New and experienced climbers over 50, #3

Lori Milas wrote: Whoa!  WHOA!  I just took a few minutes to browse around on MP and see what else is going on.  Never really took much time before, since it seems there is more than enough info to deal with right here.  Is everyone a dick out there?  Rude, unkind, sarcastic, nasty people... male and female... posturing and insulting.  
I can drop an f-bomb without a thought.  But geez.... it's HOSTILE on those threads.  I thought the climbing community was better than that.  

The climbing community, generally, is a whole lot better away from the internet than on it.  The separation and anonymity afforded by forums can bring out the worst aspects of human nature.  The goodness and the badness have been a feature since the early days of rec.climbing, and for those who want to carry on a conversation, it will usually be in the presence of at least a little background noise, making a thick skin probably a requirement for participation.

Honestly, as I've said in other places, I've found forum (mis)behavior to be helpful, because it has crystallized for me what type of person I do not want to be.

This particular thread has so far steered clear of the gratuitous nastiness that seems woven into the fabric of such forums generally.  Many of the contributors have reached a state of comfort with themselves---perhaps a byproduct of maturity---that does not require them to continually put others down.  Whether this little island of civility can continue is anyone's guess, but it is, for the time being anyway, a breath of fresh air.

Lori Milas wrote: Whoa!  WHOA!  I just took a few minutes to browse around on MP and see what else is going on.  Never really took much time before, since it seems there is more than enough info to deal with right here.  Is everyone a dick out there?  Rude, unkind, sarcastic, nasty people... male and female... posturing and insulting.  
I can drop an f-bomb without a thought.  But geez.... it's HOSTILE on those threads.  I thought the climbing community was better than that.  

Yeah I was quite astonished at the vitriol when I came to MP.  It seems that everyone is RATHER eager to label everyone else as a troll.  It almost seems to be the default :-)
Not here though, you peeps are cool...

My hunch on civility here vs. the rest of MP is that by virtue of age most of us have accomplished things and/or suffered setbacks that gave us perspective. So, our egos are less involved in climbing and talking about climbing than it sometimes seems to be for a significant fraction of the MP populace. There's a zero sum mentality to a lot of the internet, as if someone else's success had to come out of a bucket of MY success. This forum is particularly refreshing in that way. I don't know about the rest of you but I see your successes and happiness as additive to mine, not taking anything away.

Lori Milas wrote: Whoa!  WHOA!  I just took a few minutes to browse around on MP and see what else is going on.  Never really took much time before, since it seems there is more than enough info to deal with right here.  Is everyone a dick out there?  Rude, unkind, sarcastic, nasty people... male and female... posturing and insulting.  
I can drop an f-bomb without a thought.  But geez.... it's HOSTILE on those threads.  I thought the climbing community was better than that.  

LOLOL! Sweets? I know you aren't this much of an innocent, sheesh! :-D

So? Four years in, thousands of posts, flamed rather a lot, often deserved, from my first moments on here.

But guess what? Somewhere in the middle of those threads that run wildly off into the ozone? Really often, actual conversations happen. The other big surprise, which should surprise no one? These people really, REALLY care. Climbing is like that. If it matters? Truly matters, not just opinions being tossed around? These people are here in spades.

The other huge (non)surprise? They are all real people. And my friends, now. Including some of the trolliest of the trolls.

I think of it like a really great mom and pop cafe, or neighborhood bar, the sort of place people sit around half the day jawing, where everyone does indeed know your name, and much more besides.

When I climb this weekend? Quite a crowd will be figuratively standing behind me. Including you, ma'am. I am very, very aware of that, and very grateful for my community.

Re: leading in the gym? Stop dithering. Get or borrow a hunk of rope, find an auto belay with a line of bolts. Pick a route (any grade, doesn't even have to be one route) that you can reach the clips. Tie into the "lead" rope, and start climbing and clipping. Work the puppy to perfection. That last, is actually the smoothness you admire, and you are already there, girl, if you are on 10s. Set up your phone, and you can film yourself. I discovered I wiggle my butt just before launching, fairly stupid looking and useless also!

If that line has draws, it also has an anchor. When you have it nailed, have a rope gun climb it and put a rope in the anchor. Grab a second belayer. Tie in to BOTH ropes. One person gives you a lead belay, for real, the other belayer gives you a top rope belay so you can climb lead before​​​​ you are lead certified. Both belayers need to be lead belayers and know what they're doing.

Best to all! Rolling out in the predawn tomorrow. Next time I'm on here, hopefully it will be with a trip report!

