly weighting an anchor not really meant for rapping, at a poor stance, and chucking ropes on the next party where best case is only the ropes fall on their head?Everyone is entitled to their fare share of rock, don't take more than your fair share.

Generally multi-pitch climbs are still considered 1 climb so by doing just the first pitch you are potentially blocking a lot of climbing for others that you yourself aren't using.

#2:
It's not uncommon on a multi-pitch climb where only the first, or first several pitches are done.  If just doing the first pitch is common then don't worry about not doing the following pitches.  Werk Supp in Eldo comes to mind as a great example.  First pitch is a 4-star 5.8.  Second pitch is a decent 5.10c that has an akward flare to deal with and (as I remember it) is a pain to get off of.  Most people just do the first pitch so no one bats an eye when you just do the first pitch.

Mike Slavens wrote:

+1

Two situations: 1) Commonly all the pitches are done, 2) Rarely are pitches after the first done because they are low quality (poor rock, poor climbing, and/or poor decent options).

Alternatively, there can be a significant grade difference with the second pitch (or whatever) being much harder than the first. Some examples:

Pretty In Pinkpoint, T Meadows, P1:10a, P2:12a
'Spro Dog, Skaha, P1:10b; the second pitch (or extension - it can be done in a single pitch to the upper chains) is named 'Spro Dog, 'Spro, a 12b extension

Rapping after 1 is fine with me. If my group walked up to the climb and saw you were on it, we'd quietly discuss if we should wait for you to get higher, then follow you all day, or bail for another route. If you shouted down that you were going to rap at the first belay, we'd stick around, chat w/ you, etc, partly to keep our spot in line. The only way this would piss me off if you were dicks and dropped gear/rocks, had a noob who was scared to rap, etc.

I agree with the other posters about being considerate to the other parties at the wall.  One additionally thing you could do is build a gear anchor (if possible) to run your TR, then head over to the rings to clean everything up.  This would be ideal if you have multiple people TRing the route.  If you must use the rings, make sure your anchor is clutter-free.

Unless it's a really busy route, I think what you're talking about isn't a big deal. Toproping it, totally different story.

Thanks, everyone, for your replies.  I'm not sure if I can beat Burchy in a fight, but I will try not to be douchy or inconsiderate (part of my everyday code, anyway).  

Larry S wrote: It's not clear if this is your intent, but It also might be difficult to clean on rappel/lower, the gear might be under tension or out of reach.

 If it's a popular route or the anchors are on a common shared rappel line, you might be in the way of other people going both directions.  It sucks to be on multiple rappel in to run into a roadblock of a TR on the last rap anchor. Be prepared to let them rap down on your rope when no one's on it.

These are helpful points - I will make sure to consider these possibilities before I get on there and muck it up.

stolo wrote: Make sure you know the belay has rap rings if planning this

Also a good point.  Sometimes hard to know before you get up there, though, isn't it?  

beck will wrote:

Also a good point.  Sometimes hard to know before you get up there, though, isn't it?  

The guide book or MP will likely help you know this info (or binoculars?)... Also, you can always prepare for the "worst" (ie, climbing the whole route) and instead rap after p1 if the the presence of fixed anchors allows it.

beck will wrote:

Also a good point.  Sometimes hard to know before you get up there, though, isn't it?  

I think anyone doing this should be REQUIRED to build and LEAVE BEHIND a SRENE 3 piece gear anchor (preferably three Totem cams). The next party climbing the whole route gets to clean and keep your gear. Sorry, but YGDTP (Ya Got Dues To Pay).

/s

There was a family topping the 1st pitch of After Six for at least several hours. I couldn't believe it.

Don't do it I say. You're making it look like there is a que up on the route and may also scare off some folks who are to shy or polite to ask.

If you must then go out of your way to let climbers walking by that if they were planning on doing this route they are welcome to play through 

Climbing the first pitch and bailing off a multipitch climb is a lot like climbing halfway up a couloir to ski down. I'd say it's bad etiquette, but the only way to find out is to go for it.

The only rule is to make sure the first pitch is a 5.8 on a 5.12 multi pitch climb and tick it like you did the whole thing.

brian burke wrote: rules:

• don't be a dick
• freedom of the hills

• black totem

Did somebody say black totem?

Courtesy on single pitch and multi-pitch is pretty much the same.  Key is just to talk with folks that around.  Most will be forgiving and tolerant and helpful.  Some will just be a jerk.  

One of the precepts of multi-pitch is that you are kind of committed to do the whole route.  Many multi-pitch routes do not have an elegant escape path.  Some will require leaving gear behind. We recently climbed Theatre of Shadow in COR, each pitch was really long, making it impossible to rap off of without double ropes.  Other multi-pitch designed routes we have been on wander around, they make it very difficult to lower from or TR the second, swing hurts.  Place redirects when appropriate.  

You mention your location as somewhere in Utah.  There are lots of solid climbing groups in Utah that would love to help you figure it out. 

Mike Slavens wrote:

+1

Two situations: 1) Commonly all the pitches are done, 2) Rarely are pitches after the first done because they are low quality (poor rock, poor climbing, and/or poor decent options).

#1:
If it's okay or not will be highly dependent on how much/how many you are disrupting when you are looking to climb the full route.  A lot of it has to do with what time of day you are going to do just the first pitch, and how much you block/prevent other parties looking to do the full route by just doing the first pitch.  When its early in the morning and people are trying to get started so they can get off the full route to beat weather or darkness is terrible time to try and do the first pitch, you may be ruining people's whole climbing day just so you can get in 1 pitch.  But late in the afternoon, hours after anyone doing the full route last started, go for it as it's not affecting anyone.  Does getting off the first pitch involve rapping from a nice 3-bolt anchor, with plenty of places to clip in, and raps off to the side of the route? Or does it involve oddly weighting an anchor not really meant for rapping, at a poor stance, and chucking ropes on the next party where best case is only the ropes fall on their head?Everyone is entitled to their fare share of rock, don't take more than your fair share.

Generally multi-pitch climbs are still considered 1 climb so by doing just the first pitch you are potentially blocking a lot of climbing for others that you yourself aren't using.

#2:
It's not uncommon on a multi-pitch climb where only the first, or first several pitches are done.  If just doing the first pitch is common then don't worry about not doing the following pitches.  Werk Supp in Eldo comes to mind as a great example.  First pitch is a 4-star 5.8.  Second pitch is a decent 5.10c that has an akward flare to deal with and (as I remember it) is a pain to get off of.  Most people just do the first pitch so no one bats an eye when you just do the first pitch.

Funny you mention a route on Bastille. I led the first pitch of Bastille Crack a couple months ago. The first was open, but there were something like 35 parties (*) on the remaining pitches. So I just did the first and rapped off. No one was interrupted.

*Im probably exaggerating.