Oh, and I haven't forgot about the corned beef recipe. Later!

Best, Helen

Old lady H wrote:

...Best to all! Rolling out in the predawn tomorrow. Next time I'm on here, hopefully it will be with a trip report!...

Have a great trip.  Be safe and have fun and CRUSH!!

Way to steal my post Russ..........

Lori Milas wrote:  there's a 'climbfest' coming up in J Tree... and I think I'll do it.  3-4 days with a local group out climbing full days, and 1 or 2 days with Bob.  

.  I'm ready to climb...    

Is there a place where i can view up coming events like this. I'm going to be in the USofA for a year  from December and whilst mywife is with me she is not a climber. So Ill effectively be solo, looking for people to climb with. Events like these 'climbfest' would be perfect.  

Lori Milas wrote: Whoa!  WHOA!  I just took a few minutes to browse around on MP and see what else is going on.  Never really took much time before, since it seems there is more than enough info to deal with right here.  Is everyone a dick out there?  Rude, unkind, sarcastic, nasty people... male and female... posturing and insulting.  
I can drop an f-bomb without a thought.  But geez.... it's HOSTILE on those threads.  I thought the climbing community was better than that.  

DO NOT Go over to SuperTopo.

Squeak wrote:

Is there a place where i can view up coming events like this. I'm going to be in the USofA for a year  from December and whilst mywife is with me she is not a climber. So Ill effectively be solo, looking for people to climb with. Events like these 'climbfest' would be perfect.  

We climb with a Kiwi that comes to visit on occasion.  When you come over the pond send us a note.

Just turned 60 this year and I have been lurking on this thread off and on but never posted.

Yes, kudos to all for the mature conversation! I especially like rgold’s contributions (on other threads, too) and actually started to cut and paste some of his techniques and suggestions into a word document collection such is his wisdom. Maybe he needs to put together a book? Or does he have one already? I don’t always do things exactly his way, but when he posts, I listen very carefully. (He gets the “gold star”—sic— award in my book!)

Also...re Jay Steinke’s note a few posts back where he says he started climbing at age 65 and is now 69–and getting stronger!—is a HUGE inspiration for me. As we get older I guess it is natural to wory about the ticking clock of time as it grows ever louder. I always wonder how many good years of climbing I have left and apparently I have many (OK, “many” is relative) with a bit of luck! Wish I had stuck to climbing instead of fading out of the scene in the mid-80s (took a near 30-year break, but I’m back!)

On a technique topic...Russ above suggested using the figure-8 to tie two ropes together for that long rappel you have to do. Russ, I assume you mean the “re-threaded figure-8”? If so, that’s fine, just wanted to clarify. I didn’t want folks to confuse that knot with a figure-8 tied just like a EDK but with the extra time around to make an 8. That type of figure-8 apparently can have a much higher tendency to roll than the EDK. (EDK is what I almost always use these days for joining two rappel ropes of similar diameter.) Maybe rgold can chime in here, too!? Sorry if this was brought up earlier—I haven’t read ALL the posts on all three of these threads!
Carry on, all, this is great. Onward to 1,000 posts once again...

Russ Walling wrote: Daniel:  yes the rethreaded 8, not an edk 8

The Flemish bend.

Russ Walling wrote: All the head spinning knot talk and anchor jibberish is driving me to drink... So I'll have one and post up!

Seems like there is a bunch of "what I do" stuff so here is mine with a few other thoughts...

As to the smack talk on the internet:  That is why i dislike the "virtual campfire" analogy... if we were ever at an actual campfire, lots of internet guys would be eating dinner through a straw if their keyboard rants were in person.  This thread is amazing in that respect.  Perhaps even unrivaled, especially considering some of the contributors, myself included, that are professional shit talkers on other threads and forums.  A small round of applause for all of us... {{{{{{{{{{golf clap}}}}}}}}}}}}

Russ, that's what all this talk has been about... to get you to poke your head in again, hold forth, and start drinking.   

I guess we could designate a smack-talk day when anything goes.  Mine is Tuesday... at my office it's that one day you can swear like a sailor.  Unfortunately, I'm the only one who uses it.  My Tuesday socks say "Fuck this shit!" and I wear them faithfully.  
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Helen... I hope you have a great time, take pictures, and share everything!  

As for 'innocence'... no, I'm not that innocent.  But innocence and trust are a discipline and a daily choice.  I do believe we are all learning something about 'intention' here... how an inner decision (to climb something great, for instance) transpires to happen.  Gratitude and openness are continuations of that...
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John, this stew's for you!  

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Just a little miracle to share... wonderment about this aging thing:  I went to the gym this morning, hopped on the delt fly machine... set it at the usual setting, and thought maybe the machine was broken. I had to add a lot of weights before it felt anything like a real workout.  I turned around and did the chest press... same thing.  Rolled over to the bicep machine... and had to double the weight on that.  It's been awhile since I actually used any of the weight machines there... I guess a long while! 

I've been going to the gym a long  time, but have just became burnt out with it this last year, and have been considering turning in my membership. But so interesting to see how much strength and agility I've gained from climbing.  So I wonder whether to double down on strength training, at the gym, or let nature do its work through climbing.  The good news is we do improve, get stronger, gain muscle... and balance... it DOES happen.      Measurably so. 
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Jimmy Chin posted something this morning about voting... and talked a little smack about most voters being over 65 and sort of clueless.  I took exception to that.  I hope this group, at least, puts the lie to ageism, and that we do get out and vote, and we DO know how to research current events and be leaders and inspiration to younger people.  Of all the topics I am passionate about, I put the health of this planet at the top of the list.  Jimmy's photos continually remind me of what's at stake...

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Question... this is a short wall at JTree.. EBGBs ... IF there were no bolts on the face, how would one lead this?  Is it just a solo all the way up?  I look at this and just say... whoa!  

 
Finally... (obviously random thoughts all over the place)...  I am still thinking about the 10d stemming route I couldn't finish at the gym.  Amazing how some climbs, indoors and out, live with you!  (I'm still reliving that edging/traversing climb ... so ready to do more of that.)  

I'm going to give the stemming climb a go again this weekend if I can find a partner with patience.  Ryan let me climb that route, flounder, hang, examine, hang, and try again... for a long time.  I twisted every way I could think of, and finally gave up. When I came down Ryan said "Lori... here's a clue.  It doesn't have to be right hand, left hand, right foot, left foot over and over.  It might be BOTH feet on one wall, both hands on the other wall... "

I said "Ryan... .you could have told me that BEFORE I went up there and wore myself out!".  He laughed and said, sometimes you have to go up, experience it for yourself, try everything, and then a little coaching can help.  I appreciate mentoring like that... it is a playground after all, one to learn and grow in.

Everyone have a great day. 

Keep climbing

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

Keep climbing

You know there's good climbing in the DR, right?

Lori, thought this thread might be helpful to you re managing Type 1 diabetes in the field.

That link doesn't work---looks partial: " 1%20diabetes/ "

Several climbers with type 1 diabetes posted on this thread: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/111881300/type-1-diabetic-mountaineers.

Googling "mountaineering with type 1 diabetes" brings up pages of stories and advice.  One thing clearly emerging is the utility of a continuous glucose monitor (cgm).

We made El Rito, not a good week. Water system went south.  Snow, ice, wind, rain.  Balloon Festival in Albuquerque loaded up the RV parks, no place to stay.   Ended up at Heron Lake State Park 75 miles away from El Rito.  All the logistical problems we ended up with only one day of climbing in the sport area.  Wonderful day.  We will be back to this area when we have more time and no agenda.  Here is Barbara R at the anchor of either Cobb It or Que.

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If you get a chance to stop in at the Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs the restaurant and wine bar has really good fish tacos, and the Chicken Enchilada isn't bad either.



Wish we had more time here, but we have scheduled events with the Grandkids.

Señor Arroz wrote: Lori, thought this thread might be helpful to you re managing Type 1 diabetes in the field. 

I couldn't get the link to work.

rgold wrote: That link doesn't work---looks partial: " 1%20diabetes/ "

Several climbers with type 1 diabetes posted on this thread: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/111881300/type-1-diabetic-mountaineers.

Googling "mountaineering with type 1 diabetes" brings up pages of stories and advice.  One thing clearly emerging is the utility of a continuous glucose monitor (cgm).

Yeah, that's the right thread. Sorry the link broke when I posted it and I never checked it. Original link is now fixed, too. 

Dallas R wrote: We made El Rito, not a good week. Water system went south.  Snow, ice, wind, rain.  Balloon Festival in Albuquerque loaded up the RV parks, no place to stay.   Ended up at Heron Lake State Park 75 miles away from El Rito.  All the logistical problems we ended up with only one day of climbing in the sport area.  Wonderful day.  We will be back to this area when we have more time and no agenda.  Here is Barbara R at the anchor of either Cobb It or Que.

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Sorry about all the hassles, but way to go Barb.